Olympic National Park is a national park and UNESCO World Heritage Site in Washington State. The park interior encompasses one of the largest remaining blocks of old-growth forest and temperate rain forest in the lower 48 states, and the park's coastline protects 73 mi (117 km) of rocky headlands, beaches, and tidepools.
Understand
editThere are two non-contiguous sections of the park: the large central area encompassing the Olympic Mountains, and the coastal area where the west edge of the Olympic Peninsula meets the Pacific Ocean.
History
editPrior to the influx of European settlers, the population consisted of Native Americans, whose use of the peninsula was thought to have consisted mainly of fishing and hunting. However, reviews of the record, coupled with systematic archaeological surveys of the mountains (Olympic and other Northwest ranges) are pointing to much more extensive tribal use of especially the subalpine meadows than seemed to have been the case. Most if not all Pacific Northwest indigenous cultures were adversely affected by European diseases (often decimated) and other factors, well before ethnographers, business operations and settlers arrived in the region, so what they saw and recorded was a much-reduced native culture-base. Large numbers of cultural sites are now identified in the Olympic mountains, and important artifacts have been found.
When settlers began to appear, extractive industry in the Pacific Northwest was on the rise, particularly in regards to the harvesting of timber, which began heavily in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Public dissent against logging began to take hold in the 1920s, when people got their first glimpses of the clear-cut hillsides. This period saw an explosion of people's interest in the outdoors; with the growing use of the automobile, people took to touring previously remote places like the Olympic Peninsula.
The formal record of a proposal for a new national park on the Olympic Peninsula begins with the expeditions of well-known figures Lieutenant Joseph O'Neil and Judge James Wickersham, during the 1890s. These notables met in the Olympic wilderness while exploring, and subsequently combined their political efforts to have the area placed within some protected status. Following unsuccessful efforts in the Washington State Legislature in the early 1900s, President Theodore Roosevelt created Mount Olympus National Monument in 1909, primarily to protect the subalpine calving grounds and summer range of the Roosevelt elk herds native to the Olympics.
Public desire for preservation of some of the area grew until President Franklin D. Roosevelt declared ONP a national park in 1938.
It was further designated as an International Biosphere Reserve in 1976, and evolved into a World Heritage Park in 1981.
Landscape
editOlympic Mountains
editFrom the 7,980-foot (2,430 m) summit of Mount Olympus, the Pacific Ocean shimmers in the distance, less than 33 miles (53 km) west. Between the highest peak in the Olympic Mountain range and sea, mountains and valleys radiate like spokes on a wheel. Above treeline, a jumble of rugged glacier-capped peaks are decorated with meadows and lakes. Most of the area's endemic plants and animals are found in these high elevation ecosystems. Below treeline, scattered subalpine forests give way to steep forested slopes ending in broad, U-shaped valleys.
the rock that makes up the Olympics began 49-56 million years ago, as a massive basalt eruption deep under the ocean. This terrane was soon pushed up against the North American continent, and after resisting subduction for a long period, was eventually pushed up above sea level about 18 million years ago. The result is a range highly folded sedimentary and metamorphic rock, in contrast to the nearby Cascades.
Rivers & lakes
editWater defines Olympic National Park. In cloud form it delivers abundant rain and snow. As frozen glaciers it sculpts the peaks. In snow-melt rivulets it waters mountain meadows then feeds powerful rivers rushing to the sea. Alpine tarns perch on peaks and several huge lakes lie in the lowlands. These streams, rivers and lakes are a circulatory system—life-blood of the park's diversity.
Rivers radiate out from the central mountains like spokes on a wheel. On the park's west side, valleys are broad and U-shaped and rivers meander over wide floodplains. On other sides, the rivers are often constricted into narrow, steep-walled valleys. With protected headwaters, these are healthy, dynamic watersheds where natural processes like flooding, log jams, and nutrient cycling prevail.
Linking ocean and land ecosystems, rivers and streams provide a highway for fish and other wildlife to move both up and downstream. As fish swim upstream to spawn and later die, they bring with them vital nutrients from the sea, replenishing the forest in ways that science has only recently defined.
Forests
editOlympic National Park was established in 1938 in part to preserve some of Washington's quickly disappearing primeval forests.
- "to preserve... the finest sample of primeval forests of Sitka spruce, western hemlock, Douglas fir, and western red-cedar in the entire United States...."
Today, the park protects one of the largest remaining blocks of old-growth forest and temperate rain forest in the lower 48 states.
Old-growth forests are forests where there are no clearly visible indications of human disturbance. These forests are ecosystems with unique biodiversity, that takes centuries to restore from logged land. Some areas in the park nurture trees that sprouted when the Mayan culture was thriving in the jungles of Central America. The diverse forests of the park (and neighboring wilderness areas) are rare islands of original habitat surrounded by altered landscapes.
Temperate rain forests form in mid-latitude regions receiving over 55 inches (140 cm) of precipitation. The nearby Pacific Ocean dumps up to 15 ft (4.6 m) of rain per year in the valleys on the west side of the park. Enormous Sitka spruce and Douglas fir tower hundreds of feet high, as thick, furry epiphyte moss and dense, vibrant vegetation create a beautiful, almost "Tolkien-esqe" environment.
This diversity forms a dynamic green canvas from tree line to coast. Heavy snow, avalanches, fire, wind storms, landslides and flooding all interact to rearrange the colors or reset the clock. But the resulting forests are a vibrant, ever-changing palette of greens, textures, species and ages.
Coast
editOlympic National Park's 73-mile (117 km)-long wilderness coast is a rare treasure in a country where much of the coastline is prime real estate. The rocky headlands, beaches, tidepools nurturing a living rainbow of colors and textures, off shore sea stacks topped by nesting seabirds and wind-sheared trees-all are a remnant of a wilder America. In fact, in 1988, Congress added much of the narrow coastal strip of the park (and much of the rest of the park) to a national system of designated wilderness.
The intertidal areas, where the Pacific Ocean tides shape life, are also within the boundary of the Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary. The offshore islands with their colonies of nesting seabirds and rocky haulouts for seals and sea lions, lie within the Washington Maritime National Wildlife Refuge Complex.
Peer into a tidepool and your view may take in hundreds of animals crowded into an area the size of a dinner plate. Cold, nutrient-rich waters upwelling from the Pacific Ocean floor feed a food chain extending from tiny invertebrates to many-ton whales. In the intertidal, that abundance is stacked in layers determined by the tides, competition and the reach of predatory neighbors. Each species tends to thrive in only a certain narrow band of habitat, rarely straying above or below.
Flora and fauna
editThe isolated Olympic Peninsula harbors a unique community of wildlife, noteworthy not only for endemic animals (found only here), but also for species missing from the Olympics, yet found elsewhere in western mountains. Pika, ptarmigan, ground squirrels, lynx, wolverine, grizzly bears, bighorn and historically, mountain goats did not occur on the Olympic Peninsula. While unique species like the Olympic marmot, Olympic snow mole and Olympic torrent salamander are found here and nowhere else in the world! Unfortunately, like most places in the world, non-native species introduced by humans have also spread to the park. Wildlife listed below have been observed in Olympic National Park:
Marine mammals
editNearshore
edit- Sea otter, Enhydra lutris
- River otter, Lutra canadensis
Rocky intertidal
edit- Harbor seal, Phoca vitulina
- Northern Fur Seal, Callorhinus ursinus
Occasional
edit- Steller sea lion, Eumetopias jubatus
- California sea lion, Zalophus californianus
- Northern elephant seal, Mirounga angustirostris
- Gray whale, Eschrichtius robustus
Spring and fall
edit- Minke whale, Balaenoptera acutorostrata
Summer and fall
edit- Humpback whale, Megaptera novaeangliae
Fall
edit- Harbor porpoise, Phocoena phocoena
Summer
edit- Orca or Killer whale, Orcinus orca
Summer and fall
edit- Dall’s porpoise, Phocoenoides dalli
- Pacific white sided dolphin, Lagenorhynchus obliquidens
Climate
editOverall, the Olympic Peninsula has a moderate marine climate with pleasant summers and mild, wet winters. The Olympic Mountains, part of North America's western coast range, rise suddenly from near sea level to ~8,000 feet (2,400 m), intercepting Pacific moisture which is dumped as large amounts of rain. The climate grows wetter from east to west on the Olympic Peninsula. Sunny days are likeliest in July and August. Nearby Sequim is actually in the rain shadow of the Olympics and is known for sunny days and minimal rain.
Summers tend to be fair and warm, with high temperatures between 65 °F (18 °C) and 75 °F (24 °C). July, August and September are the driest months, with heavier precipitation during the rest of the year.
Winters are mild at lower elevation, with temperatures ranging from 36 °F (2 °C) at night to 48 °F (9 °C) during the day. Snow is rare at low elevations and melts quickly, however snowfall can be heavy in the mountains, with accumulations of up to 10 feet (3.0 m) common.
The park, and many of its attractions, are open year-round. However, the mountainous interior receives substantial snowfall, so higher-elevation locations like Hurricane Ridge will be less accessible between November and May. While summer has the most pleasant weather, moisture is an integral part of the Olympic experience; drizzle makes the lushness of the rain forests pop, and many visitors enjoy sitting on a remote beach to watch the weather roll from the ocean. Regional hikers enjoy the Olympics in the spring, as the trails melt out earlier than in the Cascades, and the eastern slopes are in a rain shadow.
Visitor information
edit- Park website
- 1 Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center (at the terminus of the Upper Hoh Road, which is accessible via Highway 101, south of Forks). Located in the Hoh Rain Forest. The visitor center is open daily during the summer and intermittently during the winter. Educational exhibits and informational brochures available.
- 2 Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center (closed) (at the terminus of Hurricane Ridge Road, which is accessed from the city of Port Angeles via Mount Angeles Road). This visitor center burned down on May 7 2023. Access to the area is limited to the first 345 vehicles of the day. The only available facilities are portable toilets. Please see National Park Service website for the most recent updates.
- 3 Olympic National Park Visitor Center. Main visitor center for Olympic National Park. Open daily year-round; times vary by season. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Educational exhibits and brochures available.
Ranger stations
edit- 4 Quinault Rain Forest Ranger Station (along the North Shore Road in the Quinault Rain Forest, which is accessible via Highway 101), ☏ +1 360 288-0232. Quinault Rain Forest Ranger Station is open intermittently during the summer and closed during the rest of the year. Educational exhibits and informational brochures available.
- Olympic National Park/Olympic National Forest Recreation Information Station (in Forks), ☏ +1 360 374-7566.
- Staircase Ranger Station (Northwest of Hoodsport; it is accessed by Highway 119, which will then turn into an unpaved road. Highway 119 connects to Highway 101 in Hoodsport), ☏ +1 360 877-5569. Staircase Ranger Station is open intermittently during the summer and closed during winter. Informational brochures available.
Get in
editPort Angeles is the principal service city for the park. Unless otherwise specified, these directions will get you heading towards Port Angeles.
The park is huge; the directions here may not be the most direct way to other corners of the park, such as Lake Cushman and Lake Quinault.
By car
editUS-101 runs near the east, north, and west edges of the Olympic Mountains, forming an incomplete ring road. From US-101, a number of roads extend into the park: Hurricane Ridge, Elwha, Sol Doc, Hoh, and Quinault. US-101 also runs near and along the coast, providing access to Kalaloch, La Push, Cape Alava and Neah Bay.
From Olympia and points south on I-5: Take US-101 north along Hood Canal.
From Aberdeen and points south on the coast: Take US-101 north along the coast.
From Tacoma: Take WA-16 and cross the Tacoma Narrows Bridge to the Kitsap Peninsula, then continue west. At WA-3, turn south to access the south parts of the park, or north to access the north parts of the park.
From Seattle and Seattle-Tacoma International Airport:
- Drive the entire way: This is usually the fastest option, as long as you avoid I-5 during rush hour. Head south on I-5 to Tacoma, take Exit 132B for WA-16 and follow the "From Tacoma" directions from there.
- Take a ferry across Puget Sound: This does not usually save much time, but it replaces a few hours of driving with a leisurely ride across the water.
- From West Seattle: take the ferry to Southworth and continue north.
- From Seattle: take the ferry to Bainbridge Island or Bremerton and continue north.
- From north of Seattle: take the Edmonds ferry to Kingston and continue west.
From Anacortes or Whidbey Island: take the Coupeville ferry to Port Townsend and continue west.
The ferries are run by the Washington State Department of Transportation. The ferries usually run roughly every 50 minutes. The line to get on a ferry can be backed up for two or three hours, particularly in the summer when people are heading off or returning from their vacations on the Olympic Peninsula. If you can, avoid heading west on Friday afternoons and east on Sunday evenings.
By ferry
editA private ferry company runs a route between Victoria, BC and Port Angeles.
- Coho Ferry (Black Ball Ferry Line). Feb-Dec, 1-4 sailings per day. $22.50/person, $76.50/person+vehicle.
By plane
editThe nearest domestic airport for commercial flights is Seattle Tacoma International Airport (SEA IATA) in Seattle.
Another nearby commercial airport is Victoria, BC (YYJ IATA). Once there, take a ferry to Port Angeles.
By bus
editThere's transit options from the major Puget Sound cities to Port Angeles, the hub for infrequent bus routes connecting the towns along the north and west sections of US-101. There's also transit to Port Townsend, the hub for infrequent bus routes running down the east section of US-101. However, many of the park's top attractions are not on the highway and thus have no bus service, so relying on public transit will greatly limit where you can go.
By foot
editThe Pacific Northwest Trail, an east-west long-distance hiking trail that runs from Glacier National Park in Montana to Cape Alava, enters the park in the northeast, near Marmot Pass.
Fees and permits
editEntrances fees are valid for seven days, allowing unlimited re-entry for the week. Fees as of 2024 are:
- $15 per person and bicyclist
- $25 motorcycle
- $30 vehicle (non-commercial)
- $55 Olympic National Park Annual Pass
Park entrance fees may be waived for school group visits when class curriculum relates to park resources.
Driving US-101 does not require an entrance fee, and fees are not checked at a few places where the highway enters the park, such as Kalaloch and Lake Crescent.
There are several passes for groups traveling together in a private vehicle or individuals on foot/bike that provide free entry to Olympic National Park and all national parks, as well as some national monuments, national wildlife refuges, and national forests:
- The $80 Annual Pass (valid for twelve months from date of issue) can be purchased by anyone. Military personnel can obtain a free pass by showing a Common Access Card (CAC) or Military ID.
- The $80 Senior Pass (valid for the life of the holder) is available to U.S. citizens or permanent residents age 62 or over. Applicants must provide documentation of citizenship and age. This pass also provides a 50% discount on some park amenities. Seniors can also obtain a $20 annual pass.
- The free Access Pass (valid for the life of the holder) is available to U.S. citizens or permanent residents with permanent disabilities. Applicants must provide documentation of citizenship and permanent disability. This pass also provides a fifty percent discount on some park amenities.
- The free Volunteer Pass is available to individuals who have volunteered 250 or more hours with federal agencies that participate in the Interagency Pass Program.
- The free Annual 4th Grade Pass (valid for September to August of the 4th grade school year) allows entry to the bearer and any accompanying passengers in a private non-commercial vehicle. Registration at the Every Kid Outdoors website is required.
The National Park Service offers free admission to all national parks on five days every year:
- Martin Luther King Jr. Day (third Monday in January); next observance is January 20, 2025
- The first day of National Park Week (third Saturday in April); next observance is April 19, 2025
- The National Park Service Birthday (August 25)
- National Public Lands Day (fourth Saturday in September); next observance is September 28, 2024
- Veterans Day (November 11)
Olympic National Forest
editThe U.S. Forest Service administers some of the land bordering the national park, including many outer trailheads to destinations inside the park, as the Olympic National Forest. These areas use a separate fee system. The various nationwide National Park Service passes (such as the "America the Beautiful" Annual Pass) are also valid on USFS land, but the Olympic National Park-only permits are not valid. The other option is the Northwest Forest Pass ($5/day, $30/year).
Tribal land
editSeveral Indian Reservations border or overlap with the park. Accessing the park from the Makah Reservation, which borders the north edge of the park's coastline at Shi Shi Beach, requires a Makah Reservation Recreational Permit.
Get around
editBy car
editBy car is the most practical way to get around. US-101 makes a loop of the Olympic Peninsula, and is the only road that connects different areas of the park. US-101 enters the park boundaries only for brief stretches; most access is from spur roads leading into the park.
- Hoh Rain Forest is between Forks and the coast, 18 mi (29 km) down Upper Hoh Rd.
- La Push and Rialto Beach are just north of Forks, 10 mi (16 km) down WA-110.
- Hurricane Ridge is out of Port Angeles, 19 mi (31 km) down Hurricane Ridge Rd. All vehicles traveling to Hurricane Ridge during the winter season (November - April) are required to carry tire chains.
- Quilcene and the east side can be accessed from a variety of roads along the Hood Canal portion of US-101.
- Staircase is out of Hoodsport, 16 mi (26 km) down WA-119.
The best way to see the park is to "do the loop", driving along US-101 from Aberdeen to Olympia in either direction. This takes a minimum of six hours of driving, and most people will want three or four days to explore the most popular areas of the park. For many visitors, the highlight is the coastal section along US-101 between Aberdeen and Forks, including Kalaloch Campground, the Hoh Rain Forest, Rialto Beach, and the hike to Ozette. The next most popular area is Hurricane Ridge, the highest area in the park accessible by road.
The park is huge, so plan travel times carefully. You don't want to spend all your time on the road.
By bus
editThere is only one destination within the park with easy and frequent mass transit access:
- 1 Hurricane Ridge Shuttle, 123 E Front Street, Port Angeles (at Gateway Transit Center). Memorial Day to Labor Day. Hourly shuttle between Port Angeles and Hurricane Ridge. $1 each way, $2 round trip.
There is limited bus service connecting the towns along US-101, and a few of these routes make stops near a point of interest. (See bus information for the Olympic Peninsula for a comprehensive list of routes.)
- Clallam Transit, ☏ +1 360-452-4511, toll-free: +1-800-858-3747. Operates buses in Port Angeles (Rt #20-24), Joyce (#10), Forks (Rt#14 - 17), Neah Bay (Rt#16), La Push (#15) and Sequim (Rt#30-52) in Clallam County. Connects to Jefferson Transit in Sequim and Forks.
- Bus Route 14 Port Angeles - Forks makes a stop at Lake Crescent.
- Bus Route 15 Forks - La Push will get you walking distance to First Beach, Second Beach, and Third Beach.
- Jefferson Transit. Operates local buses in Port Townsend (2, 3, 4, 11) and to Brinnon (1), Quilcene, Sequim (Rt #8), Port Ludlow, Poulsbo (Rt #7) and a separate 'Olympic Connector' bus between Forks and Amanda Mercantile along Hwy 101 through Jefferson County. Free ride, $8 for #14 bus.
- Olympic Connector Amanda Mercantile - Forks stops at Kalaloch and Lake Quinault.
By foot
editThere are no roads through the interior of Olympic National Park. In fact, 96% of Olympic National Park is incorporated into the Olympic Wilderness, making it one of the greatest roadless patches in the lower 48 states. Instead, the park is crisscrossed with a network of hiking and backpacking trails, making it a hikers' paradise.
See
editOlympic Mountains
editThe interior section of the park covers the Olympic Mountains, a broad cluster of mountains perforated by steep valleys of ancient forests, largely inhospitable to roads, loggers, and most other forms of development.
Clockwise from southwest to southeast, along US-101:
- 1 Quinault Valley (In the southwestern area of the park, about a three-hour drive from Port Angeles and one hour from Forks). A wilderness gateway to alpine meadows, jeweled lakes and ice-carved peaks. The valley has a scenic loop drive and trails through temperate rain forest in both Olympic National Park and Olympic National Forest. The Quinault Valley has a number of short hiking trails, including a 1.3-mile (2.1 km) loop to the old Kestner homestead, and another that winds through groves of bigleaf maples. More info can be found through the Quinault Rain Forest Ranger Station. The Quinault Valley ends at Lake Quinault.
- 2 Queets Corridor. To preserve nearly an entire glacially carved rain forest river valley from source to sea, President Truman added the narrow Queets corridor to Olympic National Park in 1953. Glaciers and snow on Mount Olympus feed the Queets River on its descent to the Pacific. This quiet area is popular place to spot wildlife including salmon, deer and elk.
- 3 Hoh Rain Forest (From US-101 south of Forks, 12 miles (19 km) or so east on Upper Hoh Rd). 140 in (3,600 mm) of precipitation each year fosters a lush, green canopy of old-growth trees and a floor blanked with thick mosses and ferns. Watch for herds of elk in the area, roll down the window (even if it is raining) and take in the smell of what seems a recently drained underwater world. Stop by the visitor center, walk the Hall of Moss interpretive trail, or hike further along the Hoh River all the way to Mount Olympus.
- 4 Sol Duc Valley (In the northwest region of the park. About 30 mi (48 km) west of Port Angeles, turn off US-101 onto Sol Duc Rd). Old-growth forest, sub-alpine lakes, and snowy peaks populate the Sol Duc landscape, while the Sol Duc River serves as a key highway for coho salmon, running through the valley and ascending to the lakes and headwaters in the surrounding mountains. The Salmon Cascades overlook is a popular destination during late October/early November. About 5 miles (8.0 km) down the Sol Duc Road, visitors come to watch the determined coho salmon leap over the falls on their way to spawn upstream in the Sol Duc River.
- 5 Lake Crescent (about 18 miles (29 km) west of Port Angeles). Nestled in the northern foothills of the Olympic Mountains, the pristine waters of this deep, glacially carved lake make it an ideal destination for those in search of natural beauty.
A massive landslide isolated Lake Crescent from Lake Sutherland approximately 7,000 years ago. There are two uniquely adapted populations, the Crescenti and Beardslee trout, that resulted from genetic isolation following this event.
There are plenty of picnic areas around the lake. Fairholme, Bovee's Meadow, La Poel, and the North Shore all have tables.
Many people enjoy going out onto the water during the summer and fall. Boat launches are located at both east and west ends of the lake. Rowboats are available for rental from Lake Crescent Lodge.
- 6 Elwha (In the northern area of the park. From US-101 11 miles (18 km) west of Port Angeles, via Olympic Hot Springs Rd). The Olympic Peninsula's largest watershed. Prior to the construction of two dams in the early 1900s, it was known for its impressive salmon returns. Today, the dams are gone, and the Elwha River is now one of the largest ecosystem restoration projects in National Park Service history. The Olympic Hot Springs Road and Whiskey Bend Road offer sightseeing opportunities through the valley's lowland and montane forests, as well as access to two picnic areas and a number of hiking trails. Stop to see Madison Creek Falls, a quick walk with superb views of the gushing Elwha River to the falls, with poems in between.
- 7 Hurricane Ridge (17 miles south of Port Angeles on Hurricane Ridge Rd, off Mount Angeles Rd). Hurricane Ridge is the most easily accessed mountain area within Olympic National Park. In clear weather, fantastic views can be enjoyed throughout the year. Hurricane Ridge has a number of hiking trails, from ridgetop traverses to steep trails that descend to subalpine lakes and valleys. Obstruction Point Road (weather and snow permitting, open from July 4 through October 15), branches off right before the Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center, and provides access to a variety of trails as well.
Hurricane Ridge can be enjoyed throughout the year. During the winter months, snow enthusiasts enjoy the winter scenery, along with snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and sledding. Ranger-guided snowshoe walks are offered on the weekends and are a popular way to explore and learn about the Ridge's winter environment. Weather permitting, the Hurricane Ridge Winter Sports Club operates two rope tows and a Poma lift.
During the spring, wildflowers cover the ground of the subalpine meadows and blacktail deer are often spotted grazing. Sunrise and sunset on a clear day provide magnificent panoramic views of the park. - 8 Staircase (In the southeastern corner of the park, about a one-hour drive from Olympia, and two hours south of Port Angeles). Enormous trunks reach for the sky, lacy limbs stretch to the sun, grooved bark is sanctuary to tiny creatures in the vast cathedral of Douglas-firs that dominate the forests on this side of the Olympic Peninsula. A variety of hiking trails navigate through the Staircase area along the Skokomish River and the nearby forests.
Olympic Coast
editFor thousands of marine species, these coastal waters are a safe haven. The marine environment and offshore islands are protected by three national wildlife refuges and Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary. The refuges manage the islands visible above high tide waters for 135 miles (217 km) along the coast. Large nesting colonies of birds like common murres and tufted puffins need these rocky outposts.
From south to north, along US-101:
- 9 Kalaloch and Ruby Beach (In the south part of the coastal section, along US-101). Kalaloch is one of the most visited areas of Olympic National Park. The southern coast of the Olympic Peninsula provides some amazing sights of the pristine beaches and marine wildlife.
- 10 Mora and Rialto Beach (Near Forks in the central part of the coastal section, off of WA-110 La Push Rd, via Mora Rd). Rocky beaches, giant drift logs, pounding waves and views of offshore islands known as 'seastacks' are features that define Rialto Beach. Just inland is the Mora area, characterized by towering trees, lush undergrowth and the omnipresent roar of the Pacific Ocean in the background. Make sure to see Hole-in-the-Wall which is a sea-carved arch about 1.5-mile (2.4 km) north of Rialto Beach, within the Olympic Wilderness.
The Quillayute River blocks access from Rialto Beach to First, Second, and Third Beaches. First Beach is part of the Quileute Indian Reservation (Quileute Indian Nation); Second and Third Beaches just to the south are located within Olympic National Park and are part of the Olympic Wilderness Coast.
- 11 Ozette (In the north part of the coastal section, off WA-112, via Hoko-Ozette Road). A diverse landscape of tall seastacks that dot the coast, the crystal waters of Lake Ozette, and the grandeur of the old-growth forests. Lake Ozette is also a place of rich history. Discoveries in the past century have unearthed the presence of a culture dating back at least 2,000 years, as well as a well-preserved 300-year-old village that had been covered by a mudslide. Over 50,000 artifacts were recovered, many of which now reside at the Makah Cultural and Research Center in Neah Bay. Two 3-mile (4.8 km) boardwalk trails lead to the coast, where seals and gray whales can be spotted during migratory months. There is also a trail leading from the coast to Ericson's Bay of Lake Ozette.
Do
editBeaches
editThe coastline features numerous beaches. Few of them are creatively-named, but many of them easy to access. During the summer, the beaches can be quite crowded with fishermen, clammers, and children. Remember that the northern Pacific is cold, so swimming is not for the faint of heart.
- Beach 1 (south of Kalaloch).
- Beach 2 (near Kalaloch).
- Beach 3 (north of Kalaloch).
- Ruby Beach (north of Kalaloch). An ideal location if you are seeking solitude while you enjoy nature.
- Third Beach (11 miles (18 km) W on WA-110, trailhead at La Push Rd, noticeable from pullover area). A quieter beach accessible after a 1.5-mile (2.4 km)-hike. No seastacks but wide enough for camping.
- 1 Second Beach (13 miles (21 km) W on WA-110, trailhead at La Push Rd). Fabulous 1.5-mile (2.4 km) walk on a safe easy path through beautiful tall trees to Tealwhit Point. Great beach, tide pools and driftwood.
- First Beach (near La Push).
- 2 Rialto Beach (13 miles (21 km) W on WA-110 and Mora Rd). An iconic beach with lines of sprawling sea stacks. The lines of sand has an access to Little James Island and has a view of the La Push Marina.
- Shi Shi Beach (south of Neah Bay).
Hiking and backpacking
editThe Olympic National Park has an extensive trail system. Much of the interior and the coast is wilderness and can only be seen from the trails.
The Hoh Rain Forest is lushest, densest forest in the park, and arguably in the entire western US:
- Hall of Mosses Trail. (0.8 mi (1.3 km), 100 feet gain). This stroll crosses a small creek and up to an older grove of trees. Western hemlock, Douglas fir, bigleaf maple, western redcedar, red alder, vine maple, black cottonwood, and Sitka play host to a slew of different epiphytes - plants which live on other plants.
- Hoh River Trail. (18 mi (29 km) one-way, 3700 feet gain). Follow the Hoh River through old-growth rain forest, all the way to the terminal moraine of the Blue Glacier, and the climber's approach to Mt. Olympus. Camspites are available every few miles along the trail.
From Lake Quinault, trails run up river valleys to meadows, alpine lakes, and ice-carved peaks:
- East Fork Quinault River. (13 mi (21 km) one-way, 1700 feet gain). Hike through the rain forest to the Enchanted Valley Chalet.
- North Fork Quinault River Trail. (16 mi (26 km) one-way, 3100 feet gain). Follow the North Fork Quinault River through old-growth forest to the Low Divide. Requires river crossings. Loop options available.
Sol Duc features a charming waterfall, and access to the park's favorite alpine lakes:
- Sol Duc Falls. (1 mi (1.6 km), 200 feet gain). Walk through old-growth forest to a waterfall overlook.
- Lover's Lane Loop. (6 mi (9.7 km) loop, 480 feet gain). Walk from the resort along the opposite side of the Sol Duc River, then cross the bridge at Sol Duc Falls.
- Mink Lake Trail. (5.2 mi (8.4 km) roundtrip, 1450 feet gain). Climb through the forest to a tiny but picturesque lake.
- High Divide Loop. (19 mi (31 km) loop, 4000 feet gain). A popular 2-3 day hike that passes through Seven Lakes Basin. The views of Mount Olympus are astounding on a clear day.
Lake Crescent features easy trails along the lake and surrounding forests, as well as access to a few surrounding mountains:
- Marymere Falls. (1.8 mi (2.9 km), 500 feet gain). The most popular day hike from Lake Crescent, to a 90-foot waterfall.
- Spruce Railroad. (4 mi (6.4 km)). A trail converted from an old railway running along the north shore of Lake Crescent.
The Elwha Valley is the park's largest watershed, and once contained a small resort around its natural hot spring. A large dam on the Elwha river was removed in 2014, and just one year later, a flood washed out part of Olympic Hot Springs Rd.
- Boulder Creek Trail. (5 mi (8.0 km), 200 feet gain). Walk along the creek to Olympic Hot Springs, a popular backcountry hot spring bath.
- Humes Ranch Loop. (5 mi (8.0 km), 550 feet gain). Hike along the narrows of the Elwha River to Humes Cabin, occupied until the 1940s.
Quilcene is on the drier eastern slopes of the Olympic Mountains. Note that many trails from the east start in the Olympic National Forest, with different permit rules:
- Upper Big Quilcene Trail. (11 mi (18 km), 3500 feet gain). A steep hike through enormous redcedars and hemlocks to Marmot Pass, with big views of the Olympics.
Staircase provides access to old-growth Douglas fir forests:
- Shady Lane Trail. (1 mi (1.6 km), flat). Walk from Lake Cushman along the Skokomish River to a ranger cabin.
- Flapjack Lakes Trail. (15 mi (24 km), 3050 feet gain). Start along the North Fork Skokomish River, then climb to a pair of circular lakes in the Olympic high country.
- North Fork Skokomish River Trail. (15 mi (24 km) one-way, 3568 feet gain). Hike along the river to the First Divide and the Duckabush River.
The Wilderness Coast consists of miles of beaches, broken up by rocky tidepools and occasional river crossings. It is continuously hikeable from the Hoh River to Shi Shi Beach at the Makah Indian Reservation, at least during low tide! If venturing beyond the most popular sections, consult the local tide tables before committing to the rockier stretches.
- South Coast Route. (17 mi (27 km) one-way, 2000 feet gain).
- North Coast Route. (30 mi (48 km) one-way, 200 feet gain).
- Ozette Loop (Ozette Triangle). (9.4 mi (15.1 km) loop, 100 feet gain). From Ozette Lake, follow a 3 mi (4.8 km) boardwalk through coastal forest to the beach at Cape Alava. The ocean here is punctuated by small islands with steep cliffs protecting a tuft of tall trees. Continuing south, find the petroglyphs at Wedding Rocks. Find the Sand Point Trail to head back into the forest.
Boating
editThe Hoh River is a kayaking hotspot. Kayaking and rafting are also popular through the whitewater rapids of the Elwha River.
There are boat launches on Lake Crescent, Lake Ozette, and Lake Quinault.
Winter sports
edit- 3 Hurricane Ridge Ski and Snowboard Area, ☏ +1 848-667-7669. Small ski area with 3 lifts (2 rope tows) and 10 trails. One of only three lift-serviced ski areas in the National Park system.
Buy
edit- Discover Your Northwest (formerly Northwest Interpretive Association), ☏ +1 360-569-6790. operates sales outlets at visitor centers throughout the park. They offer publications, maps, posters, videos, children's literature, and other informational materials. There is an online bookstore available and items can be purchased over the phone with a credit card.
- On Upper Hoh Rd, there is one stop for gas and snack food, etc., before the park entrance.
Eat
editYour best option for meals are in Port Angeles, Forks, and the smaller towns surrounding the park along US-101. Dining options within the park are mostly confined to the park lodges.
Drink
editSleep
editLodging
editThere are four lodging options located within the park:
- 1 Kalaloch Lodge, 157151 US-101, Forks. Offers cabins, motel and lodge rooms, along with a dining room and grocery store. Kalaloch is a lodge located on a bluff, just above a beach. The lodge has been in existence for many years, but has undergone renovations and become much more tourist friendly. The view from the lodge is still one of the best in the area, overlooking the Pacific Ocean. There are cabins available for rent, which are quite expensive, but are the only places to sleep indoors in the area. These cabins are very nice, and well maintained. If a large group of people are travelling together, then it may be a fun thing to do to rent one.
- 2 Log Cabin Resort, 3183 E Beach Rd, Port Angeles (about 20 miles (32 km) west of Port Angeles). Offers a variety of lodging options, along with a camping area for RVs and tents. A dining room, soda fountain, boat rentals, a grocery and gift shop and is on the north shore of Lake Crescent
- 3 Lake Crescent Lodge, 416 Lake Crescent Rd, ☏ +1 360-928-3211. Check-in: 4PM, check-out: 11AM. The lodge has cabins, motel rooms and rooms in the historic lodge building, along with a dining room, lounge and coffee bar, gift shop and boat rentals.
- 4 Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort, 12076 Sol Duc Hot Springs Rd (40 miles (64 km) west of Port Angeles), toll-free: +1-888-896-3818. Check-in: 4PM, check-out: 11AM. Offers cabins, hot spring pools, a dining room, poolside deli and a grocery store. An RV park with hookups is also available.
Outside of the park, the following communities have lodging options:
- North Olympic Peninsula: Port Angeles, Sequim, Port Townsend, Forks, Sekiu and Clallam Bay.
- Hood Canal Area: Hoodsport, Lake Cushman and Shelton.
- Lake Quinault: Lake Quinault and Amanda Park.
Camping
editOlympic has 16 NPS-operated campgrounds. Concession-operated RV parks are in the park at the Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort and Log Cabin Resort on Lake Crescent. Campgrounds can accommodate RVs and trailers up to 21 feet (6.4 m) in length, unless otherwise noted. Most campground toilets are wheelchair accessible, unless otherwise noted in the chart below. All campsites are first-come, first-served, except for Kalaloch, Hoh, Mora, and Sol Duc. All park campsites provide a picnic table and fire pit. Park campgrounds do not have hook-ups or showers. Group campgrounds are provided at Sol Duc and Kalaloch.
- Deer Park Campground (off of Deer Park Road, which is accessible from Highway 101). 14 sites. All sites are first-come, first-served. At 5,400 feet (1,600 m) in elevation, Deer Park boasts mountain views and starry skies. With a steep and winding gravel access road, Deer Park is not RV accessible. $15 per night (2020 rates).
- 5 Dosewallips Campground (Walk-In Only). Perfect for secluded tent camping. The Dosewallips road is washed out 5.5 miles (8.9 km) from the campground and cannot be traversed with a vehicle. All campers must hike past the wash-out and walk into the campground. Free.
- Fairholme Campground (on the west side of Lake Crescent, off of Highway 101.). 88 sites. All sites are first-come, first-served. Neighboring Lake Crescent, Fairholme includes lakeside campsites and a nearby boat launch. $20 per night (2020 rates).
- Graves Creek Campground (in the Quinault Rain Forest along the Graves Creek Road, which is accessible from both the North Shore and South Shore roads that circumvent Lake Quinault; the Lake Quinault area is accessible from Highway 101). 30 sites. All sites are first-come, first-served. Located in the Quinault Rain Forest, relax near a serene stream at Graves Creek Campground. $20 per night (2020 rates).
- Heart O' the Hills Campground (off of Hurricane Ridge Road, which is accessible from Port Angeles via Race Street and Highway 101). 102 sites. All sites are first-come, first-served. Surrounded by old-growth forest, Heart O'the Hills offers summer ranger programs. $20 per night (2020 rates).
- Hoh Campground (at the terminus of the Upper Hoh Road, which is accessible via Highway 101). 88 sites. All sites are first-come, first-served. Surround yourself with moss and ancient trees in this temperate rain forest. Hoh campground offers summer ranger programs and some riverside campsites along the Hoh River. $20 per night (2020 rates).
- Kalaloch Campround (36 miles (58 km) south of Forks off of Highway 101). 170 sites. Oceanside camp at Kalaloch with some sites overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Online reservations accepted for mid-June to late September. First-come, first-served in off season. $22 per night (2020 rates).
- Mora Campground (off of the Mora Rd via Highway 110, which is accessible from Highway 101, a few miles north of Forks). 94 sites. All sites are first-come, first-served. Situated in a coastal forest, some sites offer views views of the Quillayute River. Mora is located 2 miles (3.2 km) from Rialto Beach. $20 per night (2020 rates).
- North Fork Campground (accessed via the North Shore Road along Lake Quinault, which can be accessed via Highway 101). 9 sites. All sites are first-come, first-served. Surrounded by temperate rain forest, this small and remote campground is a great spot for campers seeking solitude. $15 per night (2020 rates).
- Ozette Campground (near Lake Ozette along the Hoko-Ozette Road, which is accessible from Highways 112 and 113, both of which connect to Highway 101). 15 sites. All sites are first-come, first-served. Adjacent to Lake Ozette, this small campground is great for those that enjoy lakeside camping and water activities $15 per night (2020 rates).
- Queets Campground (accessible from the Upper Queets Road, which is accessed from Road 21, which connects to Highway 101). 20 sites. All sites are first-come, first-served. Relax in this secluded campground near the Queets River. This campground is only accessible from the Upper Queets River Road due to a past mudslide $15 per night (2020 rates).
- South Beach Campground (off of Highway 101 in the Kalaloch Area, 36 miles (58 km) south of Forks). 55 sites. All sites are first-come, first-served. Positioned on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean, South Beach offers panoramic ocean views and beach access. $15 per night (2020 rates).
- Staircase Campground (Northwest of Hoodsport, which is accessed by Highway 119, which will then turn into an unpaved road; Highway 119 connects to Highway 101 in Hoodsport). 49 sites. All sites are first-come, first-served. Camp near the Skokomish River and enjoy old-growth forest at Staircase. Summer ranger programs and riverside campsites available. $20 per night (2020 rates).
Backcountry
editWilderness Camping Permits are required for all overnight stays in Olympic National Park wilderness (backcountry). Wilderness Camping Permits are handled through the Recreation.gov Wilderness Permit page. No sites are held as same-day walk-ups. Once issued, you can print the permit yourself.
The most popular areas of the park are subject to quotas, to prevent overcrowding and damage. Wilderness permits are also used to locate overdue or lost parties; as well as in case of a family emergency.
Permits for the summer season (May 15th through October 15th) become available on April 15th. Weekend reservations for popular areas fill up quickly.
Bear canisters are required in many wilderness areas. Bear canisters are available for loan on a first-come, first-served basis.
To speak with a ranger about your permit, request a walk-up permit, or borrow a bear canister, visit the Wilderness Information Center:
- Wilderness Information Center (WIC) (in Port Angeles, at the Olympic National Park Visitor Center), ☏ +1 360 565-3100.
Stay safe
editWildlife
editKeep wildlife wild. Though many of the animals in the park are used to seeing humans, they should not be fed or disturbed, and all wildlife in national parks are protected by federal law. Stay at least 150 ft (46 m) away from bears and 75 ft (23 m) from all other wild animals! Check trailhead postings of recent animal activity, or ask a park ranger for local advice.
The Olympics are habitat for many large animals that could potentially be dangerous:
- Black bears — There have been fewer than a dozen bear attacks in Washington in the last century, but hikers need to know about bear safety.
- Cougars (mountain lions) — Cougars are naturally shy and secretive, and sightings are rare. There have only been two fatal attacks in Washington in the last century. If a cougar approaches you, it is either protecting its young or is desperately hungry. Never turn your back or run from a cougar; back away slowly, and fight back if an attack is imminent. Learn more about hiking in cougar country.
- Elk — these herd animals are not aggressive like their moose cousins, but can be dangerous if they feel threatened.
Hiking and camping
editApproach the wilderness with respect and preparation, as recklessness or poor planning can get you into trouble. The mountains and wildernesses of the western U.S. may be more remote than you are used to. See the articles on hiking and wilderness backpacking for suggested gear, preparation, and discussion of risks.
There's a few considerations specific to Olympic National Park:
- Bring tidal information with you, as many beaches are impassable during high tides and hikers have been known to be caught off guard and stranded. Do not camp within the range of the high tide; besides getting wet, ocean debris might wash up on beaches and crush tents during the night.
- Do not drink untreated water from natural sources, as it may contain giardia or other water-borne pathogens. Tap water is not a problem.
- There is poor or no cell phone coverage away from US-101, including some of the visitor centers and lodges.
Crime
editLock your car doors and exercise sensible precautions with valuables, especially when leaving your vehicle at trail-heads or anywhere you might be away from your vehicle for any length of time.
Go next
editExplore the towns on US-101 and the Olympic Peninsula:
- Aberdeen – come as you are, to the birthplace of grunge music
- Forks – a logging town made famous by its resident vampires and werewolves
- Port Angeles – the hub of the Olympics
- Sequim – the sunniest place in Western Washington
Continue south down US-101 to the Washington and Oregon beach resorts:
- Long Beach – the longest continuous beach in the United States
- Astoria – Lewis and Clark's destination, with Victorian-era homes overlooking the Columbia River
See Washington's other National Parks:
- Mount Rainier National Park — The tallest mountain the Cascades and the most prominent mountain in the lower 48 states
- North Cascades National Park – Home to 50% of all glaciers in the lower 48 states. The undeveloped wilderness is a favorite for climbers and backpackers
Overwhelmed with natural beauty and need a city break?
- Olympia — Both the state capital and the regional epicenter of counterculture
- Seattle — The home of Starbucks features an eclectic mix of people and a vibrant city life, in the shadow of Mount Rainier
- Victoria – A small provincial capital famous for its British charm, connected by ferry from Port Angeles