Kėdainiai

Kėdainiai is a city in the Aukštaitija region of Lithuania, with a population of 23,447 in 2023. It's almost dead centre of the country, and a monument a few km west of town marks the exact geographical centre. Much of it is modern and industrial, with the huge Lifosa chemical works nearby, but the reason to visit is the attractive 17th century Old Town.

Understand

If you're a bulk purchaser of sulphuric acid or phosphate-based fertiliser then you've come to the right place. Lifosa chemical complex 3 km southeast makes exactly what you seek, and employs almost a thousand in the town. The tourist draw is Old Town, but the reason it's there is because of trade and industry, equally grubby in bygone centuries. For example the town attracted many Scottish business folk and settlers in the 17th century, and had a large Jewish population (skilled, amongst other trades, in dye-stuffs for fabrics) encouraged to settle in "The Pale" in Tsarist times. This means that Kėdainiai has a multicultural history, and one of the best-preserved Old Towns in Lithuania outside of Vilnius. It's also easy to reach, within an hour's travel from Kaunas.

Get in

Kaunas has the closest airport (KUN ^IATA). It's north of that city and less than an hour to drive, but by public transport you have to double back via the centre. There are more flights to Vilnius (VNO ^IATA).

By road take A8 / E67 north from Kaunas, branching off onto Route 144. E67 continues to Panevėžys and Riga.

Kautra buses run twice an hour from Kaunas, taking an hour to Kėdainiai and continuing north either to Šiauliai or Panevėžys. From Vilnius travel via Kaunas. For timetables and fares see Autobusubilieta.

1 Kėdainiai bus station is south side of town. It's clean and functional enough, with a pizzeria and supermarket adjacent.

Four trains run daily from Vilnius, taking 90 min via Jonava and continuing to Šiauliai and Klaipėda, another 3 hours. For schedules, fares and tickets see LTG Link.

One direct train runs from Kaunas, taking an hour and continuing to Šiauliai, otherwise travel via Vilnius.

2 Kėdainiai railway station is 2 km north of town on Route 195, S Dariaus ir S Girėno gatvė. It's small but even the toilets are kept clean. Boss Kebab outside is open daily to 20:00. While you're here, see the minaret just across the tracks.

Get around

Kėdbusas is the local bus line, plying from the bus station to all outlying districts. Buy tickets on boarding from the driver, or from a kiosk and validate on boarding. You don't need the bus for the compact Old Town, best strolled on foot.

The main taxi firms in town are Taksi Kėdainiai (+370 690 44555) and Taksi Komfort (+370 615 52225).

See

Kėdainiai Old Town

• 1 Holy Transfiguration Church (Viešpaties Atsimainymo cerkvė), Gedimino g 2. Eastern Orthodox church built in 1861 to accommodate the many Russians settling in town. It's richly decorated within but seldom open. (updated Jan 2024)
• 2 St Joseph's Church (Šv Juozapo bažnyčia) on Radvilų gatvė is the most attractive church in town, a wooden structure originally part of a Jesuit mission house. It had spells of disuse or misuse, as a barracks under the Tsars and an equipment store under the Soviets, but is again a Jesuit church.
• Didžioji gatvė is the heart of Old Town, running from Transfiguration Church west past the museum to Great (or New) Market Square. Once you get past the modern supermarket it's lined with traditional architecture.
• Regional Museum (Krašto muziejus), Didžioji g 19, ☏ +370 347 51330. W-F 11:00-18:00, Sa 10:00-17:00, Su 10:00-15:00. Extensive display of local history, much bigger than it looks from the street. Adult €3. (updated Jan 2024)
• 3 St George's Church (Šv Jurgio bažnyčia) on Šėtos gatvė is a Gothic basilica built in the 15th century but rebuilt in 1840. It was originally Lutheran but handed over to the Roman Catholics in 1627. Mass is held at 10:00 and 12:00.
• 4 Multicultural Centre (Daugiakultūris centras), Senosios Rinkos aikštė, ☏ +370 347 51778. W-F 11:00-18:00, Sa 10:00-17:00, Su 10:00-15:00. On Old Market Square, this was completed in 1857 as the "winter synagogue" - smaller and thus more practical to heat than the Great Synagogue adjacent. There's an exhibition on the town's Jewish population, which numbered 3000 until 28 Aug 1941, when the Nazis and their collaborators killed every last one. Adult €3. (updated Jan 2024)
• 5 Great Market Square (Didžiosios Rinkos aikštė) is at the foot of Didžioji gatvė.
• Evangelical Reformed Church (Evangelikų reformatų bažnyčia), built in 1631, is just west of Great Market Square on Senoji gatvė. Its chief feature is the tombs of the Radziwiłł noble family. Opening hours are erratic.

The two synagogues on Old Market Square

• 6 Janina Monkutė-Marks Museum, J Basanavičiaus g 45, ☏ +370 347 57398. W-F 11:00-18:00, Sa 10:00-17:00, Su 10:00-15:00. Contemporary art gallery in a converted farmhouse. Janina Monkutė-Marks (1923-2010) spent most of her art career in Chicago. Free. (updated Jan 2024)
• Kėdainiai minaret is west side of the railway station - you can amble to it across the tracks from the platform. It's 25 m tall in Ottoman style, free-standing and entirely decorative, with no associated mosque or even a single worshipper. It was built by General Eduard Totleben (1818-84) to commemorate his days as military engineer in the Russo-Turkish War of 1877/78, which broke Ottomans control of Bulgaria. One plaque on its wall is in Ottoman Turkish, the other quotes the Koran in Arabic, sura Al-Baqara, verse 255 the "Throne Verse".
• 7 Geographical Centre of Lithuania is the claim of a monument on the lane to Ruoščiai off Route 144. It's set in flat open fields of the North European Plain that could be anywhere from France to Russia, so it's good to have this reassurance that you are in fact in Lithuania.
• 8 Apytalaukis Dvaras is a derelict 19th century mansion off Route 2008 four km north of town. It has a grand exterior, but the interior is utterly trashed and the whole thing may collapse at any moment.
• Šateniai (Polish: Szetejnie) is a tiny village 13 km north of Kėdainiai on Route 2008 east of the river - no access from Route 195 on the west bank. It was the early home of Polish writer Czeslaw Milosz (1911-2004), awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1980. His mansion has burned down, with only the granary surviving, which has been turned into a cultural centre. You need prior arrangements to view the exhibition of his work. It's set in a wooded park with sculptures.

Do

The Minaret by the railway station

• Football: FK Nevėžis play soccer in 1 Lyga, Lithuania's second tier. Their home ground Kėdainiai Stadium (capacity 3000) is 2 km northeast of town centre. The playing season is April-November.
• Agurkų šventė in mid-July is the "cucumber festival" - this region grows lots.
• Ledų šventė first weekend in August is an "ice cream festival" - a promotional event by local producer Vikeda, with concerts, and a helicopter scattering tokens for free ice cream upon the town.

Buy

• Maxima supermarket by the bus station is open daily 08:00-22:00.
• Lidl is nearby at J Basanavičiaus g 87B, open daily 07:00-22:00.
• Norfa and another Maxima are by Transfiguration Church at the entrance to Old Town.

Eat

Restaurants line Didžioji g in Old Town, serving trad Lithuanian fare. They include Greitas maistas, Paulvikta pizza, Novus Rex, Gray's House, Ursule and Beneto Karčema.

Drink

Pulpit in the Evangelical Church

• Old Town cafes serve alcohol, there isn't a free-standing bar.

Sleep

• Grėjaus namas (Gray's House), Didžioji g 36 (opposite St Joseph's church), ☏ +370 347 51500. Comfy place with restaurant in Old Town. Gray was an 18th century Scottish immigrant, and for some reason they didn't rename it when it passed to Burgomaster Valentinovičius. B&B double €60. (updated Jan 2024)
• 1 Smilga, Senoji g 16, ☏ +370 616 78313. Clean efficient hotel, in Old Town but a boxy modern building. B&B double €50. (updated Jan 2024)

Connect

As of Jan 2024, Kėdainiai has 5G from Bite, and 4G from Tele2 and Telia.

Go next

• Kaunas south is mostly modern but has an interesting old quarter.
• Panevėžys north is modern and industrial, but has a museum and several old churches.