Khujand

Khujand (Tajiki: Хуҷанд, Farsi: خجند, also spelt Khojent and called Leninabad in the Soviet period) is a vibrant, cosmopolitan city, and is Tajikistan's second-largest city. Khujand is a cultural hub for the western portion of the Ferghana Valley. During the Soviet Union, Khujand was known as being "Lenin's Favorite City". Whether that was true or just an urban legend is unknown, but a trip to Khujand will certainly be a highlight of your time in Tajikistan.

Understand

Mosaics on the façade of the Khujand Fortress.

Khujand is the second largest city in Tajikistan (191,000 inhabitants in 2019), in the Ferghana Valley on both banks of the Syr Darya river, known in classical sources as the Jaxartes.

Khujand is an old city. It was probably founded by Alexander the Great in 329 BCE as Alexandria Eschate (Furthest Alexandria), although there are reports of the city predating him. It might also have been the site of the ancient Persian city of Cyropolis, which was a major city in Sogdia whose remains still have not been found. Regardless of who founded it, it was here that Alexander defeated the Sakai horsemen (Scythians), and the southern bank of the river marks the northernmost point that Alexander ever got to.

It sits on the historic Silk Road in a strategic position, at the exit of the valley, where it can tax trade and resist invasions. Khujand was a moderately important trading city on that route for centuries, although it always played second fiddle to other Silk Road cities. By the start of the 1800s, Khujand was part of the Khanate of Kokand, which was one of the major pre-Russian political entities in Central Asia. In 1867 the Russians took Khujand from the Khanate; the Khanate itself was absorbed into the Russian Empire in 1876. In 1918, the first violent rebellions against imperial Russians and later Bolsheviks during the Basmachi Revolt started in and around Khujand.

Even though Khujand might be 3000 years old, modern Khujand has very few authentic pre-Soviet historical sites. The only acknowledgement of Alexander is in the form of the major local bank chain, "Esxata Bonk" (Эсхата Бонк), and the fortress you see today, while beautiful, is a contemporary reconstruction. There are a handful of Sufi sites in and around the city, but essentially all of the city is like any other Soviet-built city. Khujand makes a good base of operations for visiting other nearby historical sites, like Istaravshan and Isfara, and it's a 4-hour drive to Panjakent. Its proximity to Tashkent and the Ferghana Valley makes it an easy stopping point on the way to or from Tashkent and eastern Uzbekistan.

Get in

By plane

• 1 Khujand Airport (LBD  ^IATA) (in Buston, Gafurov district, 10 km from Khujand). An international airport, often referred to by the name of the town it's in, Chkalovsk, and formerly known as Leninabad (during the Soviet era). Khujand airport has many flights from Russia. (updated Mar 2024)

There are weekly 40-minute flights from Dushanbe through Somon Air. During the winter months, when the pass between the cities is treacherous (due to snowfall and avalanches), these flights become the safest way to get between the cities.

By bus or taxi

Shared taxis and marshrutkas from Dushanbe, Panjakent, Istaravshan and other southern Tajikistan destinations meet at Avtovokzal (and also depart from there back to those southern destinations).

The ride from Dushanbe cost 120 somoni in a shared taxi (2017). Shared taxis and marshrutkas also arrive from to the town of Isfara, about an hour to the east.

Marshrutkas and taxis to the Uzbekistan border depart from the northern bus station. Taxis to Oybek post should cost about 50-80 somoni.

The road between Khujand and Dushanbe (especially between Istaravshan and Ayni) can be very dangerous in the winter and spring. It is a quintessential mountain pass at upwards of 3000 m in height, with no guardrails or safety corridors. While an absolutely stunning drive, it should not be attempted in bad weather or by those who have a fear of heights. Going north (from Dushanbe, Ayni, or Panjakent to Khujand) is easier than going south (from Khujand to those places) for those with a fear of heights, as you'll spend more time on the inner lane of the pass.

The Kyrgyz-Tajik border has been closed to international travel since the outbreak of hostilities in 2021. But when the border is open, it is easy to get between Osh, Batken, and Khujand. Also, the Khujand-Isfara road is the disputed border between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Check with your embassy before traveling on the road just in case hostilities erupt between the two nations.

Get around

Khujand is a pretty walkable city, although distances may seem shorter on maps than they actually are (the local running club considers a loop that goes from one bridge to the other and back to be 5K). Both of the main bridges across the Syr Darya in the center of town have sidewalks.

By taxi

Taxis start at 9 somoni per ride for short cross-river drives. The average price for a taxi between the "fortress-to-Panjshanbe" region is 12 somoni. Taxis to Somon Bazaar and Avtostantsiya cost 21 somoni. Taxis to the airport (which is in Chkalovsk) cost about 30 somoni. Some of the taxi companies that operate in Dushanbe also operate in Khujand (like Rakhsh), and can be ordered via phone call. Maxim Taxi only operates in Khujand and surrounding villages, and it has a very efficient phone app à la Yandex. It is rare to hail a cab by waving your hand or whistling.

By marshrutka

There are also some minibuses called marshutkas, which can get you from Panjshanbe to many other places such as Somoni Park and Kamoli Khujandi Park. Prices are 2.5 somoni for one adult in 2024. Each marshrutka has a placard in the windows that says the route number and major destinations (in Tajik). For most purposes, the specific number of the route will not matter - instead, look for certain place names:

• Универмаг (Univermag - main shopping street)
• Ёва (Yova - district where many marshrutkas congregate)
• Панҷшанбе (Panjshanbe - main market near Univermag and marshrutka "nest")
• Сомон (Somon - major bazaar)
• Ҷумъа (бозор) - (Jum'a - major market on the north side of the river)
• Автовокзал - (Avtovokzal - where many shared taxis and marshrutkas that go to Istaravshan, Panjakent, and Dushanbe wait)
• Аэропорт/Чкаловск - (Aeroport - Khujand's airport (LBD) in the town of Chkalovsk)
• Кардиалогия - (Kardiologia - The cardiology hospital is a major landmark for routes that go towards the eastern ("Jubilee") bridge.

Be careful at the Panjshanbe marshrutka station: there is a difference between Сомони and Сомон. The former is a city park and the latter is a major clothing bazaar on the outskirts of town and marshrutkas that go to each destination stop at Panjshanbe.

Marshrutkas and taxis that go further afield (like to Istaravshan, Gafurov, and Isfara) congregate in specific areas:

To Istaravshan and south:

• Автовокзал (Avtovokzal)

To Isfara and Konibodom (you pay for these marshrutkas when you disembark):

• Автостанция (Avtostantsiya) — located just before Somon Bazaar on the south end of town

To Buston, Mastchoh, and to find taxis to the Oybek border crossing (going to Tashkent):

• Абрешим (Abreshim)

See

Arbob Palace, where Tajikistan's independence was declared and where the Tajik Civil War was ended, is located in a village not too far from Khujand.

For an almost 3000-year-old city, there are very few historical sites left. Still, Khujand has plenty to offer. Here are some places to see in town:

• 1 Somoni Park, Ave Ismoili Somoni. There is a monument to Ismail Somoni on the right bank of the Syr Darya. It stands on top of a hill surrounded by fountains. As of 2023, the fountains are empty. (updated Oct 2023)
• 2 Mausoleum of Sheikh Muslihiddin (Мавзолей Шейха Муслихиддина), Sharq Street (next to Panjshanbe Bazaar). The resting place of Sheikh Muslihiddin, author of the important Islamic text Sahih e Bukhari. (updated Oct 2023)
• 3 Victory Park (Парк Победы). Home to Khujand's giant Lenin statue and memorials to Khujandis who fought in World War II. In the evenings, it becomes an amusement park for locals. (updated Nov 2023)
• 4 Historical Museum of Sughd Region (Осорхонаи таърихии вилояти Суғд), ☏ +992 92 767 8393. Tu-Su 08:00-16:00, closed M. Possibly the most notable aspect is the building the museum is housed in, the reconstructed Khujand Fortress/citadel from approximately the 10th century, but the museum too is quite remarkable, tracing the history of the area from the time of Alexander the Great. Part of the gallery is built within the reconstructed wall. (updated Aug 2020)
• 5 Kamoli Khujand Park (Боги ба номи К. Худжанди). Site of a mausoleum-like building with earth from the grave of the poet Kamal Khujandi, three music stages with beautiful wooden carvings, springs and a reconstructed house exhibit of a rich Tajik from Khujand. Also where you can catch the tramway (Kanatnaya Doroga) over the river. (updated Aug 2020)
• 6 Arbob Palace (Дворец культуры «Арбоб»). A government building that was built in the 1950s as headquarters for a Soviet kolkhoz (collective farm). It was modeled after the Winter Palace in Saint Petersburg and is where the independence of Tajikistan and flag design were drafted. (updated Aug 2020)
• 7 Independence day monument. A stele next to the river and a very tall Tajik flagpole. Just to the east of here is a monument to the illustrious poet Rudaki, a founder of classical Persian literature. (updated Aug 2020)
• 8 Stella Khujand (Стелла Хуҷанд), Prospekt Tashkentskiy (in the middle of the roundabout). Not really something to "do" (although there is a seating area inside), but this observation tower modeled after the Tajik crown symbol makes a good reference point, as it is visible from most of the central city. (updated Nov 2023)
• 9 Kamoli Khujandi Theatre (Театри ба номи Камоли Хуҷанди), Teatral'nyy Skver. The local theater, located on the main square across from the fortress and Kamoli Khujandi Park.. (updated Nov 2023)
• Cultural Center Interesting building in a pseudo-ancient (and also bling-bling) style for weddings and cultural parties of the city. It is on the left river bank beside the main bridge.

The part of town north of the river is mainly Soviet- and contemporary era residential/commercial, with little interest to the traveler. However, the 10 Nur-i Islom Mosque (Нури Ислом). (updated Nov 2023), one of the city's largest and nicest, is located on the north side. Women are not allowed in the mosque.

Do

• 1 Kanatnaya Doroga (Канатная дорога). daily 10:00-22:00. Ride an aerial tramway between Kamoli Khujand Park and Somoni Park, over the Syr Darya River. It is right next to the Sugdiyon Hotel. 15 somoni for "standard", 20 somoni for "deluxe" (a loveseat instead of a bench). (updated Nov 2023)

There may periodically be river cruises along the Syr Darya that are offered. It is not recommended to swim in the Syr Darya. The currents can be deceptively strong, and the water is polluted. You might see locals fishing in the river though.

The city has many parks that locals hang out at that are nice for killing a few hours in.

Haggle (or try to) with locals in one of the many bazaars.

Most tourists use Khujand as a jumping-off point for trips into the Fann mountains, where there is a lot of hiking and natural attractions.

Buy

If your Tajik and/or Russian skills are particularly good, it's worth spending the better portion of a day at 1 Panjshanbe Bazaar. (updated Nov 2023). Here, you can get a wide variety of local Tajik produce, meats, clothing (imported from China or Turkey), pets/pet products, kitchen supplies, and more.

The interior of the main hall at Panjshanbe Bazaar.

The 2 Jum'a Bazaar. (updated Nov 2023) and the 3 Somon Bazaar. (updated Nov 2023) are the other major shopping centers in Khujand, although they will most likely be of little interest to the traveler, since they primarily sell appliances (Jum'a) and generic clothing (Somon). If, however, you are in urgent need of a new washing machine or pair of shoes, they are great places to get good deals.

4 Univermag. (updated Nov 2023) region is host to a smattering of stores that range in theme and quality. A large amount of these will be no different than the stores in your hometown, but if you're a shopaholic, it's a good street to walk down and window shop. It is the street that connects Khujandi Park with Panjshanbe, so it can easily be strolled on the way to/from Panjshanbe.

Eat

Locals claim that they have the best food in all of Tajikistan! While you may (or may not) agree, it certainly is worth trying. The Khujandi version of plov (called "Osh" in the city) is very similar to the Samarkandi style, as opposed to the Dushanbe style found in the southern half of the country. There are numerous small restaurants and cafés throughout the town, as well as street vendors.

During Ramadan, expect all of the following to be closed until around Iftar (the sunset prayer), at which point they all become incredibly crowded with locals heading out to eat. Grocery stores and a decent number of the food vendors at the bazaars remain open during the day.

Budget

• Taj Burger - a local fast food chain, there are Taj Burgers on almost every block. They serve burgers, fries, pizza, and shawarma.
• 1 Cafe Suman (Кафе "Суман"), Yagodka Street, ☏ +992 927871116. Daily 07:00–21:00. A large cafeteria popular with locals. Serves generic Russian and Tajik food (borscht, shchi, meats, salads, etc.) for a very low cost. About 20 somoni for a full meal. (updated Nov 2023)
• 2 World of Shish-Kabobs (Sikhkabobi Mir, Сихкабоби Мир), Prospekt Rakhim Dzhalilya, ☏ +992 929282888. Daily 09:00–22:00. A restaurant that specializes in serving shish-kabobs. (updated Nov 2023)

Ramadan Ramadan is the 9th and holiest month in the Islamic calendar and lasts 29–30 days. Muslims fast every day for its duration and most restaurants will be closed until the fast breaks at dusk. Nothing (including water and cigarettes) is supposed to pass through the lips from dawn to sunset. Non-Muslims are exempt from this, but should still refrain from eating or drinking in public as this is considered very impolite. Working hours are decreased as well in the corporate world. Exact dates of Ramadan depend on local astronomical observations and may vary somewhat from country to country. Ramadan concludes with the festival of Eid al-Fitr, which may last several days, usually three in most countries. 11 March – 9 April 2024 (1445 AH) 1 March – 29 March 2025 (1446 AH) 18 February – 19 March 2026 (1447 AH) 8 February – 8 March 2027 (1448 AH) If you're planning to travel to Khujand during Ramadan, consider reading Travelling during Ramadan.

Mid-range

• 3 Zaytun (Зайтун) (above the AMID grocery store), ☏ +992 928834444. Daily 07:00–23:00. A restaurant serving traditional Tajik food in a faux traditional Tajik setting (walls with Silk Road motifs and fake plants hanging from the ceiling). The food is excellent. (updated Nov 2023)
• 4 Saray (Сарай) (as of 2023, it is hidden behind new construction; take the road that passes through the construction site and you'll find the restaurant), ☏ +992 934447730. Daily 10:00–23:00. A good Turkish restaurant on the north side of the river. As of 2023, there is a new apartment building being built in front of the restaurant, so you have to take the road through the construction site to find the restaurant (there are signs posted telling you how to get to the restaurant). (updated Nov 2023)
• 5 Oshi Palov (Оши Палов) (next to the Nur-i Islom mosque), ☏ +992 929998008. Daily 08:00–21:00. A fancy restaurant next to the Nur-i Islom mosque (the main mosque on the north side of the river). You can only get plov/osh here plus tea and bread, but it's the best place in town to try the Khujandi variety of plov. It gets extremely packed on Fridays between 11:30 and 14:30 (Friday prayers are generally around 13:00). about 20 somoni for a 2-person meal with bread and tea. (updated Nov 2023)
• 6 Golden Fish (Ресторан Golden Fish), Аминчон Расулов 1а, ☏ +992 990080707. Daily 10:00–00:00. A restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. Offers fish dishes, pastas, soups, and kebabs. (updated Nov 2023)

Splurge

• 7 Omar Khayyam (Ресторан "Омар Хайям") (entrance next to the hotel entrance off the patio), ☏ +992 925550808. Daily 07:00–22:00. The finest dining in Khujand. Despite the name, the restaurant serves Georgian food, in addition to standard Tajik food and pizza. A good place to take guests. Located on the main square in the Omar Khayyam Hotel. ca. 200 somoni for a 2-person meal with drinks.. (updated Nov 2023)

• 8 Fоrel' (Форель) (adjacent to the "Jubilee" bridge on the north side of the river), ☏ +992 111307777. Daily 08:00–23:00. An upscale restaurant with a fish-focused theme (Forel' means "trout" in Russian). Has lots of meat and seafood dishes at a good price. If you want a full fish, call ahead unless you want to wait a while. (updated Nov 2023)

Drink

There aren't many nightclubs or bars in Khujand, but alcohol stores can be found on most streets. Prices are generally slightly cheaper than in countries like the US or most of Europe, but the quality may reflect that. Most "sit-down" style restaurants will serve alcohol, but "fast food" style ones (like burger/shwarma/pizza joints) will not.

Being a former Soviet country, Tajikistan is a good place to find Georgian wines. There are also Tajik-made alcohols, although they are nowhere near as good quality as French wines, Russian vodkas, or Irish whiskeys.

Coffee shops

• 1 CoffeeMoose (Behind the Drama Theater). M-Sa 8:00-23:00, Su 10:00-23:00. A quaint coffee shop that also has locations in Dushanbe. Serves various coffees and breakfast foods for a reasonable price and provides a nice atmosphere in which to enjoy them. (updated Jul 2024)

There is a chain of donut stores called Орзуи Ширин (Orzui Shirin) that has a few locations across the city. They are open 24-7 except during Ramadan. They serve coffee and various baked goods.

The largest Vladimir Lenin statue in Central Asia is waiting for you in Khujand!

Sleep

Budget and Mid-range

• 1 Ehson Hotel (Эҳсон), ☏ +992 987075989. An older hotel that is definitely showing its age, this hotel serves more as a landmark for visitors than as a place to stay. It is located right where the two roads that go to/from the two bridges converge, so it must be passed by anyone who is entering the city. (updated Jul 2024)
• 2 Kheson (Хесон) (Across the plaza from the Univermag marshrutka stops), ☏ +992 927072318. A nice hotel located in the heart of Khujand's shopping district (Univermag) and not far from the main bridge across the river. Easily noticeable from the main street. (updated Jul 2024)
• 3 Somoni-Hostel, Ave Ismoili Somoni 7a, ☏ +992 92 621 7887. If you're looking for something very budget, this might work. Might be kind of basic but location is good, next to museum and parks and river, plus there's breakfast. 186 som. (updated Aug 2020)
• 4 Sugdiyon (Сугдиён), ☏ +992 92 444 1444. Affordable Western-style hotel located in the heart of the city, near the Citadel and the Rudaki monument. Rooms show their age, but probably has the best location in the city. Also has a pool and sauna in the basement for both guests and outsiders (charged different fees). Usually lit up at night so can serve as a landmark while exploring the town. (updated Oct 2023)
• 5 Vahdat Hotel (Ваҳдат) (On the central square between the Theater and the Qala (Fortress)), ☏ +992 888880161. An older (Soviet-era) hotel on the central plaza. Various cafés surround the hotel, and the second floor facade has an excellent Soviet mosaic that should not be missed. (updated Jul 2024)

Splurge

• 6 Firuz Hotel (Фируз), Lenina Street 223, ☏ +992 928672222. Another modern hotel located right after you pass the sign that welcomes you to Khujand (when coming from the south). Its main downside is that it is rather far from all of the major tourist sites. С850 and up for a double room. (updated Jul 2024)
• 7 Khujand Grand Hotel (Худжанд Гранд Отель) (On the main plaza between the Theater and the Qala (Fortress)), ☏ +992 926010599. Probably the most modern hotel in Khujand. It's location on the main square and across the street from the entrance to the Qala makes it popular with travelers. The hotel is the site of the Omar Khayyam restaurant, which also serves as the restaurant for the hotel's guests. About С800 per night and up. (updated Jul 2024)
• 8 Parliament Palace (МГК "Гостиница Парламент"), Sir-darya Street 28, ☏ +992 937710700. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. The high-end hotel in the city, located on the north bank of the Syr Darya river. Around 900 somoni per night. (updated Nov 2023)

Connect

There are a plethora of T-Cell and Megafon stores and kiosks in the city. If you haven't already acquired a Tajik SIM card, you can go to any of the stores and get one (you'll need your passport for registration). You can also use any orange kiosk to add funds to your account.

There are ATMs virtually everywhere, but the most trustworthy are connected to banks. Esxata Bank (Эсхата Бонк) and Dushanbe-City (Душанбе-Сити) are abundant in the city. Amonatbonk (Амонатбонк) is also prevalent.

Go next

Khujand is about a 2 hour's drive from Tashkent, and many people visit the city on the way to or from the Uzbek capital. To get to the Oybek border post (the one that goes to Tashkent), take a marshrutka or taxi to Abreshim station, where you can find a plethora of taxi drivers waiting to take you to the border. It should cost С40-50 per person. As of 2024, no marshrutkas go directly to the border (but some go to Buston and to Mastchoh, where you might be able to find a ride to the border).

To the east the Kairakum reservoir is located near the city of Guliston (not to be confused with the same-named city in Uzbekistan). Marshrutkas run to Guliston, but you may prefer to take a taxi.

Marshutkas go to Istaravshan, Isfara, and the neighboring towns of Chkalovsk (where the airport is), Buston, and Histevarz. For further afield (like to Panjakent), you'll want to take a shared taxi (they pool at the same places that the marshrutkas wait).

Dushanbe: There are only shared taxis going from Khujand to Dushanbe. The cost seems to vary between С60 and 120 depending on the time of day, week, waiting time and type of car. The roads have been much improved from 2005, and a 2WD is (May 2019) as good as a 4WD. Drivers do not tend to rip tourists off for this route as the competition is so high. Haggling is possible within about С20 on any given day. The drive takes 4-5 hours depending on whether the drivers stop for lunch, and the views of the Fann Mountains are stunning. Talk of the Anzob Tunnel being risky is outdated, the infrastructure in the "Tunnel of Death" is improved now and its reputation is no longer deserved, although cycling or walking through would be a very bad idea.