Cañada de la Virgen

Cañada de la Virgen is an archaeological site in the state of Guanajuato, Mexico, about 30 km from the colonial city of San Miguel de Allende. Cañada de la Virgen was built by the Otomi culture around 540 AD as an astronomical observatory. The site reached its peak around the year 900 and was abandoned by 1040. The site includes 3 primary pyramids, several squares or patios, a ballcourt, and numerous smaller structures.

Understand

Anthropologists believe the site served as a time-keeping device with site architecture oriented toward the sun, moon and Venus and with unusual structural engineering such as a large pool that could serve as a mirror of the night sky and an 18-degree tilt to key platforms. The largest structure at the site is called "The House of the Thirteen Heavens" and it exemplifies how architecture can be aligned to the heavens: two corners precisely align to the sun at the precise moment of the summer and winter solstices while the other two corners precisely align to the sun on two dates that would be important to an agrarian society. March 4 to begin planting and October 9 to bring in the harvest.

In a bizarre twist of events, INAH archaeologists discovered a skeleton entombed at the top level of one of the pyramids. They assumed it was a man, but were surprised when the DNA showed it was actually the remains of a woman. Even more shocking, the bones dated from 400 BC, even though the pyramid was dated as having been built in 540 AD. WTF old Otomi dudes?!?!

History

Although the site is ancient, its recognition came slowly and only in the early 2020s has it become a popular site for visitors to Guanajuato or San Miguel de Allende. In the 1990s there were some incidents of trespassers and vandals damaging the site, though it would be years before the government stepped in to stop the destruction. In 2011, local anthropologist Albert Coffee began guiding travelers through the site and explaining its history and significance. and in 2017, INAH (Instituto Nacional de Antropologia y Historia) built a site museum, secured the site, and began offering formal tours and visitor programs.

Landscape

Dusty, rocky, dry open plains.

Climate

Temperatures in this part of Guanajuato are generally warm and pleasant. A light jacket might be appropriate on the coldest winter days, but usually, jeans and a T-shirt will work with maybe a hat to protect you from the sometimes fierce afternoon sun. June through September is the wettest time of year when scattered showers and cloudy conditions are likely.

Get in

The site is located at Carretera San Miguel de Allende - Guanuajuto, Km 9.5. It is about a half hour by taxi from San Miguel de Allende. There are tour operators in San Miguel de Allende who will sell you a tour package to the site that includes van transportation and meals or snacks.

Be aware that no backpacks, purses or similar bags are permitted in the site. Leave these at your hotel if you are taking a taxi, or lock them in your car if you are driving to the site.

Once you arrive at the site and park your car, you will take a shuttle bus to the site entrance where a tour guide will be waiting. Only guided tours of the site are allowed (no wandering around on your own). Fortunately, the guides are extremely knowledgeable (usually professional INAH archaeologists or PhD students).

Hours, fees and permits

The site is open Tu-Du 10:00 to 18:00, closed Monday. The fee to enter is M$85 per adult.

Get around

Comfortable walking shoes will be in order. It's a bit rocky, but nothing that would call for heavy boots. Do not expect handicap accessibility.

See

The site is organized into five groups, labeled Complex A through E.

Complex A - This is the one area you absolutely don't want to miss because it's where the coolest things are located. You're not going to easily miss it anyway. Just look for the biggest pyramid around, that's Complex A. When archaeologists were doing their digging, they found all kinds of things in this area including pots, pieces of metal, and even some human remains.
Complex B - Not super interesting. Structures weren't aligned with the planets so it was probably an area where people lived and worked.
Complex C - Nothing to see since it hasn't been excavated yet. Maybe someday...
Complex D - Interesting architecture with a square foundation but rounded levels as you go up.
Complex E - Interesting pyramid with one side that opens out onto a patio.
Site Museum - Some relics from the site, but mostly interpretive displays explaining the history and archaeological excavations that have taken place so far, not particularly big, but it's included with the site admission, so might as well have a look while you're here

Do

Explore the ruins
Visit the site museum

Buy

Lots to see here, but nothing to buy.

Eat

There's an old lady selling tacos on site, otherwise save your appetite for dinner back in San Miguel de Allende.

Drink

The lady sells bottled water and sodas too, but you're best off bringing some water with you because she might take days off.

Sleep

This is an archaeological site, not a flop house. There are (very nice!) hotels in San Miguel de Allende.

There are also some campgrounds, camping, and glamping lodges on the shores of nearby Laguna La Begoña, especially near federal highway MEX-51.

Stay safe

Guanajuato is not a particularly dangerous state, but normal precautions are wise. Be aware of your surroundings, don't carry valuables, and hide things in your car and lock it.

Go next

This park travel guide to Cañada de la Virgen is a usable article. It has information about the park, for getting in, about a few attractions, and about accommodations in the park. An adventurous person could use this article, but please feel free to improve it by editing the page.