Vernet-les-Bains

Vernet-les-Bains is a village in the Languedoc-Roussillon region in south-west France. It is in the Pyrenées Orientales department. Some guidebooks make it sound as if its attractions were somehow in the past but it has features that make it special today as a place to stay for a week or more in a stunningly beautiful mountain area. This article also covers Corneilla-de-Conflent, Villefranche-de-Conflent, a perfectly walled village, Casteil with the Abbey of St Martin and Fillols with a beautiful Romanesque church.

Understand

Église Saint-Saturnin and surrounding buildings in Vernet

Vernet's links with Rudyard Kipling and the Entente Cordiale.

Get in

Le Petit Train Jaune

Vernet shares a station with Villefranche, easily reached from Perpignan, but, whereas Villefranche is near the station, Vernet is 5 km – a fair trek – uphill on a road so you may need a bus or taxi.

The station is also the eastern terminus of the scenic metre-gauge Ligne de Cerdagne from Latour-de-Carol, with connections from Barcelona (broad gauge) and Toulouse.

Get around

Roads are often steep, so don't assume a 3-km walk to be quick and easy.

See

• 1 Village arboretum de Vernet-les-Bains. 24 hr daily. The village takes pride in being the first 'village-arboretum' in France. There are certainly some wonderful trees and many signs describing them. Free.  
• 2 Church of Corneilla (Église Sainte-Marie de Corneilla-de-Conflent). A Romanesque church built in the 11th–12th centuries, originally as an Augustinian monastery.  
• 3 Church of Fillols (Église Saint-Félix de Fillols) (Fillols is a pleasing 5-km walk away from Vernet). A beautiful Romanesque church.  
• 4 Church of Vernet (Église Saint-Saturnin de Vernet-les-Bains). A Romanesque church with heritage from the 12th century, enlarged as it became the main church in 1710.  
• 5 Fortifications of Villefranche-de-Conflent. Fortifications built in the 11th and 12th centuries, surrounding the village. The position guarding the river Têt was strategic, and became the capital of the county in 1126.  

Do

Go to the casino if you must, but in any case don't miss the geological museum where the owner gives a most informative tour in several languages.

• There is a small zoo in Casteil that appeals to children.
• Walks range from the ascent of the 1 Pic du Canigou to easy strolls suitable for children. Unfortunately the TIC only sells the walks guide in summer, which starts by decree on June 1 – but hotels are likely to have copies that you can see at other times.
• 2 Abbey of Saint-Martin-du-Canigou (above the hamlet of Casteil, with bus connection; from there, either walk 1.6 km with an ascent of 300 m (30–60 min) or take an expensive 4x4 taxi). Monastery in the mountains built in the 11th century. Visits at scheduled times only, by guided tour in French (short written information in English is available), to take part in services (call in advance), or as a retreat (applications at least a week in advance). The community is since 1988 part of the Communauté des Béatitudesis, a "new community" in the spirit of the Second Vatican Council. Guided visit €8/6; retreat €30–35/day.  

Eat

Bistrot le Cortal. It's very small so book beforehand. Food and views to die for.

Sleep

• Mountain refuge (by Saint-Martin-du-Canigou). Unmanned refuge for 6 persons, available for single nights. 

Connect

As of Jan 2024, Vernet-les-Bains and its approach highways have 4G from Bouygues, Orange and SPR, and 5G from Free.

Go next

If you've not arrived from Perpignan, it's certainly worth a visit.