Zhangye

Zhangye (张掖; Zhāngyè) is a city in Gansu Province with striking and beautiful mountain scenery nearby.

As for most Chinese cities, the name "Zhangye" is somewhat ambiguous since it can refer either to the city itself or to the prefecture with that city at its center. Wikivoyage has a separate article for Minle, a suburb which is in the prefecture but not in the city.

Understand

Zhangye became the garrison headquarters after General Huo established control of the Hexi Corridor. Formerly known as Ganzhou, the town was part of the Western Xia dynasty until it was conquered by Kublai Khan in 1227. Although the city is not a tourist destination as such, it serves as good place to make stop when passing through the Hexi Corridor. Zhangye has a population of around 1.2 million (2010), of whom 260,000 are urban residents. In addition to Han Chinese, the city is also home to members of the minority Yugu people, who live only in Gansu.

Get in

By plane

• 1 Zhangye Ganzhou Airport (张掖甘州机场, YZY  ^IATA). Opened in 2011, this airport 13 km south of the city has flights to/from Xi'an, Lanzhou, Shanghai, Beijing, Chengdu, Chongqing, and a few other major domestic airports as of June 2018. However, many of these flights make stops en route, operate only on specific days, and do not operate over the winter. (updated Jun 2018)

Zhangye has frequent high-speed rail connections from Lanzhou via Xining, both of which have much larger airports than Zhangye's. These airports are likely to be more convenient for many visitors.

By train

• 2 Zhangye West Railway Station (张掖西站) (in the southwest of town, accessed via bus routes "New 1" or 22 (¥1).). This high-speed station has D-train service to destinations such as Urumqi (8.5-9.5 hr, ¥401.5), Xining (2 hr, ¥91.5), Lanzhou (3-3.5 hr, ¥149.5), and Xi'an (6.5-7 hr, ¥324).  

Zhangye Railway Station

• 3 Zhangye Station (张掖站) (At the end of Zhanghuo Gonglu, 6.5 km northeast of the central part of town. Bus No.1 runs from the train station to the centre of town (Drum Tower) and costs ¥1 (correct change only). Taxis will charge a set fee to the city of ¥12-15 and will be unlikely to use their meters.). Approximately 49 passenger train services use this station daily to destinations as far off as Beijing, Chongqing, Chengdu, Urumqi and Lanzhou. However obtaining a ticket on long-distance through trains can be difficult, often requiring travellers buy a ticket to Lanzhou first. There is a railway ticket office downtown in Marco Polo Street, for a ¥5 surcharge, negating having to travel out to the station.  

By bus

• 4 Zhangye Bus Station (张掖汽车站, West Bus Station), 381 West Ring Road, Ganzhou District (甘州区西环路381号), ☏ +86 936-8215022. Zhangye Qicai Danxia takes about 1.5 hr (¥10), Zhangye Binggou Danxia takes 1.5-2 hr (¥12), Xining takes about 7 hr (¥65). (updated Jun 2018)
• 5 Zhangye East Bus Station (张掖汽车东站), 122 East Ring Road (东环路122号), ☏ +86 936-8214073. Wuwei takes about 3-6 hr, Lanzhou takes about 11 hr. Yinchuan 
• 6 Zhangye South Bus Station (张掖汽车南站), 478 South Ring Road (南环路478号). Dunhuang takes about 12 hr, Jiayuguan takes about 4 hr, Lanzhou takes about 10 hr, Mati Si takes 2-3 hr, and Xining takes about 12 hr. 

Get around

By bus

Take bus No.3 to the West bus station, take bus No. 1 to the train station Bus fares are ¥1 - correct change only.

By private car or bus

You can book a private car via a travel agency or at the reception of most hotels. A trip to Mati Si + Daxia Landscape cost ¥500.

See

• 1 Da Fo Si, 大佛寺步行街, ☏ +86 936 6933666. (大佛寺), Giant Buddha Temple, biggest Chinese wooden indoor Reclining Buddha. 34.5 m long, 7.5 m high. This temple is the reputed birthplace for the Mongol emperor, Kublai Khan. ¥41/ ¥21. (updated Dec 2024)

Dafosi - this hall contains the largest reclining wooden Buddha in China

• 2 Zhangye Danxia National Geological Park (Qicai Danxia) (张掖丹霞国家地质公园 (七彩丹霞)) (By bus from West bus Station), zydanxia@163.com. 0530-1900 summer months. This park features a unique and wonderful geological landscape with layers of rocks of different colours, and mountains in the background. It is one of the highlights of Gansu province. It is also known in English as the Rainbow Mountains. It is about 40 km west from Zhangye.
  You cannot walk in the park except on the 4 dedicated wooden structures and staircases. A frequent shuttle service will take you between each spot inside the park.
  It is possible to re-enter the park the next morning before 08:00 for only the cost of the park shuttle bus, if you register your fingerprints at a scanner at one of the stops.
  One hotel near the West entrance takes foreigners (you can ask any hotel or restaurant there to tell you which one that is).
  There is a bus from Zhangye West Bus Station to the West entrance of the park for ¥15 (Oct 23). The bus operates between 0730-1730 (in Oct 23, there were no buses back from the park after 4pm, make sure to ask). A taxi from Zhangye to the park will cost about ¥100 one way.
  The park is fairly small, three hours is more than enough time to see it thoroughly. ¥92 (including mandatory ¥32 shuttle fee). (updated Oct 2023)
• 3 Blackwater National site (黑水国遗址). In the 12.5 km northwest of the Zhangye. 15 km long from north to south and 10 km long from east to west, ancient cultural sites of the Neolithic period, a national key cultural relics protection units. Sites within the Han Dynasty tombs, about 4 km². Most of the tombs have been buried in sand, who have not traveled was buried by the desert, most of the liberation excavation. 
• 4 Nanhu Park (南湖公园). Nanhu Park, also known as South Lake Ecological Botanical Garden, located in the south county, is the Shandan experiment to promote flower species of new varieties of forestry demonstration garden, but it is also a set of historical and cultural landscape of the land and the natural landscape as one of the tour. 
• 5 Mati Si Temple & mountain scenery (马蹄寺). 08:00-18:00. 65 km south of the city proper, in the Sunan Yugu (Tibetan) Autonomous Prefecture, lies Mati Temple, or Horse's Hoof Temple (Mati Si). Temples and grottoes are carved into the side of a cliff in several zones spread over several kilometres. Several of these can be visited and climbed through, in some cases through tight vertical passageways using small footholds and handholds. Most of the statues were heavily damaged in the 1960s, but the buildings and passageways are in good shape. Besides the temple you can do a 2-hr horse tour passing a fantastic landscape (horse ride ¥150-200) or hike. ¥73.  
• 6 Zhangye Danxia National Geological Park (Binggou Danxia) (张掖丹霞国家地质公园 (冰沟丹霞))) (Bus from West Bus Station, ¥12 (passes several blocks from Qicai Danxia west entrance)). Less colourful than the more famous Qicai Danxia, this one features columns of red rock (with some white bands), in two valleys. There's a network of trails accessing viewpoints in and around two different valleys. ¥40 entry + ¥20 bus fee. (updated Nov 2017)
• 7 Pingshanhu Grand Canyon (平山湖大峡谷) (bus at 09:45 from the East bus station, or hire a car). More rock-based scenery. About 60 km northeast of Zhangye, this area supposedly resembles the Grand Canyon in Arizona. ¥100 Entry + ¥30 bus. (updated Dec 2017)
• 8 Zhangye Drum Tower (张掖鼓楼), Central Square of Ganzhou District. 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM. Zhangye Drum Tower is an ancient building with a long history. It was built in the Ming Dynasty and rebuilt in the Qing Dynasty. The structure of the drum tower is magnificent, and there is a huge drum hanging upstairs, which used to be used to report the time and convey urgent information. It is a landmark building in Zhangye, showing the aesthetics and historical value of traditional Chinese architecture, and providing an excellent view of the city. free. (updated Dec 2024)
• 9 Zhangye Minqin Hall (张掖民勤会馆), North Street, Ganzhou District. 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM. Zhangye Minqin Hall is a hall built in Zhangye by Minqin merchants in the Qing Dynasty. It is mainly used for business trips, activities and religious sacrifices. The architectural style combines the characteristics of the northwest region and the traditional Han architectural art, and is preserved intact. The carved beams and painted buildings in the hall are antique, showing the life and culture of merchants in the northwest of the Qing Dynasty. Visitors can also learn about the history of Zhangye as an important node of the Silk Road. 20. (updated Dec 2024)

Do

• Swim in Hei river
• 1 Muto-ji Temple (木塔寺), Muta Lane, Ganzhou District. 8:30 AM - 5:30 PM. The Wooden Pagoda Temple is one of the Five Elements Pagodas in Zhangye. The existing wooden pagoda was rebuilt in 1926. The tower is 32.8 meters high, with nine levels on eight sides. Each level has a wood-carved dragon head, a pearl in the mouth, and a wind chime hanging below. The main body of the tower is a wooden structure, and the outer eaves are built in the style of a pavilion. The tower body is exquisitely carved, reflecting the exquisite skills of ancient architectural art. Tourists can climb along the stairs in the tower. Each floor is equipped with a cloister and a guardrail. You can overlook the city of Zhangye by the railing. free. (updated Dec 2024)
• 2 Heihe Wetland Park (黑河湿地公园), Suburbs of Ganzhou District. 7:00 AM - 6:00 PM. Heihe Wetland is located in Heihe Wetland Park on the outskirts of Ganzhou District. It is a typical wetland ecosystem in desert areas, with well-protected swamp wetlands, lake wetlands and river wetlands, with a total area of about 20,200 mu. It is rich in biodiversity and is an important habitat for birds and other wild animals. There are bird-watching towers and other facilities in the wetland, where visitors can watch birds, hike, and enjoy the tranquility and beauty of nature. 30. (updated Dec 2024)

Buy

Zhangye Xiaozao (张掖小枣), Nanmen Market, Ganzhou District. Zhangye jujube is a local specialty, which is famous for its uniform size, thin skin and thick flesh, and sweet taste. They are rich in vitamins and minerals. They are not only healthy snacks, but also often used for stewing soup or making pastries. Zhangye's jujube is of excellent quality because of sufficient sunshine and fertile soil, and is known as the "sweet gift of the Silk Road". Nanmen Market in Ganzhou District is the best place to buy dates. There are many direct sales stalls of local farmers here, where you can buy fresh dates or processed jujube products. 20-50. (updated Dec 2024)

Hexi wool products (河西羊毛制品). Due to the geographical environment, the Hexi area is suitable for raising sheep and produces high-quality wool. These wool products include warm scarves, comfortable blankets and traditional craft-woven carpets. Each wool product reflects the exquisite skills of local craftsmen, which is both practical and beautiful. These products are not only good products for winter, but also have the value of collecting and gifting. Many handicrafts are also integrated with the ethnic patterns of the Hexi region, showing the local culture. 100-500. (updated Dec 2024)

Licorice (甘草). Zhangye licorice is famous for its high content of glycyrrhizic acid and pure taste, which is widely used in traditional Chinese medicinal materials, food seasoning and health care tea. Zhangye's licorice is usually made into slices, powders or tea bags, which are easy to store and use. Licorice has the effect of moistening the throat, nourishing the stomach, clearing heat and detoxifying, and is a good health product for families. As a special Chinese medicinal material of Zhangye, it is not only a practical purchase option, but also a gift with local characteristics. 30-100. (updated Dec 2024)

Eat

During the day, give Qing Ming Street a try and during the night, give Xiaochichang (Little Eat Market) a try.

1 Old Ganzhou Flavor Restaurant (老甘州风味馆), North Street, Ganzhou District. 10:00 AM - 9:00 PM. Old Ganzhou Flavor Restaurant is a restaurant based on traditional Ganzhou flavor, serving authentic Zhangye rubbed care. Zhangye rubbed cariar is a traditional handmade noodle, which is kneaded into a small fish-shaped dough with flour and water, which is named after its shape like a small fish. Usually with delicious mutton soup or vegetable soup, the soup is rich and the noodles are chewy, which is deeply loved by local people. This dish not only reflects the dietary characteristics of the northwest region, but also shows the wisdom and skill of local residents. 20-30. (updated Dec 2024)

2 Zhangye Northwest Restaurant (张掖大西北餐厅), Central Street, Ganzhou District. 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM. Zhangye Daxi Restaurant is famous for its authentic northwestern cuisine, and kang pot lamb chops are one of its signature dishes. Kang pot lamb chops is a specialty of the northwest region. Fresh lamb chops are put into the traditional kang pot with potatoes, onions and other ingredients, add a variety of spices, and cook over low heat. The lamb chops are charred on the outside and tender on the inside, and the potatoes are soft and glutinous, and the aroma is overflowing. This dish fully reflects the unique cooking style and rich regional customs of the northwest people for mutton. 60-100. (updated Dec 2024)

3 Majia Noodle Restaurant (马家面馆), East Street, Ganzhou District. 9:00 AM - 8:00 PM. Majia Noodle Restaurant is a long-established noodle restaurant with many years of history, famous for its handmade noodles. Located on East Street, Ganzhou District, the store retains the traditional production process. Lentil noodles are one of its characteristics, which is well received by diners. Lentil noodles are a kind of handmade flat noodles with special lentil sauce. The sauce is made of fresh lentils, minced garlic, chili, etc., which is delicious and rich in texture. This dish is especially popular in summer. It is refreshing and delicious, which can not only satisfy the taste buds, but also help the appetite. 15-25. (updated Dec 2024)

Drink

Green barley wine (青稞酒), Specialty store in Ganzhou District. Green barley wine is a traditional wine brewed from plateau green barley, which has a long history. It has a rich aroma, a slight wheat flavor, and a moderate alcohol content. It is a very popular drink in Tibet. Green barley wine is not only a good wine for daily drinking, but also often used in celebrations and sacrificial activities, symbolizing auspiciousness and reunion. As a representative of the culture of the northwest and Tibetan regions, green barley wine has a unique flavor and is an excellent choice for gifts or tasting local customs. Many green barley wines are also integrated with modern packaging design, which not only retains traditional characteristics, but also is easy to carry. 50-200. (updated Dec 2024)

Licorice tea (甘草茶), Zhangye Traditional Chinese Medicine Market. Licorice tea is a healthy drink made from Zhangye's specialty licorice, which is popular for its sweet and soft taste and medicinal value. Licorice tea has the effect of moistening the throat, detoxifying and conditioning the stomach and intestines, which is especially suitable for drinking in a dry climate. Zhangye's licorice is of excellent quality, so the licorice tea made tastes more mellow. Licorice tea is not only a good product for family daily health care, but also a special gift for relatives and friends. When purchasing, you can choose the form of bag, bulk or tea bag, which is convenient for use in different scenarios. 10-30. (updated Dec 2024)

Handmade yogurt (手工酸奶), Ranch in Ganzhou District. Handmade yogurt is a major feature of Zhangye pastoral area. It is made of fresh milk or sheep's milk fermented, with a thick texture and moderate sweet and sourness. Traditional handmade yogurt is usually combined with honey, nuts or raisins to increase flavor and nutritional value. Handmade yogurt retains the natural flavor of dairy products, does not contain additives, and is a representative of a healthy diet. As a local specialty food, it reflects the lifestyle and food culture of the people in the pastoral area. 15-20. (updated Dec 2024)

Sleep

Budget

• 1 Huayi Hotel (Huayi Binguan), East Street (East of Xiaochichang (Close to Dico's, next door to the China Construction Bank)), ☏ +86 936 8242118. No English sign or English spoken but easy to find - opposite the pedestrian street, about 100 m east of the Drum Tower. It has two stone lions on either side of a revolving door. Twin rooms for ¥128 with free (wired) internet, TV, a/c and private bathroom, 24-hr hot water. 
• Zhongguang Hotel (Zhongguang Zhaodaisuo), Second Floor establishment, Xianfu Street (On the south corner of Minsheng West Street), ☏ +86 936 5985449. 
• 2 Zhangye Qicai Danxia International Youth Hostel (张掖七彩丹霞国际青年旅舍), No.182 HuanChengXi Road GanZhou District, ☏ +86-936-8588918, zhangyeql@qq.com. Dorm ¥50. (updated Jul 2015)

Mid-range

• Honghao Hotel (Honghao Binguan), 11 Xianfu Street, ☏ +86 936 8250588. 
• 3 Jindu Hotel (Jindu Binguan), 19 East Street, ☏ +86 936 8245088, fax: +86 936 8245122. 
• 4 Holiday Inn Express (智选假日酒店), 184 W. Huancheng Rd. New, clean, comfortable, western chain hotel. It's kind of isolated and there is not much within walking distance. The #4 bus has a stop immediately in front of the hotel that can take you to the city center. About ¥130 or $20USD per night. (updated Jul 2019)

Splurge

• 5 Zhangye Hotel (张掖酒店), ☏ +86 936 8212601, fax: +86 936 8213806. 
• 6 Huachen International Hotel (华辰国际大酒店), ☏ +86 936 8257777, fax: +86 936 8277667. 

Go next

• Minle, in Zhangye Prefecture
• Mati Temple - in the Tibetan town of Mati, more caves carved into a cliff.
• Qilian mountains
• Zhangye Danxia Landscape - 1-1½ hr by bus from the West Station.