Sol, Letras and Lavapiés

Sol, Letras and Lavapiés are neighbourhoods in central Madrid, the capital of Spain.

Understand

The Puerta del Sol square is Madrid's centre of the centre and therefore the symbolic omphalos of the whole kingdom. Here is milestone zero of Spain's road network from which all distances are measured. At least once a year, the whole nation looks here, when national TV stations broadcast the New Year's celebrations on Puerta del Sol and Spaniards swallow their twelve grapes to the chimes of the post office's belfry. North of Puerta del Sol, around Calle de Preciados and Calle del Carmen, is the main shopping district of central Madrid.

The northern limit of this district, Gran Vía, is the Spanish capital's most splendid avenue. It is lined by tall, lavishly ornated banking, insurance and shopping palaces from the early 1900s.

The neighbourhood around the Spanish parliament (Cortes) and calle de las Huertas is commonly known as the barrio de las Letras, literally the "quarter of letters", given that the most important writers of classical Spanish literature—Miguel de Cervantes, Lope de Vega, Francisco de Quevedo, Luis de Góngora—lived here. Around the Plaza Santa Ana is one of Madrid's favourite areas for casual dining and drinking with friends at night.

Lavapiés is Madrid's most multicultural and multiethnic neighbourhood. About half of its population have their roots in Latin America, Africa or Asia. This is the place to go to encounter folk and dance music from around the world, unconventional cafés and individual shops.

The "museum strip" or Paseo del Arte, to the east of Letras and Lavapiés, including the world-famous Prado, the Thyssen-Bornemisza Foundation, Caixaforum and the National Museum of Modern Art "Reina Sofía", is covered in a separate article.

Get in

Madrid's main station, 1 Estación de Atocha, is near the southeastern corner of Lavapiés.

Suburban trains (Cercanías lines  C-3  and C-4 ) stop at an underground station directly below Puerta del Sol.

Most metro lines pass through this district. Apart from the central 2 Sol  1  2  3 , there are Banco de España  2 , Sevilla  2 , Gran Vía  1  5 , Callao  3  5 , Santo Domingo  2 , Plaza España  3  10  along Gran Vía, Antón Martín  1  near Letras, Tirso de Molinas  1  and Lavapiés  3  in the eponymous neighbourhood.

See

Landmarks and architecture

Puerta del Sol

• 1 Puerta del Sol (Sol  1  2  3 ). This plaza is the heart of Madrid and one of the busiest places in the city - a hub for the local transit system, a favorite meeting spot for locals, a visible area for festivals or political demonstrations, and an opportune location for tour guides, street performers, pickpockets and anyone else looking to take advantage of all the tourists on-hand. In the center of the plaza sits the Statue of King Charles III on horseback, facing the Royal Post Office (Real Casa de Correos), the red-and-white building adorned with a clock tower on the plaza's south side. The building served as Madrid's first post office, then the police headquarters under Franco before being transformed into its current use as the office of the President of Madrid, the head of the regional government. The clock tower is noteworthy for being the center focus of New Year's celebrations every year, which are broadcast across Spain and mark the traditional eating of the Twelve Grapes (one for each ring of the bell) and the beginning of a new year. In front of the building is Kilometer Zero (Kilómetro Cero), a plaque showing the point where the measuring of national highway system begins. On the east side of the plaza is the famous Bear and the Madroño Tree Statue, a bear climbing a madroño tree, which is the symbol of Madrid, and on the west side of the plaza is the Mariblanca statue, a white marble goddess of at least the 17th century. Nearby the giant neon Tío Pepe sign sits above the plaza and is a famous fixture of this area.  
• 2 Gran Vía (Banco de España  2 , Gran Via  1  5 , Callao  3  5 , Santo Domingo  2 , or Plaza de España  3  10 ). Literally 'Great Way' (better translated as 'Broadway'), Gran Vía is one of the busiest avenues in Madrid. Running from Plaza de España to Plaza de Cibeles, it is the location of the cinema district and a number of shopping malls and is lined with large billboards and lights. There's a constant buzz of traffic and life – 03:00-04:00 early morning traffic jams are not unusual.  

Museums

• 3 Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando (RABASF / Royal Academy of Fine Arts of San Fernando), C/ Alcalá, 13 (Sevilla or Banco de España  2 ), ☏ +34 915 240 864. Tu-Su 10:00-15:00; open holidays; closed for the month of Aug. Highly impressive art collection with paintings, sculptures, drawings and prints. Several Goya masterpieces. €10 (adults), €5 (seniors/students over 25), free (students/children under 18); free on W and national holidays. (updated Oct 2024)
• 4 La Tabacalera, C/ Embajadores, 53 (Embajadores ). Closed in 2024. An abandoned tobacco factory turned into a huge Berlin-like alternative art space driven by the diverse locals of Lavapies district. Also free workshops daily. Nice big cheap outdoors terrace.
  It is hoped that that the closure is temporary and that it will return in a reduced form after works, check website for current situation. (updated Oct 2024)

Do

• 1 Auditorio 400, C/ Santa Isabel, 52 (Nouvel Building of the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía), ☏ +34 917 741 000, comunicaciones.mncars@cars.mcu.es. The main venue for contemporary music, dance, and theatre performance. 
• 2 Círculo de Bellas Artes, C/ Marqués de Casa Riera, 2 (Metro: Banco de España), ☏ +34 91 5225092. Exhibits: Tu-Su 11:00-14:00 17:00-21:00; Azotea: M-F 09:00-21:00, Sa Su and holidays 11:00-21:00. A non-profit cultural center located a short walk from Sol, the CBA offers up a wide variety of events and shows including film, music, art displays, dance, theater and more. See the website (in Spanish) for a list of activities. Great panoramic views of the city can be had from the Azotea, located at the top of the building. €4 (exhibits), €4 (Azotea). (updated Feb 2017)
• 3 Cardamomo Tablao Flamenco (Cardamomo Flamenco Show), C/ Echegaray, 15, ☏ +34 918 051 038, reservas@cardamomo.com. Shows daily at 18:00, 20:00, 22:00. Authentic Flamenco show in the center of Madrid, one of the greatest tablaos flamencos all over Spain, typical Spanish food during the performance. €32-39 (without drinks/dinner). (updated Feb 2017)
• 4 Teatro de la Zarzuela, C/ Jovellanos, 4, ☏ +34 910 505 282 (box office), fax: +34 915 233 059, abonostaquillas.tz@inaem.mcu.es (box office). Tickets: M-Sa 12:00-20:00, Su 12:00-18:00. The Spanish version of the operetta (zarzuela) is performed here. This is also the main concert venue for the Community of Madrid Orchestra.  
  • Orquesta de la Comunidad de Madrid (Community of Madrid Orchestra), C/ Mar Caspio, 4, ☏ +34 913 820 680, fax: +34 917 643 236, info@orcam.org. (updated Feb 2017)
• 5 Teatro Monumental (Monumental Cinema), C/ de Atoche, 65, ☏ +34 914 291 281 (box office). (updated Feb 2017)
  • Orquesta Sinfónica de RTVE (RTVE Symphony Orchestra), ☏ +34 914 298 119, infopublico.orquestaycoro@rtve.es. Performs every Th and F at the Teatro Monumental on Calle Atocha.  
• 6 Yelmo Cineplex Ideal (Cine Ideal), C/ Doctor Cortezo, 6 (metro: Sol), ☏ +34 913 692 518. Probably the best known V.O. (versión original, or original language) theatre in Madrid, it offers the largest selection of movies and is a short walk from Sol. (updated Jan 2018)
• 7 Cine Doré, C/ Santa Isabel, 3 (metro: Anton Martín), ☏ +34 913 691 125. This is a wonderful old Spanish theatre dating from the 1920s. It has three screens and shows mainly art-house and critically acclaimed films in the original language. In the summertime, they screen movies on the roof. From €2.50.  

Learn

• 1 Academia Eureka, C/ del Arenal, 26 - 3º D (near Puerta del Sol), ☏ +34 915 488 640, fax: +34 915 482 580, eureka@eurekamadrid.com. Accredited by the Instituto Cervantes, the school has been offering Spanish classes since 1988. It also offers optional housing on-site or with a Spanish family, and provides after-school activities and excursions. Classes start on Monday and all 6 levels (A1, A2, B1, B2, C1 and C2) are offered. Class sizes are small with a maximum of 8 students per class. 
• 2 Inhispania, C/ Marqués de Valdeiglesias, 3 (near the Puerta del Sol), ☏ +34 915 212 231, info@inhispania.com. Specialises in teaching Spanish language and culture. It is accredited by the Instituto Cervantes and offers intensive and regular programs, in smalls groups, for all levels and during the whole year. The school also organises after-school activities and offers an optional accommodation service. 
• 3 Spanish Abroad (near Puerta del Sol), info@spanishabroad.com. Spanish school. (updated Jan 2017)
• 4 Cambio Idiomas (C/ de la Abada, 2, 2º), ☏ +34 915567804. A language academy specialising in Spanish courses for expats and also offering courses in different languages, levels and with different objectives. (updated Feb 2017)
• 5 Tandem Escuela Internacional Madrid, C/ Marques de Cubas, 8 (Barrio de las Letras), ☏ +34 915 322 715, spanishcourses@tandem-madrid.com. Located in a beautiful palace, the school offers Spanish courses for foreigners, and English or German courses for Spaniards. It uses a humanistic teaching approach, combining neuro-linguistic programming with other innovative techniques. (updated Feb 2017)

Buy

• 1 El Corte Inglés Preciados, C/ Preciados 1-9, ☏ +34 913 798 000. Occupying the full first few blocks of the pedestrian boulevard Calle Preciados, El Corte Inglés serves as a gateway to the shopping paradise from Puerta de Sol. (updated Feb 2017)
• 2 El Corte Inglés Plaza de Callao, Plaza de Callao, 2, ☏ +34 913 798 000. M-Sa 10:00-22:00, Su 11:00-21:00. A much smaller store is to be found at the other end of Calle Preciados. Not quite a looker from the outside, it holds a top-floor restaurant with brilliant views over the Gran Vía. (updated Feb 2017)
• 3 Loewe Gran Vía. 

Eat

Many of the restaurants and cervecerías in the Sol area have generic poster board advertisements on the sidewalks with pictures advertising various paella dishes. These paellas are usually of bad quality and should be avoided. If you are looking for good, authentic Spanish paella, it is usually best to find a more expensive, 'sit-down' type of restaurant that offers a variety of paella dishes. There are also a number of deli-like shops along Calle Arenal that offer food para llevar (for take away).

Budget

• 1 Cervecería 100 Montaditos, Calle del Príncipe, 18. Daily 10:00-02:00. Branch of the popular nationwide chain that offers 100 different montaditos (small sandwiches). Great place to go for a cheap drink and bite to eat. Further branches are at Calle de la Montera, 34 (near metro Gran Vía) and Plaza de las Cortes, 3. (updated Sep 2022)
• 2 Museo del Jamón, Carrera de San Jerónimo, 6 (100 m east of Puerta del Sol). M-Th 09:00-00:30, F Sa 09:00-01:00, Su 10:00-00:30. One of several branches of this chain. Offers deli takeout service as well as tapas and raciónes at reasonable prices. They offer €1 ham sandwiches and a 'picnic' lunch consisting of a said ham sandwich, fresh fruit and a drink for €2 (Feb 2017). Another branch is at Calle de Atocha, 54 (metro Antón Martín). (updated Sep 2022)
• 3 Casa Toni, C. de la Cruz, 14. Very solid local option for small dishes/tapas. Recommended are chorizo, pig ears, tortilla with chorizo (omelette with chorizo), morcilla, sepia a la plancha. Casual non pretentious place. (updated Sep 2022)
• 4 Matador, C. de la Cruz, 39. Fantastic little stop for tapas. A very cozy place with good tapas and they always treat you very well. With a funny decoration. (updated Sep 2022)
• 5 Takos Al Pastor, C. de la Abada, 2. Good taqueria. The tacos are amazing. The quesadillas and tortas are also worth it. The queue seems super long, but it moves fast. (updated Sep 2022)
• 6 Puerto Rico, Calle de Chinchilla, 2. Small little cantine with excellent and satisfying authentic Spanish food. You have to queue, but it's quite fluid and it's worth it. (updated Sep 2022)
• 7 Mercado de San Fernando, Embajadores, 41 (Lavapiés  4  walk down C.de Tribulete (next to Carrefour) for 250 metres.). 09:00-18:00. Lively market that has not been completely swamped by tourism. Wide range of food & drink available. (including Vegan) (updated Aug 2024)

Mid-range

• 8 Alhambra, C/ Victoria, 9 (Metro: Sevilla), ☏ +34 915 210 708, info@tabernaalhambra.es. Su-Th 12:00-01:00, F Sa 12:00-02:00. This is a good place to drop by on a hot afternoon to enjoy a cold beer and some Andalusian tapas. Sample the sausages and cheeses. (updated Sep 2022)
• 9 La Casa del Abuelo, C/ Victoria, 12 (Metro: Sevilla), ☏ +34 910 000 133, hola@lacasadelabuelo.es. Su-Th 12:00-00:00, F Sa 12:00-01:00. A Madrid landmark in operation for over 100 years, this bar attracts a standing room only crowd on the weekends. They mainly serve shrimp-based tapas dishes so if you're not into shellfish it may be advisable to steer clear. Order a plate of their garlic shrimp and accompany with their house wine. (updated Sep 2022)
• 10 El Inti de Oro, C/ Ventura de la Vega, 12 (Metro: Sevilla), ☏ +34 914 296 703, info@intideoro.com. Daily 13:30-16:00 20:30-00:00. For something different, try this great Peruvian restaurant a short walk from Sol. Be sure to order some of their ceviche and try the Pisco Sour cocktail. (updated Sep 2022)

Splurge

• 11 Restaurante Ático, C. del Marqués de Valdeiglesias, 1. (updated Sep 2022)

Drink

Cafés

• 1 Café Central, Plaza del Ángel 10 (Metro: Sol), ☏ +34 913 694 143, info@cafecentralmadrid.com. M-Th 12:30-02:30, F 12:30-03:30, Sa 11:30-03:30, Su 11:30-02:30. Café by day, live jazz music at night. (updated Feb 2017)
• 2 La Mallorquina, Puerta del Sol 8, Mayor, 2 (Metro: Sol). Famous for its pastries. Peaceful upstairs room where you can linger undisturbed over your café con leche and napolitana de chocolate (chocolate croissant).  
• 3 Nuevo Café Barbieri, C/ Ave María, 45 (Metro: Lavapies), ☏ +34 915 273 658, info@cafebarbieri.es. M-Th 08:00-01:00, F 08:00-02:00, Sa 09:00-02:00, Su 09:00-01:00. Slightly scruffy cafe draws an avante garde crowd at night. (updated Feb 2017)
• 4 La Pecera del Círculo de Bellas Artes (Café del Círculo de Bellas Artes), C/ Alcalá, 42 (Metro: Banco de Espana), ☏ +34 913 605 400, catering@hospress.com. M-Th 09:00-01:00, F Sa 09:00-03:00, Su 09:00-00:00. A soaring hall on the ground floor of Madrid's art center combines atmosphere, excellent food and good coffee at reasonable prices. A wonderful place for lunch not far from Madrid's shopping or museums. (updated Feb 2017)

Bars

Museo Chicote

• 5 Museo Chicote, Gran Vía, 12 (Metro: Gran Vía), ☏ +34 915 326 737. M-Th 19:00-03:00, F Sa 19:00-04:00, Su 16:00-01:00. Voted the Best European Bar 2004 by MTV-Campari. Extensive cocktail list. Claims to have served drinks to many famous celebrities, including, Ava Gardner, Frank Sinatra, Lana Turner, Gary Cooper, Orson Wells, Yul Brynner and Ernest Hemingway, Catherine Zeta Jones, Hugh Grant and Tim Robbins. They only serve drinks. (updated Mar 2017)
• 6 Dubliners, C/ Espoz y Mina, 7 (Metro: Sol), ☏ +34 915 227 509. Daily 11:00-03:00. An Irish bar in the centre of Madrid near Puerta del Sol. The bar has televisions and is one of the places where sport can be seen. (updated Apr 2017)
• 7 Xaloc Bar de Copas, C/ Huertas, 41, Las Letras (Metro: Antón Martín, Sevilla), ☏ +34 602 433 967, itaca.eocio@gmail.com. Tu Th-Sa 21:00-03:30. Discopub in the core of Barrio de las Letras. Great place with excellent prices but a good quality. The bar includes nice music, a DJ, and a moderately large dance floor. (updated Oct 2017)
• 8 Viva Madrid, Calle de Manuel Fernández y González, 7, ☏ +34 916 059 774, viva@vivamadrid1856.com. Tu 18:00-02:00, W Th 13:00-02:00, F 13:00-2:30, Sa 12:00-02:30, Su 12:00-01:00. Opened in 1856, this Madrid institution is known for its old-world charm and its creative takes on tapas and cocktails. José Rizal, the Philippines' national hero, was a regular patron, with a plaque hanging above the door in his honor. (updated Dec 2022)
• 9 Chinaski Lavapiés, C. de la Fe, 19 (Lavapiés  4 , walk down road to the left of theatre and take the 2nd left up C. Salitre to first junction.), ☏ +34686476093. M-F 18:00-00:00; Sa&Su 13:00-00:00 or later. Interesting mixture of unusual local and foreign beers. (updated Aug 2024)

Clubs

• 10 El Sol, Calle Jardines, 3 (Metro: Gran Via). Tu-Sa 00:00-05:30. Popular with the 20-30 age group. Plays a mix of 70s, funk, and bossanova sounds. No dress code, but people do tend to look cool. Entry including 1 drink: €9. 
• 11 Ohm, Plaza de Callao, 1 (in Gran Via street) (Metro: Callao (L3)). From 00:00 to 07:00. Popular Commercial House club with a mixed young straight/gay crowd. €10-20 with mixed drink. 
• 12 Stardust, C/ Isabel la Católica, 6 (Metro: Santo Domingo). F 23:45-06:00. Powerful Techno/House club popular within the younger crowd. €10-20 with mixed drink. (updated Oct 2017)

Sleep

Budget

• 1 Mad Hostel, C/ De la Cabeza, 24 (metro: Antón Martín), ☏ +34 915 064 840, info@madhostel.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 05:00-11:00. Nice, clean, quiet weekend hostel. 5 minutes from metro, tapas and services. 10-minute walk to Puerto del Sol, museums and Gran Via. Close to southern 'ethnic' areas = good food. Big common room with 4 computer stations, unreliable Wi-Fi and good free breakfast. Secure locker with every bed. €16+ (dorm), €48+ (double room). (updated Jan 2017)
• 2 Cat's Hostel, Calle Cañizares 6 (metro: Antón Martín), ☏ +34 91 3692807, info@catshostel.com. Located in a 17th-century palace, but has a modern interior and is clean and secure. Breakfast and internet is included in the price and there is also a bar. It attracts a young backpackers clientele, but the crowd here is such that you're more likely to find partiers than hitchhikers. Shared dormitories for 4 to 14 people. Dorm bed: €13-20, breakfast included. 
• 3 Way Hostel Residence, Calle Relatores 17 (metro: Tirso de Molina), ☏ +34-914-200-583. Small hostel, nice ambiance and is catered to young travelers. Nice kitchen, friendly staff, and free internet. Dorm bed: €18-19. 
• 4 Hostal San Martin, Calle Concepción Arenal 4 (Metro: Callao), ☏ +34 915 319176. Small, clean guest-house on the 4th floor. Ideally located just meters from Gran Via, with great staff and free WI-fi. All rooms have sink & shower, but most share bathrooms. Singles: €30-36; Doubles: €42-48. 
• 5 Hotel ibis Styles Madrid Prado, Calle del Prado, 11 (metro: Antón Martín). The small and inconspicuous ibis Styles gets great reviews thanks to a combination of nice rooms, good staff and ideal location, all that at a reasonable price including breakfast. 
• 6 Hostal Plaza d'Ort, Plaza del Ángel, 13 (metro: Sol), ☏ +34 914 299 041, info@plazadort.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:30. Cheap hotel with a good location near Plaza de Santa Ana. All rooms feature bathrooms, TV and air conditioning. Singles €55-68, doubles €60+. (updated Jan 2017)
• 7 ibis budget Madrid Centro Lavapies, Calle De Valencia 8 10 (Lavapiés  4 ). Budget hotel convenient for metro station. Some single rooms. (updated Aug 2024)

Mid-range

• 8 Artistic Bed & Breakfast, Calle Lope de Vega, 11, ☏ +34 654368611, info@artisticbandb.com. In the center of Madrid, a quiet bed and breakfast with a unique style and decoration. €60/night. 
• 9 Asturias, C/ Sevilla 2, ☏ +34 914 296 676, info@hotel-asturias.com. A 2-star hotel. The Asturias is 200 meters from the central Puerta del Sol. (updated Oct 2017)
• 10 Hotel Madrid Preciados, C/Preciados nº37, ☏ +34 91 454 44 01. 4-star hotel in excellent location. €96-150/night. 
• 11 Hotel Senator Gran Via Madrid, Gran Via 52 (a few minutes from Puerta del sol), ☏ +34 902 052 394. 4-star hotel. Restaurant, bar, and meeting space. 
• 12 ME Madrid Reina Victoria, Plaza de Santa Ana, 14, ☏ +34 917 016 000, memadrid@melia.com. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Located in Plaza de Santa Ana. (updated Oct 2017)

Splurge

• 13 Hotel De Las Letras, Gran Vía, 11, ☏ +34 917 610 906. Old building with tasteful modern interior. Well sound-proofed against the busy Gran Via outside. Very comfortable beds. Rooms with TV, hi-fi, mini bar, bath/shower. Optional breakfast buffet with wide choice of good quality food and drinks. Pleasant, comfortable bar.  
• 14 Maria Elena Palace, C/ Aduana 19, ☏ +34 913 604 930, reservas@hotelmariaelenapalace.es. The Hotel María Elena Palace is located just 200 metres away from the Puerta del Sol. Renowned for its magnificent glass dome in the lobby. (updated Oct 2017)
• 15 Hotel Quatro Puerta del Sol, C/ Sevilla 4, ☏ +34 915 329 049, info@hotelquatropuertadelsol.com. The turn-of-the-century grandeur with modern conveniences and amenities. Hotel Quo Puerta del Sol is housed in an emblematic building from the beginning of the 20th century with unique views of the city. It was totally restored in 2003. (updated Oct 2017)

Connect

Puerta del Sol

Lavapiés