Frenchman Coulee

Frenchman Coulee is a gorge located in the Columbia River Plateau region of central Washington state that is popular with rock climbers.

The lovely basalt columns of Frenchman Coulee

Understand

History

Between 5 and 16 million years ago, a series of volcanic eruptions from what is now the Yellowstone Hot Spot periodically flooded the Columbia Basin with thousands of feet of molten basalt.

Much more recently, during the Ice Age between 12,000 and 18,000 years ago, a glacial meltwater flood breached the Grand Coulee. During the first stages of flooding, the water levels between the flood-filled Quincy Basin and the Columbia River immediately west of Evergreen Ridge approached 700 feet over just a few miles. This incredible difference in water levels caused floodwaters to relentlessly eat away the underlying rock layers. Erosion continued for at least as long as it took for the water level in the Columbia Valley to rise to about 1200 feet, or until the floodwater supply was exhausted.

Landscape

Sandy land surrounded by steep cliff walls. The Coulee exhibits a waterfall near the North Alcove as well as a small stream that flows into the dry bed of the Coulee. The waterfall has been called Frenchman Waterfall, Frenchman's Coulee Waterfall, and Stolp Falls among other names, though consistent record of the actual name is difficult to find. There is a set of basalt columns commonly frequented by climbers located between the north and middle alcove of the Coulee. Frenchman Coulee terminates near the edge of the Columbia River Gorge and is located directly north of Echo Basin.

Flora and fauna

Desert brush and small species of cactus exist in the canyon. Some reeds and more lush growth can be found along the small stream leading into the canyon and around the falls.

Climate

Frenchman Coulee receives very little rain at any time of the year. The summers are typically hot and windy making spring and fall the best time to visit the area. Fog has been known to roll through the Coulee. High winds are also present at times in the area, sometimes arriving quickly and with little to no warning.

Get in

Frenchman Coulee is located one mile off of Interstate 90 between Ellensburg and Moses Lake, and directly across the Columbia River from Vantage. Take Exit 143 to Silica Road. Head north for about 1/2 miles, then turn left onto Vantage Highway.

Fees and permits

Frenchman Coulee is administered by Washington State Parks. State Parks require a pass to park at. The Discover Pass is $10 a day, or $30 a year. Order online, buy from an outdoors retailer, or pick up from a kiosk at the entrance to the more popular state parks.

Get around

The main road through the park is paved, though other auxiliary roads are not. Most campsites are accessible to normal cars, but a few are difficult to access without a high-clearance vehicle.

The Coulee is about 3 miles from end to end, and makes a good day-hike.

See

The Old Vantage Highway takes you through the coulee, where you can visualize the flood as it unfolded: the north cataract flows past The Feathers, a distinctive set of basalt columns at the front of the main climbing area. Follow the cliff wall until it ends at Echo Basin, a south cataract merging into the north one. At the top of the Echo Basin cataract, you can see diatom, a white powder used for mining. At the bottom, you may notice the plunge pools eroded from the falling water. Keep going, and you will eventually come to the end of the old highway at the Columbia River.

Do

Rock climbing is the primary draw for people to Frenchman Coulee. There are hundreds of routes, sport and traditional, on a variety of rock ranging from 30m basalt column cracks to sporty 5.12 jug-fests. An excellent guidebook is available for the area. For sport climbing, you'll need a 60m rope and sixteen draws, plus some slings and carabiners for anchors.

Hiking and camping are also popular. Frenchman Coulee has a (present-day) waterfall that is accessible by foot.

Due to the fragile ecosystem and environmental hazards in and around Echo Canyon, careful attention should be paid to stay on the established trails, respect raptor nesting closures and use a "leave-no-trace" environmental ethic.

Buy

There are no facilities at Frenchman Coulee. The nearest towns are Vantage to the west, and George to the northeast, which has several convenience stores, a gas station, and a few restaurants.

Eat

• Sagecliffe Resort and Spa. Ten minutes by car down Silica Rd. If you are camping at the Feathers hit the bathroom at the restaurant and hotel, get coffee, etc. The food in the restaurant is amazing but comes at a cost. 

Drink

There is no running water at Frenchman Coulee. Bring your own drinking water.

Sleep

Camping

• 1 Dispersed Camping Area. There is a designated camping area located immediately east of the main parking area. There are no designated sites but you can drive through the rough dirt trail to find a flat area. Portable toilets are nearby but there is no running water, no picnic tables and no fires are allowed. The area can become quite busy during long weekends or when there are big concerts held at the nearby amphitheater in George. (updated Nov 2024)
• 2 Wanapum State Park (south of Vantage, about 10 miles from Frenchman Coulee). There are 50 camp sites that are quite nice, situated along the Columbia River (Wanapum Lake) and lined with trees. Tent and RV sites are available and all cost $22/night. Reservations can be made online for an additional $7 fee. The sites are almost completely booked up during the weekends over the summer. (updated Nov 2024)
• There are also several campgrounds located in and around Vantage, George, and Quincy.

The wind in this area is notorious for picking up from nothing into gale force winds. Tie your tent down and inspect the trees in your vicinity for rot and the potential for them to blow over.

Backcountry

There is no backcountry camping in the area. Camping is restricted to designated locations.

Stay safe

There are rattlesnakes in the area. While they are not aggressive or too numerous, they are there.

Rockfall sometimes occurs on the Vantage Highway.

In the bottom of the coulee, on the south side near the cliffs, watch your step as the area has been used as a dumping ground for automobiles, so broken glass, rusted wires, and other trash. A barbed wire fence also runs north to south across the coulee and is not always easy to spot. It does not obstruct the dirt road at the bottom of the coulee.

Go next

Try the other rock climbing areas of Washington:

• Index — easy access to a big wall
• Leavenworth — the "Bavarian" village nestled in the mountains
• Mazama, outside of Winthrop — cragging next to the huge routes of North Cascades National Park
• North Bend — the most accessible rock to Seattle
• Tieton, outside of Yakima — also features column basalts