Okavango Delta

Mokoros are a common mode of travel in the Okavango Delta

The Okavango Delta is a region in Botswana.

Regions

• Kalahari Basin

The Kalahari Desert lies in the Kalahari Basin, which is enormous, about five times the size of France, and the Basin covers all of Botswana and parts of her surrounding countries. The Kalahari Basin was created 135 million years ago when South America, Asia and Australia tore themselves away from Africa. The power of this event and of the secondary volcanic and earth shuddering activity it caused lifted the edges of southern Africa like a bowl, creating the Basin. Over many millions of years this part of the world passed through extremely dry periods, during which fierce sand storms dumped layer upon layer of sand into the basin. And today, 65 million years later, this is the oldest and largest stretch of sand on our planet.

These sands are about 250 m deep and geologically this area has looked almost the same for most of those 65 million years. Now in all honesty one million years is quite difficult for us to contemplate, let alone 65. But in terms of an almost unchanged landscape that is, even geologically speaking a long, long time. To put it into perspective only 12 000 years ago most of Europe was under ice and completely uninhabitable. And the rugged valleys of Scotland and Fjords of Norway were carved by that very same ice.

Because of this great age and because of Africa’s position in relation to the equator, Africa was largely unaffected but the last few ice ages and thus, when compared to the rest of the planet, Africa has suffered far less extinctions. The result of this an amazing diversity of plants, trees, birds and animals. To give you an idea of this diversity the Okavango Delta alone has as many species of trees as the whole of Western Europe.

• Kalahari Desert

The Kalahari is in the wet period of its 65-million-year history. It's most outstanding physical feature is the living desert. The sands of the Kalahari Desert have mostly been blown there rather than transported by water and thus are not very fertile. Even so, after good rains, grass is plentiful and this supports an astounding diversity of life. The Kalahari Desert is the last refuge of the San or Bushmen, who have roamed Southern Africa for the last 30,000 years and are now on the verge of extinction.

• Lake Makgadikgadi

At some stage in this 65-million-year period large Rivers flowed into the Kalahari Basin, creating a giant lake which in turn emptied into the Indian Ocean via the Limpopo River. And then about 50 000 years ago, due to the numerous fault lines in the area, all but the Okavango River were diverted, and the Lake began to shrink. Until about 10 000 years ago another fault effectively dammed the Okavango River creating the delta and leaving the Lake to become the largest the salt pan complex in the world, the Makgadikgadi Pans – an amazing expanse of whiteness the size of Switzerland.

Cities

• 1 Shakawe
• Etsha
• 2 Gumare
• 3 Maun
• 4 Nokaneng
• Selinda
• 5 Sepupa
• 6 Seronga
• 7 Tsau
• Xeroxom

Other destinations

A cheetah silhouetted against a fiery sunset in the Okavango Delta

• 1 Moremi Game Reserve

Understand

The University of Botswana's Okavango Research Institute was established in 1994 to help understand the natural and human processes that shape the Delta, which became a Ramsar Wetland of International Significance in 1996. HOORC's multidisciplinary research teams provide the science to support the work of local, national and regional planning bodies such as the Okavango River Basin Water Commission. Flow the HOORC Library weblog, reports research and news relevant to the Delta.

Get in

Most travellers start from Maun with their own car. You can also charter airplanes there or go on a tour with one of the flying-safari operators.

Get around

The villages of Sepupa and Shakawe can be reached by a bus (141 pula, 6 hr, July 2024) from Maun. From the bus rank in Maun, there are daily departures of the bus to Shakawe at 8:30AM, 11AM, and 4:30PM. Sepupa is couple of stops before Shakawe. Ticket payment is collected on the bus. The bus is pretty basic: 5 non-reclining seats in a row, little leg-room and no bathrooms.

The bus drops you off in Sepupa next to a little store (about 3 km from the Swamp Stop and the shore river bank). If you are headed to Swamp Stop, ask to be dropped off by the turn with a sign “Swamp Stop”. Once in Sepupa, you will have to rely on flagging down a vehicle to give you a lift to the Swamp Stop. Sometimes part of the road to Swamp Stop gets flooded and you have to have someone from the Swamp Stop fetch you on a mokoro boat or on a tractor; so phone ahead of time or have a mobile handy.

See

Rock art at Tsodilo

• The Okavango Delta is one of the world's great inland waterways. The meandering Okavango River is breathtaking, seen either by boat, airplane or mokoro. The main choices are to go on safari in Moremi Game Reserve or stay at one or two of the many lodges. The animals, as outlined below, the birding, flora and fauna are spectacular. There are some amazing lodges like Oddballs Camp, and Delta Camp. A trip called the Trans Okavango takes you from the top of the Okavango Delta to Maun. This delta in northwest Botswana comprises permanent marshlands and seasonally flooded plains. In 2014 Okavango Delta was inscribed to the UNESCO World Heritage list.
• Tsodilo Hills. A 10-km² area UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its 4500 rock paintings. It's about a 40-km drive along a good grade dirt road from Shakawe. 

Do

Go. It's amazing. Fabulous. One the most magical places in the entire world. The budget-minded can take the bus from Maun to Sepupa. There is now a river taxi that travels daily from Sepupa to Seronga and coordinates with the buses. If your timing is off stay at Swamp Stop overnight. In Seronga you can stay at the Polers Trust and enjoy the mekoro trips.

Much of the area is divided into large concessions run by various safari groups. Development is strictly regulated so that there is little development and lots of wildlife. It is expensive, but worth it to stay in some of these permanent tented campsites. The guides are knowledgeable, and the accommodations very comfortable. Wilderness Safaris runs many great camps. They are all inclusive: two wildlife rides a day, all meals, snacks and drinks are included in the price.

Sleep

• 1 Swamp Stop River Camp, Sepupa Village, ☏ +267 72610071. 12 air-conditioned chalets with en suite facilities. The showers have hot water, the restaurant offers a nice shaded space, to sit and watch the river flow by, and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and there is a licensed bar. Activities include makoro trips into the Okavango, boat cruises, helicopter scenic flights, fishing and bird watching, extremely popular as the area features sightings of rare waterfowl, including the Pels Spotted Fishing Owl. (updated Mar 2017)
• 2 Kubu Queen House Boat, Shakawe Village, ☏ +267 72306822. Go fishing or bird watching on the river boat at the Okavango Delta Panhandle. (updated Apr 2018)

Stay safe

The Okavango Delta is generally considered safe for travellers, although as with any part of Africa necessary precautions should always be taken. The Okavango is home to many potentially dangerous animals (including the Nile Crocodile, Lion and Hippo) but attacks on tourists are virtually unheard of, it is best to closely follow the instructions of your guide at all times.

Stay healthy

Malaria, along with many other mosquito-borne illnesses, can be present within the Okavango and thus preventive measures are imperative. The occurrence of mosquito-borne illnesses is much higher in the wet season (the same is true for any tropical location.)