Cotija
Cotija (officially, but never actually called Cotija de la Paz) is a small town of about 14,000 inhabitants (2022) in the state of Michoacan. Famous among foodies for the semi-hard to hard cotija cheese, which is often compared to feta when served young, or parmesan when grated as a hard cheese. Cotija has a romantic colonial downtown area that is a favorite weekend getaway for couples from Guadalajara. It is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
Understand
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The town traces its colonial history to its founding in 1575 as a single ranch. Additional colonists arrived about 10 years later. The area grew slowly as a cattle ranching community. They built a small chapel in the early 17th century but didn't get a permanent priest until 1730. In the 21st century, the town has struggled with organized crime as drug cartels moved in imposing lawlessness and disorder.
Get in
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The nearest major city with an international airport is Guadalajara (GDL IATA).
By bus
editFrom Guadalajara, go to the Nuevo Central de Camiones and find the ticket counter for Sur Jalisco. Take the bus towards Zamora, but you'll want to get off in Jiquilpan (about 2 hours from Guadalajara). The ticket will cost about M$250. Sit on the side behind the driver if you want to enjoy the scenery of Lake Chapala on the way. Once you get to Jiquilpan you'll need to take a taxi for the last 30 minutes or so.
For a more comfortable ride, Primera Plus operates buses to Cotija from Guadalajara and from Mexico City. If you take the bus from Cotija to CDMX, it is a night bus leaving at 21:00 and arriving in Mexico at 05:00. The 1-way fare is M$1000.
- 1 Central de Autobuses Primera Plus, Calle Madero 645. Small bus terminal with weird hours and no waiting room nor dedicated parking lot. Usually closed during the day. First-class buses but a third-class station.
Get around
editSee
edit- 1 Parroquia De Nuestra Señora Del Popolo, Javier Mina 97, Centro. Beautiful neoclassical style colonial church that's beautifully maintained with a bright airy interior and an elaborately ornate main altar.
- 2 Museo de Cotija (Cotija Museum), Morelos 6, Centro (corner of Nicolas Bravo and Jose Mina).
Do
editBuy
edit- 1 Mercado Municipal, Calle Madero 69, Centro. Daily 06:00 - 19:00. The town's traditional marketplace is where you'll get the freshest produce in town, not to mention a variety of cheeses from the local dairy farms. A number of vendors sell prepared regional dishes.
Cheese
edit- 2 Queso Cotija el Legado, Hidalgo 84, Centro, ☏ +52 354 125 7761. M-F 09:30 - 14:30. Variety of locally made cheeses as well as chocolates and other products. Shipping available throughout Mexico.
- 3 Quesos Ochoas, Cuauhtémoc 114, San Marcos, ☏ +52 394 534 2289. Daily 07:00 - 15:00. Locally made artesanal cheeses. Stop in and see round wheels of cheese on aging racks. Ships throughout Mexico and U.S.
Eat
editChances are good that you'll be able to taste the town's famous cheeses, but be aware that the traditional artesanal cheeses are made only between the months of July and October when the dairy herds feed on the rich fresh grasses during the rainy season. Cotija cheese has a rather salty flavor and is often compared to feta when served young, or to parmesan when aged (up to a year). The young cheeses are only available during the late summer and early fall, though commercial brands are sold year round.
- 1 Las Girasoles, Hidalgo 102, Centro, ☏ +52 354 545 1175. Daily 08:00 - 21:00. Traditional Mexican restaurant serving regional cuisine. The birria is a winner. Billiards, air hockey and other games.
- 2 Cenaduria las Genaras, Calle Madero 631, Sabinos, ☏ +52 394 534 3224. 24 hours daily. Casual, family friendly place serving tacos, quesadillas, etc. Good place for cheap eats.
- 3 La Casa del Portal, Portal Guerrero 27, Centro, ☏ +52 394 688 0366. Daily 13:00 - 23:00. Cozy traditional restaurant serving crepes, light food, and mezcalitas. M$200.
- 4 Chilemole Guisado, C. Madero 961, Los Corrales, ☏ +52 354 135 6827. Tu-Su 09:00 - 14:00, closed M. Casual, bright, cheery restaurant for breakfast or lunch. Cafe de Olla with waffles is a good start for breakfast. Try the various stews (guisadas) for lunch. M$200.
Drink
editSleep
edit- 1 Hotel Cotija, Benito Juarez 80, Centro, ☏ +52 394 534 3063. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Budget hotel with barebones rooms that need a serious makeover because. No air conditioning. Weak WiFi.
- 2 Hotel Roberto, Calle Madero 373, Centro, ☏ +52 394 534 4461. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Mediocre budget hotel with minimal furnishings.