Ajijic

Ajijic is on the lake Chapala in the state of Jalisco. Ajijic is a town of 11,400 people (2020) and is a popular tourist destination.

Understand

The cobblestone streets are an enduring cultural tradition that adds charm to the already artistic and ornate town.

Ajijic is a place at risk of being taken over by expatriates like San Miguel de Allende, with prices of commodities and housing becoming exorbitant and a bit of an issue with gringo monoculture going on (e.g. not wanting to associate with locals, demanding things be like they are in the US, etc.) While it can feel a bit comforting to be around those of the same background, there are these detractors. Additionally, Lake Chapala suffers after-effects of longstanding industrial dumping which has resulted in elevated levels of pollution and mercury, although it seems to have abated somewhat in the late 2010s due to rising water levels. Even though the lake scenery is very beautiful, you can see evidence of eutrophication, lack of dissolved oxygen, with the abundance of water hyacinth on the lake surface, and swimming and eating fish from the lake may be worth reconsidering.

Get in

Closest airport is Guadalajara. Ajijic is a 30-minute drive south of the GDL ^IATA airport. If you speak only English, be sure to select a hotel where English is spoken!

Get around

There is bus service along the carraterra (main road that runs thru Ajijic). The cost is M$7 per person within Ajijic, M$9 if traveling to Chapala to the east or Jocotepec to the west. There were several covered bus stops, but most had no seating. When you want to get off, you simply push the red button & exit at the rear doors. Be prepared for heavy traffic on Route 23 because it is the only major thruway in Ajijic, and knobbly cobblestones on most of the side streets (bad for those in wheelchairs).

Within Ajijic, there are buses that run on the narrow cobblestone roads that cost only M$7 per person. You stand on the corner and when the bus comes your way, you hold up your arm to signal that you need to ride.

See

Aerial view of Ajijic's Plaza and kiosk, looking south towards Lake Chapala and Mt Garcia

• 1 Malecón Ajijic. Prime promenade for enjoying Lake Chapala that also has murals, carvings, and food vendors. Watch out for water hyacinth detracting from the pretty lake views. (updated Dec 2020)
• 2 Plaza Principal de Ajijic, Guadalupe Victoria 4. Ajijic's central square/hangout zone with a pavilion and various art; sometimes the site of various functions. (updated Dec 2020)
• 3 Centro Cultural, Guadalupe Victoria 5, ☏ +52 376 766 2373. M-Th Sa 08ː00-18ː00, F 10ː00-18ː00, closed Su. Local museum with some art and pottery exhibits, among other things. (updated Dec 2020)
• 4 Parroquia San Andres Apostol, Marcos Castellanos 14, ☏ +52 376 766 0922. The obligatory town parish. (updated Dec 2020)

Do

• 1 El Tepalo (trailhead off Galeana/Revolucion). An interesting waterfall and vantage point from the Sierra de San Juan Cosalas that you can reach via hiking trail. If you really want to see Lake Chapala from above, try this. (updated Dec 2020)

Buy

• 1 Lake Chapala Farmers Market, 510, Carr Jocotepec-chapala 524, ☏ +52 33 3143 6942. Tuesdays only 09ː30-12ː30. Local vendors selling meat, bakery items, tamales, crafts, even vegan stuff. (updated Dec 2020)

Eat

While the restaurants don't have expansive glamor, the food quality and service are exceptional most of the time; the prices are amazingly low. Some have specials (such as Brewhouse 1/2-price fish/chips on Tuesday eve; or live music at Domenech on Monday) that enhance the offerings. The proprietors are very friendly and will sit and visit with you.

Sleep

Most places do not have A/C. While the temps are mild, sometimes, the lack of airflow is stifling at night. And with windows and doors open, come the exterior noises of parties, dogs, and cats. In spite of this, nighttime is typically quiet. The occasional nighttime storm is good reason to close the doors and then; however, this will cause the room to get warm inside. Rooms do not have ceiling fans—only noisy floor-stand fans with short cords. Be prepared to get gouged price-wise somewhat due to where you are.

• 1 Hotel Casa de la Abuela, Hermenegildo Galeana 75, ☏ +52 376 766 1747. Impressive enclosed garden setting around pool, complimentary deluxe breakfast with eggs and french toast, comfortable rooms. Can hike to waterfall from here. M$1244. (updated Dec 2020)
• 2 Hotel Lindo Ajijic, Ángel Flores 17A, ☏ +52 33 1865 4766. A bed and breakfast with nice pool setting with great views of lake. Breakfast can be made to order. Sometimes some hot water issues with shower. M$1718. (updated Dec 2020)
• 3 La Nueva Posada Ajijic, Donato Guerra 9, ☏ +52 376 766 1344. A cozy inn with Mexican architecture and attractive masonry inside that has an attached restaurant and a grotto-like pool. Close to lake with nice views. M$967. (updated Dec 2020)
• 4 LIA Ajijic - Lake Chapala Bed & Breakfast, Guadalupe Victoria 98, ☏ +52 33 1127 8428. Homestay type of place with a decent breakfast and some exercise equipment and Wi-Fi M$750. (updated Dec 2020)