Yonezawa
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Understand
editYonezawa may be an unassuming rural town today, but it was once a grand castle town home to the Uesugi Clan (上杉氏 Uesugi-shi), one of the most powerful families during Japan's Muromachi and Sengoku periods (14-17th century). Legendary warlord Date Masamune, the "One-Eyed Dragon", was born here in 1567. The Uesugi had an epic, centuries-running feud with the Takeda clan of Kai (Yamanashi), but they made the mistake of choosing the wrong side in the Battle of Sekigahara (1600) and as a punishment were reduced to irrelevance by the following Tokugawa shogunate, retaining only a scrap of land around Yonezawa. The castle was flattened in 1873 by order of the Meiji government, but the moat remains the focal point of the city, with Uesugi Shrine built on the castle ruins to commemorate the clan.
The Uesugi-Takeda feud provided rich fodder for NHK's historical drama Tenchijin (天地人), set in the closing days of the Sengoku era. The year-long drama's broadcast in 2009 was the biggest thing to happen in Yonezawa since 1600, and the entire town is liberally festooned with banners, statues, souvenirs and more commemorating both the actual figures and their TV versions.
Tourist Information Site
editThe city has an official multilingual guide site, Yonezawa Sightseeing Navigation.
Get in
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By train
editGet around
editYonezawa is surprisingly spread out, and the train station is on the wrong side of the river 2 km away from the city core. If you're not in the mood to walk, grab one of the infrequent buses, almost all of which head to the city (ask for Uesugi Jinja).
See
edit- 1 Uesugi Shrine (上杉神社 Uesugi Jinja) (within Matsugasaki Park). A shrine dedicated to Uesugi Kenshin, one of the top daimyo and samurai of the Warring States Period. The flags leading up to the shrine feature the character for "dragon", because Kenshin was known as the Dragon of Echigo Province where he ruled from, and the character "Bi" from the Buddhist war god Bishamonten who he worshipped and whom some followers believed he was the avatar. The shrine is located here, rather than somewhere in Niigata where Echigo Province was located, because the Uesugi Clan was sent here to rule the smaller domain of Yonezawa as punishment for opposing Tokugawa Ieyasu in the Battle of Sekigahara. Within the shrine grounds are the Uesugi Clan graves from the first daimyo of Yonezawa to the 11th. Kenshin's remains are also located here.
- 2 Yonezawa Castle (米沢城). The castle was first built by the Nagai Clan during the Kamakura Period. The Date Clan later took over and the famous warlord Date Masamune was born in the castle. It served a the head castle of the Date Clan for many years. After the Battle of Sekigahara, the castle was given to the Uesugi Clan as punishment for siding against Tokugawa Ieyasu who won the battle, and the Uesugi built up the castle with a three-story donjon, along with moving Uesugi Kenshin's grave to the Uesugi Clan graves from Echigo Province. The castle survived until the Meiji Period when it was ordered to be torn down. Walls and moats remain, and Uesugi Shrine was built where the castle's keep once stood. The grounds are also a popular place for cherry blossom viewing in the spring.
- 3 Uesugi Museum (上杉博物館). 09:00-17:00. A museum housing artifacts from the Uesugi Clan, including some designated as National Treasures. It has permenent exhibits as well as special exhibits. ¥410 (special exhibits have additional costs).
- 4 Toko Sake Museum (東光の酒蔵 Tōkō no sakekan, 酒造資料館), Omachi 2 Chome-3-22. 09:00-16:30. One of the largest sake museum in the Tohoku Region, the museum is located in a renovated historic sake brewery with an attached shop where you can sample and purchase sake. ¥350.
Do
editWhile central Yonezawa has no hot springs, there are seven within easy striking distance, the best known being Onogawa Onsen (20 min by bus) and Shirabu Onsen (50 min by bus).
Buy
edit- 1 Michi no Eki Yonezawa (道の駅米沢). 09:00-18:00. A large roadside souvenir shop where you can buy local sake, Yonezawa beef products, and other Yonezawa goods.
Eat
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Yonezawa is known throughout Japan for its beef (米沢牛 yonezawa-gyū), an expensive delicacy, and there are three beef speciality restaurants right outside the station competing for your attention plus countless more in the city itself. Just don't fall into the trap of eating the cheapest bento boxes, made from gristly leftovers: instead, sample a course at a ryokan or speciality restaurant. With diminutive steaks easily costing ¥8,000 per head, most visitors will find stews like sukiyaki the tastiest and most cost-effective option, but locals also prize their meat raw!
- 1 Tade (蓼, たで). F-Tu 11:00-13:30. Had too much beef? Try these healthy soba noodles. ¥1000.
- 2 Uesugi Hakushakutei (上杉伯爵邸), Marunouchi 1-3-60, ☏ +81 238-21-5121. 10:00-21:00, closed on Wednesdays during winter. Have traditional Yonezawa food (including Yonezawa beef) in a very Japanese atmosphere just near the Uesugi shrine. Steak for ¥4000, other menus from ¥2100.
- 3 Meat Pia (ミートピア), Chuo 1-11-9, ☏ +81 238-21-0377. M-Sa 11:00-21:00. Yonezawa beef sukiyaki and tonkatsu ¥1500.
Drink
editYonezawa is sake country and the best-known local tipple is Tōkō (東光). Appointed to supply the Uesugis, the "East Light" has been brewed in Yonezawa since 1597 and is run by the 23rd generation of the same family, so they must be doing something right. Their sake comes in a vast constellation of grades, from the proletarian fūtsūshu (¥1600/1.8L) to the top-of-the-line daiginjō (¥12,000/1.8L), and is available everywhere in town. See "See" section for details on the Toko Sake Museum.
Sleep
editYonezawa is famous for its onsen, such as Onogawa Onsen and Shirabu Onsen. While none are near the town center, they can be reached by public transport or car.
- Hotel Route inn Yonezawa-eki Higashiguchi (ホテルルートイン米沢駅東).
- Den's Hotel Yonezawa (Yonezawa Excel Hotel Tokyu).
