Warsaw/Western Centre

The area to the west of Warsaw/Śródmieście, consisting of the districts of Wola, Ochota and Żoliborz, contains many parts of the historic core of Warsaw, Poland. While not as densely packed with touristic points of interest as Śródmieście, it is still full of interesting places to visit and discover.

Districts

The Wola district in dark red.

Ochota on the map of Warsaw

Żoliborz highlighted in dark red.

Wola is immediately to the west of Śródmieście and blends seamlessly with it, the border between them being the Jana Pawła II Avenue.

Wola has been rapidly changing from a former industrial area into a prime business district with office buildings, and modern upscale residential highrises. Wola holds large parts of the area covered by Warsaw Ghetto during the Second World War, and many important places of remembrance can be found there. It also hold Warsaw's most important necropolis, the Powązki, and the Warsaw Rising Museum.

The word wola means "will" in Polish, referring to the fact that the royal elections (yes, Poland's noblemen used to elect their kings, they were not automatically hereditary) took place there over the vast expanses of open spaces it once encompassed.

Ochota is a district of Warsaw. The name means "willingness" or "fancy". It is a relatively small (by area), traditionally residential district. Ochota is further divided into Filtry, Rakowiec, Szczęśliwice and Stara Ochota (Old Ochota), which covers the traditional area of the district.

Żoliborz has traditionally been the intelligentsia district of Warsaw. It is further divided into Stary Żoliborz, Sady Żoliborskie and Marymont-Potok.

Get in

Wola

• Main streets parallel to Vistula: ul. Towarowa-ul. Okopowa
• Main streets perpendicular to Vistula: ul. Kasprzaka-ul. Wolska, ul. Leszno-ul. Górczewska

Ochota

• Ochota's northeastern extremity is next to the Dworzec Centralny train station. The Warszawa Zachodnia train station is also within the district.
• Local trains (SKM, Koleje Mazowieckie) will also stop at Warszawa-Reduta and Warszawa-Rakowiec on their way between the city centre and the Warsaw Chopin Airport
• Main streets parallel to Vistula: ul. Żwirki i Wigury, ul. Grójecka-al. Krakowska
• Main streets perpendicular to Vistula: ul. Wawelska-ul. Grzymały-Al. Jerozolimskie
• Trams from the city centre run down Grójecka and Filtrowa streets

Żoliborz

• Main streets parallel to Vistula: Wyb. Gdyńskie, ul. Mickiewicza-ul. Słowackiego, al. Jana Pawła II-ul. Popiełuszki
• Main streets perpendicular to Vistula: ul. Słomińskiego, Trasa Armii Krajowej

Get around

By tram

Trams run along Aleja Solidarności and Aleje Jerozolimskie (at the southern border of the district), and between them through Towarowa. Consult official tram network map for up-to-date information and tram stops:

On foot

For the areas closer to the city centre, walking is a reasonable choice and the sights along the way are worth it (especially if you are heading into Chłodna from Plac Bankowy, or walking along Grzybowska). You can even endavour to walk as far as the Warsaw Rising Museum.

Otherwise, Wola becomes a sprawling district with little interest to the tourist beyond specific points of interest. You may walk, but you would be better advised to take advantage of the public transportation.

See

Museums in Wola

• 1 The Warsaw Rising Museum (Muzeum Powstania Warszawskiego), ul. Grzybowska 79 (The entrance is on Przyokopowa, which is about two streets west of the Hilton Hotel. Trams: 20, 22, 24, 32, and 45. Buses 106, 155, and 100 will stop near the museum on request), ☏ +48 22 539 79 05, +48 22 539 79 06, fax: +48 22 539 79 24, kontakt@1944.pl. M W-F 08:00-18:00, Sa Su 10:00-18:00, closed Tu. Enormously fascinating, The Warsaw Rising Museum is a moving experience that anyone to Warsaw must visit. This museum will almost certainly not bore anyone, especially with the museum's superb use of multimedia. The museum has bilingual displays in Polish and English. The museum does a good job of explaining the perceived history of the insurgents and the Uprising in the years following the Second World War. You can also take an elevator to the rooftop to see the surroundings of Wola district. If you go on Sunday, they have chapel services at 12:30. Regular: 30 zł; Reduced rate: 25 zł. Free admission on Mondays. (updated May 2023)

• 2 Muzeum Gazownictwa (Warsaw Gasworks Museum), ul. Kasprzaka 25. 10:00-18:00, individual entry on F-Su 10:00-18:00. A museum dedicated to the history of gasworks and provision of municipal gas, aptly located in Warsaw's old gasworks. F free, 20 zł, 10 zł reduced, tickets are timed. (updated Aug 2024)
• 3 Stacja Muzeum (Station Museum, Muzeum Kolejnictwa, Railway Museum), ul. Towarowa 1 (if you're driving, follow Al. Jerozolimskie west to ul Towarowa, then turn right). The railway museum in the former Warszawa Główna (Warsaw Main) train station, a boon for railway buffs. 

Powązki Cemetery (Cmentarz Powązkowski)

• Roman Catholic Cemetery (Cmentarz Rzymskokatolicki). Contains the St Charles Borromeo Church (Kościół Św. Karola Boromeusza). Famous tombs: Jan Kiepura, Krzysztof Kieślowski, Stanisław Moniuszko, Bolesław Prus, Władysław Reymont. (updated Apr 2017)
• 4 Jewish Cemetery (Cmentarz Żydowski). Famous tombs: Estera Rachela Kamińska, Isaac Loeb Peretz, Ludwig Zamenhof (the creator of Esperanto). Also contains a symbolic monument to Janusz Korczak (he died in a concentration camp). (updated Apr 2017)
• 5 Calvinist Cemetery (Cmentarz Ewangelicko-Reformowany). Contains Halperts' Chapel (Kaplica Halpertów). Famous tombs: Wojciech Gerson, Tadeusz Stefan Jaroszewski, Emil Wedel, Szymon Bogumił Zug. (updated Apr 2017)
• 6 Lutheran Cemetery (Cmentarz Ewangelicko-Augsburski Cmentarz Ewangelicko-Reformowany). Famous tombs: Anna German, Leopold Kronenberg, Józef Simmler, Stefan Żeromski. (updated Apr 2017)
• 7 Powązki Communal Cemetery (Cmentarz Komunalny - Powązki), previously: Military Cemetery (Cmentarz Wojskowy)). Contains the Avenue of the Meritorious (Aleja Zasłużonych), as well as mass graves of the participants of the November Uprising (1830–1831), January Uprising (1863–1864), World War I (1914–1918), Polish-Bolshevik War (1920–1922), World War II (1939–1945) and Warsaw Uprising (1944). (updated Apr 2017)

In Ochota

A significant part of the district's area is used by the Warsaw Waterworks (Filtry Lindleya)

• 8 Pl. Narutowicza. The streets that radiate from here are worth seeing. (updated Apr 2017)
• 9 Filtry Lindleya (Warsaw Waterworks). Occasional tours are organized. (updated Apr 2017)

In Żoliborz

• 10 The Citadel (X Pawilon Cytadeli Warszawskiej), ul. Skazańców 25. Built during the Russian occupation in the 19th century to keep control over Warsaw. Many participants of the January Uprising, including its leader Romuald Traugutt, were executed there. (updated Apr 2017)
• Żoliborz Oficerski (ul. Krasińskiego × ul. Mickiewicza). Residential district built in the 1920s, renowned for its architecture. Some of the highest housing prices in Warsaw. (updated Apr 2017)
• St Stanislaus Kostka Church, ul. Hozjusza 1. Renowned because of the sermons of Jerzy Popiełuszko, the priest who was later assassinated by the communist regime. (updated Apr 2017)
• Church of Virgin Mary, the Queen of Poland, ul. Gdańska 8a. Has an interesting history. It was built in the 1600s for Queen Marysieńka, then was converted into a hunting residence by King August II the Strong, and turned into a chapel in 1816 and again into a church in the 20th century. (updated Apr 2017)

Do

Cinemas

• Silver Screen, ul. Górczewska 124 (CH Wola Park). 
• 1 Muranów, Ul. Gen. Andersa 1, ☏ +48 22 831 03 58.  
• Wisła, Pl. Wilsona 2, ☏ +48 22 839 23 65. 

Theatres

• Komedia, ul. Słowackiego 19a, +48 22 833 68 80
• Teatr Ochoty, ul. Reja 9, ☏ +48 22 825 85 44. 

Sports

Even in warm weather, you can go skiing in Park Szczęśliwicki

• Szczęśliwicki Park (Park Szczęśliwicki) between ul. Drawska and ul. Włodarzewska is a large green area with some lakes.
• Pole Mokotowskie
• OSiR Żoliborz (swimming pool), ul. Potocka 1, +48 22 832 46 00
• OSiR Ochota (swimming pool), ul. Rokossowska 10, ☏ +48 22 572 90 70. 
• Mera (tennis courts), ul. Bohaterów Września 6/12, ☏ +48 22 823 63 82. 
• Hala Sportowa Koło (sports hall), ul. Obozowa 60, ☏ +48 22 877 38 99. 

Buy

• Klif, ul. Okopowa 58/72. M-Sa 09:00-21:00, Su 10:00-20:00. A small shopping mall with upscale pretences close to Powązki cemetery, but not easily accessible unless you're driving or have received precise directions 
• The Arkadia shopping/entertainment complex in Śródmieście is also close to Powązki.
• 1 Centrum Handlowe Wola Park, ul. Górczewska 124 (Buses 109, 154, 171, 190, 310, 501, 507, and 523 run by Wola Park. Trams 8, 10, 26, and 46 run in the direction, but you'll need to get off at ul. Powstańców Śląskich), ☏ +48 22 533 4000. Shopping mall. (updated Nov 2018)
• 2 CH Fort Wola, Ul. Połczyńska 4, ☏ +48 22 535 04 82, biuro@fortwola.pl. M-Sa 10:00-21:00, Su 10:00-20:00. Car-centred shopping mall in a more remote part of Wola. (updated Aug 2024)
• Blue City, Al. Jerozolimskie 179. A large, but somewhat bland mall. Its major advantage against other Warsaw malls is that it is not so crowded. 
• CH Reduta, Al. Jerozolimskie 148. Shopping mall, adjacent to Blue City. Free hot-spot. 

Eat

Mid-range

• Żywiciel, pl. Inwalidów 10. Daily 09:00-23:00. 
• Jeff's, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32, ☏ +48 22 82516 50, fax: +48 22 875 39 10. American-style restaurant with the stereotypical road sign novelties posted on the wall. The food is decent, especially for a cuisine that many Polish restaurants fail miserably at cooking. Huge breakfasts are served daily till 10:00 (13:00 at the weekends) for just 10.90 zł. 
• T.G.I. Fridays, Al. Jana Pawła II 29, ☏ +48 22 653 8362, fax: +48 22 653 8363. A nice retreat for anyone wanting a restaurant experience that's a bit more American than at other restaurants. It's a tad bit pricey, though, and there are no free refills. 
• Chicago's, ul. Żelazna 41, ☏ +48 22 89 00 999. Chicago's is a Route 66-themed eatery that cooks up typical American fare. Upon first entering the restaurant you'll be greeted by no one and you'll need to impose yourself upon an inattentive staff to be able to order. Although the staff is apathetic and somewhat rude, when they are attending to customers, the kitchen is rather quick and makes basic, but good food. The bar has a fair selection of alcohol to choose from, if the bartender will even greet you. If you want more of an Americanized eatery, but demand decent service head over to T.G.I. Fridays, or, for even better service, go to the Hard Rock Cafe. 
• The Inn under the Red Hog (Oberża Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem), Zelazna 68 (Corner of Zelazna and Chlodna streets), ☏ +48 22 850 3144. 12:00-24:00. This restaurant seems as though it might cater to out of towners, given its ex-Soviet kitschy atmosphere (complete with Communist era-inspired menu), but one can usually find it populated with locals having a get-together on weekend evenings. In those days, the site of the restaurant was an inn which housed many notorious communist dignitaries and other notables. The menu itself is printed in the style of a newspaper (cheaper items under the heading "Proletariat" and higher-priced items "For Dignitaries and Bourgeoisie"). 

Splurge

• Meltemi ul. Opaczewska 43/1 (Kręgliccy). Greek.

Drink

Wine tasting

• Mielżyński, ul. Burakowska 46. 

Cafes

• Blikle, Pl. Wilsona. 

Clubs and bars

• Café Strauss Al. Jerozolimskie 45
• Filtry Cafe, ul. Niemcewicza 3. Good looking interior and tasty coffee 
• Club 70, ul. Waliców 9 (About a block from the Hotel Hyatt, on a side street off of ul. Grzybowska), ☏ +48 22 654 71 41. Club 70 is a really well done club – the music is a decent mix of 1970s and 80s music, bouncers aren't as hardcore as bouncers at other clubs, and the dedication of the management to fun clubbing makes Club 70 one of the best clubs in Warsaw. If you call Monday - Friday between 10:00-18:00, you can make reservations. Entrance ranges from free to roughly 20 zł or so. Drinks are a bit on the expensive side with 0.5 liter of beer costing 10 zł. 
• praCoVnia art club (music club pCV), ul. Popiełuszki 16 (close to Metro Marymont station), ☏ +48 22 833 44 50. Su-Th 16:00-00:00; F Sa 16:00-03:00. Bar, art gallery, live music. Beers, wines, very tasty coffee, yerba mate, WiFi internet, air condition. 
• Luzztro al. Jerozolimskie 60
• Paradise ul. Wawelska 5
• Proxima Żwirki i Wigury 99a

Sleep

You will find many more accommodation options in the neighbouring district of Śródmieście. Accommodations in Ochota are also convenient for visiting Wola.

Budget

• 1 Syrenka School Youth Hostel (Karolkowa Youth Hostel), ul. Karolkowa 53a (Buses 125 or 522 until DT Wola or trams 13, 20, 23, 24. 26, and 27 until DT Wola), ☏ +48 22 632 88 29, +48 22 632 97 44, fax: +48 22 632 97 46, recepcja@hostelkarolkowa.pl. An Hostelling International recognized hostel. Like other HI hostels in Poland there is a curfew 00:00-06:00, so don't plan on going out. Prices for a dorm bed begin at 25.20 zł for students with HI membership. 
• 2 Wilson Hostel Warszawa, Felinskiego 37 (300m from Plac Wilsona metro station), ☏ +48 22 8394081, hostel@wilsonhostel.pl. From 60 zł for bed or sleeping capsule. 
• Astur Camping, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 15/17. Prices: 20 zł for a tent, 60 zł for a camping car. (updated Apr 2017)
• Gromada Camping, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32, ☏ +48 22 825 43 91. 

Mid-range

• 3 Première Classe, ul. Towarowa 2, ☏ +48 22 624 08 00, fax: +48 22 620 26 29, warszawa@premiereclasse.com. The budget Premiere Classe is in the same building as its Groupe du Louvre sister-branded hotels, Campanile and Golden Tulip (see below). Website and booking in several languages, but not in English. rack rate - 129 zł. 
• 4 Campanile, ul. Towarowa 2, ☏ +48 22 582 72 00, fax: +48 22 582 72 01, warszawa@campanile.com. Campanile is Groupe du Louvre's two-star brand, popular with travellers on a budget. rack rate - 149 zł. 
• 5 Golden Tulip, ul. Towarowa 2, ☏ +48 22 582 75 00, fax: +48 22 582 75 01, info@goldentulipwarsawcentre.com. The former Kyriad Prestige, sharing its building with the Campanile and Premiere Classe, was rebranded to Golden Tulip as per Groupe du Louvre strategy. With three stars, it offers a fitness centre and conference rooms. rack rate - 190 zł. 
• 6 Ibis Warszawa Centrum, Al. Solidarnosci 165, ☏ +48 22 520 30 00, fax: +48 22 520 30 30. The oldest Ibis in Warsaw is in a slightly inattractive location, but reasonably close to the city centre and many attractions and easily accessible by public transport and by car. starting at 122 zł. 
• 7 Ibis Warszawa Reduta, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 16, ☏ +48 22 572 25 00, fax: +48 22 572 25 55, H7125@ACCOR.COM. A regular "red pillow" Ibis built in 2012 according to the chain's new standards. In a not very touristy location and not close to anything, but manageable with public transport and conveniently accessible by car. There are three other ibis hotels in Warsaw plus two ibis budget hotels, so make sure you do not mistake them. starting at 122 zł. 
• 8 Ibis budget Warszawa Reduta, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 16, ☏ +48 22 824 05 40. The super-simple "blue pillow" Ibis budget is next to its "red pillow" sister. It offers the absolutely bare necessities, provides no loyalty points and is only bookable via the Accor and Ibis websites (you will not find it in most directories and booking websites). starting at 100 zł. 

Splurge

• 9 Hilton Warsaw Hotel and Convention Centre, Grzybowska 63, ☏ +48 22 356 55 55, fax: +48 22 356 55 56. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Although it's in Wola, the hotel is very close to the downtown area of Warsaw. A 10- to 15-minute walk will take you to the Centralna train station. 
• 10 Westin Warsaw Hotel, Al. Jana Pawla II 21, ☏ +48 22 450 8000, fax: +48 22 450 8111, warsaw@westin.com. Another centrally located hotel, a few minutes from the Warszawa Centalna station. Rates start at €111. 
• 11 Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel, Plac Artura Zawiszy 1 PL 02-025, ☏ +48 22 5791000, info.sobieski.warsaw@radissonblu.com. Reviled for its pretentious and garish architecture and style, the Sobieski is a short tram ride from the Central train station and at the end of the road to the airport. The very favorable location with regard to transit is offset by an uninteresting, dull and noisy area it is in. 
• There are also many furnished, and some also serviced, apartments in the modern residential highrises close to the city centre, available for both long-term and short-term rentals. Look for them online directly or via booking websites.

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