Stockholm Quay Palace tour

The Stockholm Quay Palace tour is a roughly chronological showcase of architecture and public art; in particular the palaces, grand houses and other decorated buildings along some of Stockholm's quays, as well as monuments, statues, and other works of art. These buildings have been commissioned by the Swedish monarchy, as well as government agencies, nobles, and business leaders. Today they are used for various purposes: museums, conference sites, offices, or private residences. All palaces can be seen up close. Some have interiors open to the public.

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Understand

See also: Nordic history, Swedish Empire

In Swedish, the words slott (from German Schloss) is used for a rural (sometimes fortified) building for a king or a local ruler. Palats (from French palais) is used for city palaces. Neither word has a fixed definition.

The intercity Uppland history tour displays the cradle of Sweden in the Iron and Middle Ages. The pedestrian Stockholm history tour is a 1,000 year chronology of Stockholm.

Stockholm became a city in the 13th century. With Swedish independence in 1523, Stockholm became Sweden's undisputed capital, and its largest city.

Architecture of Stockholm

In Swedish history, the Middle Ages began around year 1000 as Sweden became Christian and unified, lasting to the Protestant Reformation in the 16th century.

Few intact medieval buildings remain in Stockholm: wooden buildings tend to burn down or rot, and while monasteries were built from brick and stones, most of them were dismantled as the country became Protestant. Some medieval stone basements remain in Gamla stan, with 16-18th century façades, from the height of the Swedish Empire. Renaissance, Baroque and Classicist styles are prevalent in the Old Town. The 19th century saw the rise of Romantic architecture, which in Sweden references the Viking Age, the Middle Ages, and vernacular architecture; see Nordic folk culture.

The German word jugend is used for art nouveau, which was at its height around 1900, famous for plant- and human-shaped ornaments, and extensive use of coloured glass. Nordic classicism, also known as Swedish Grace, is a style of the 1910s-30s, usually seen as the Swedish variant of Art Deco; which is presented in the Swedish Grace tour. More austere modernist architecture, in particular functionalism (funkis), has been dominant in Stockholm since the 1930s.

Get around

The tour begins at Riddarholmen, and follows the quays of Gamla stan, through Norrmalm and further along Strandvägen in Östermalm. The tour can be done on foot; strollers and wheelchairs can get around with some detours. Cycling and personal electric vehicles can also be considered.

Destinations

Riddarholmen

Riddarholmen, "the Knight Isle", has been settled since the 13th century, and is today dominated by nobility palaces from the height of the Swedish Empire in the 17th and 18th centuries. Most of them are today used by the judiciary. Some interiors are open during weekdays.

• 1 Information plaques (Birger jarls torg). Historical scale models of the island. 
• 2 Birger jarl statue. Birger was a 13th-century king who founded Stockholm (jarl is a title, compare "earl"). He wrote the first known letter that mentions Stockholm; as it is dated to 1252, this is considered to be the year that Stockholm was founded. The statue was made by Bengt Erland Fogelberg in 1854.  
• 3 Riddarholmen Church (Riddarholmskyrkan). This is the city's oldest building - though no longer actively used for church service. Built as an abbey in the late 14th century. Fifteen Swedish monarchs are buried here, from Gustavus Adolphus (1594–1632) to Gustav V (1858–1950). One notable absence is Queen Kristina, who abdicated in 1654, converted to Catholicism, and is buried in St Peter's Church in the Vatican. But what about Nelson Mandela, Lord Mountbatten, Chiang Kai-shek and other notables? - no, their plaques are here as "Knights of the Order of Seraphim", a Swedish heraldic society. Occasionally open to the public.  
• 4 Normal vertical datum, Schering Rosenhanes gränd. In 1898, this plaque became the vertical datum for Sweden, with a defined elevation above sea level. However, the land in Stockholm rises around 5 millimeters per year; see Ice Age traces for context. 
• 5 Birger Jarl's tower (Birger Jarls torn). This tower got its name from the aforementioned Birger, due to a myth that he commissioned it; if true it would be as old as Stockholm itself. It is more likely built in the 16th century by bricks scavenged by Sancta Klara monastery on Norrmalm, but still one of Stockholm's oldest buildings. It is today the seat of Sweden's Chancellor of Justice. Not open to the public.  
• 6 Wrangel Palace (Wrangelska palatset). Built on pieces from a 16th century fortifications, the Wrangel Palace was designed by Nicodemus Tessin the Elder for field marshal Carl Gustaf Wrangel. Following the 1697 fire in the Tre Kronor Castle, the Royal court was evacuated here, and remained until 1754, as the current Stockholm Palace was finished. Since 1756 it is the seat of Svea Court of Appeal. Partially open to the public during office hours.  
• 7 Evert Taube Terrace (Evert Taubes terrass). This open place has a statue of singer Evert Taube (1890-1976) and an abstract 1966 statue named Solbåt (Sun Boat).  
• 1 Stockholm City Hall (Stadshuset). The city hall, where the Nobel Prize Banquet takes place every year, is an imposing brick building in the city centre. The building was finished in 1923, and as Stockholm is one of several cities claiming to be the Venice of the North, the City Hall's exterior was inspired by Venetian palaces, while the interior has similarities to a Viking-age longhouse. The origin of the Three Crowns (tre kronor) is unknown; they have been said to represent Norse gods Odin, Thor and Frey, the Biblical Magi, or the Papal Palace in Avignon. Guided tours are held daily.  
• 2 Münchenbryggeriet. A brewery built in the 1890s, today used as a conference centre.  
• 3 Högalid Church. A 1923 basilica in national romantic style, referencing medieval Swedish churches.  
• 4 Västerbron. This 1935 arch bridge became Stockholm's first north-south bridge outside of the Old Town.  

Norrström

Norrström is the stream north of Gamla Stan.

• 8 Gustav Vasa. A 1770 statue. Gustav Vasa is arguably Sweden's most important kings, as he liberated Sweden from Danish rule, making Sweden independent since then, and carried out the Protestant Reformation.  
• 9 Bonde Palace (Supreme Court). The Bonde Palace (Bondeska palatset) was built in Baroque style for 17th century count Gustaf of the Bonde family (ironically meaning "farmer"/"peasant"), who held different offices, including Lord High Treasurer. It was Stockholm's courthouse until 1915, and since then Sweden's supreme court. Limited public access.  
• 10 Ryningska palatset (Ryning Palace). Built for admiral Erik Ryning in 1644. In the 18th century it had a wine cellar and a brothel frequented by singer Carl Michael Bellman, later replaced by a coffee house and a chess club. Today, it is the seat of the Labour Court, and the archive of the Supreme Court. Not open to the public.  
• 11 The House of Nobility (Riddarhuset). The building for sessions of the noble estate. Most of the nobility's privileges were abolished in 1866. In 2003, the last token privileges were abolished, and the Swedish nobility essentially became a private organization. The building has plenty of statues. The statue in the front depicts Gustav Vasa. The statue in the northern courtyard depicts Axel Oxenstierna. Occasionally open to the public.  
• 5 Swedish Parliament (Sveriges riksdag). The German-inspired word riksdag, literally "kingdom day", reveals that the assembly used to be occasional. In 1866, the riksdag became a permanent two-chamber parliament, and the original riksdag building on Riddarholmen turned out to be too small for the chambers. As the current building by architect Aron Johansson was finished in 1905, the Neo-Baroque style was criticized for being outdated. The size was also intended to rival the palace. It has a great collection of exterior sculptures, some of them from dismantled government buildings. Free guided tours in Swedish and English, and occasional access to sessions and debates.  
• 6 Parliament Chamber (Riksdagens plenisal). The west wing of the building, at Lake Mälaren, was built for the Riksbank office. Since a 1971 reform, the riksdag has only one chamber of 349 members, too many to seat in the old building. A renovation finished in 1983 made room for the new chamber in the west wing, with a bleacher for the public. The old building is used for parliamentary groups and committees. 
• 7 Rosenbad (Swedish Government Offices). The 1902 Jugend (art nouveau) building was built for a bank, and acquired by the Government of Sweden in 1922. Since the 1980s, most government ministries are located in the neighbouring buildings, connected by underground tunnels. During the 2000s, security has been tightened, with less access by cars. Not open to the public.  
• 8 Sager House (Sagerska huset). This 1900 neo-Renaissance building was Stockholm's last private palace, until widow Vera Sager, the last inhabitant, died in 1988. The 1986 assassination of Olof Palme called for increased security; since 1995, the Prime Minister lives here. Only open for occasional VIP events.  

Munkbron

In the old days, Stockholm's citizens have thrown household waste in the water. As the land rose, much of the new surface consisted of dried waste, which compacted over the centuries. The waterfront buildings were built on top of this loose ground.

• 12 Riddarholmsbroarna. A 1981 sculpture which depicts the bridges that connected Riddarholmen to Stadsholmen.  
• 13 Petersenska huset. A Renaissance-style palace finished in 1659.  
• 14 Munkbron 9. This neo-Gothic building looks older than it is, being built in 1893 for Industrikreditaktiebolaget, a bank.  
• 15 Postmuseum. Sweden's only postal museum, celebrating the Postal Service which was founded in 1636, and has had an office here from 1719 to 1905.  
• 16 Familjen (The Family). A 1973 statue by Pye Engström. 
• 17 Bågspännaren (The Crossbowman). A 1916 monument for early 15th century rebel leader Engelbrekt Engelbrektsson.  
• 18 von der Linde Palace (von der Lindeska huset). A Dutch Renaissance palace built in 1633 for Royal Treasurer Erik Larsson von der Linde. Said to be the last home of René Descartes, tutor of Queen Kristina, until he died of pneumonia.  
• 9 Victoriaslussen. Slussen ("the sluice") is a lock opened in 1642, to allow seagoing ships into Mälaren. Over the centuries, four different locks have succeeded each other, with new bridges for trains, bicycles and public transport. Stockholm has built the fifth lock, named in honour to Crown Princess Victoria, planned to open for regular traffic in 2027. This is one of very few places in Stockholm carrying the name of a living person. Below the bridge is a public art gallery, with of archaeological artifacts found in the excavation together with contemporary replicas; mostly glass, pottery and wood.  

Skeppsbron

Skeppsbron (literally The Ship Bridge) was Stockholm's main harbour during the Age of Sail. The buildings on the waterfront were commissioned by the merchants, affectionally called Skeppsbroadeln, ("the Skeppsbron Nobility") though not legally nobles.

• 19 Räntmästarhuset (Treasurer's house). A building from the 1660s, commissioned for treasurer Börje Cronberg. The house has two memorial plaques. One commemorates Georgian Prince Alexander Bagrationi, a general for the Russian Empire, who was taken as a prisoner of war at the 1700 battle of Narva, and quartered in this building. Another commemorates a medical clinic managed by Carl Linnaeus, the founder of systematic biology.  
• 1 Zum Franziskaner ("Zum"), Skeppsbron 44. A German-themed restaurant tracing its history from the Hanseatic period, allegedly founded in 1471, in its current location since 1906. The wall sculptures have some interesting details, including a vagina. According to legend, the owner's wife cheated on him, and raindrops on the portrait resemble tears.  
• 20 Södra Bankohuset (Southern Bank House), Järntorget 84. The city's official iron weighing house was located here until 1662. It was replaced by the current building, Riksens Ständers Bank, later Sveriges Riksbank, the world's oldest surviving central bank. Since 2018, the building hosts a video game studio. Though Stockholm's main export commodities have changed from hardware to software, Järntorget still has many restaurants and taverns. Not open to the public.  
• 21 Sjöguden (Sea God). A bollard with a 1913 red granite sculpture by Carl Milles, depicting a smiling, monstrous sea god with a mermaid. While Milles was mainly inspired by Graeco-Roman mythology, mermen and mermaids appear in legends around the world.  
• 22 Schönska huset, Skeppsbron 28. This building was commissioned by the Lübeck merchant Johan Martin Schön. The building has a memorial plaque for the Finnish War Children; the unaccompanied refugees who came to Sweden during World War II.  
• 23 Skeppsbron 18. A neo-Baroque building finished in 1910. As of the 2020s it is the office of the investment company Kinnevik.  
• 2 First Hotel Reisen, Skeppsbron 12. Large 4-star hotel on east waterfront. The current building was finished in 1930.  
• 24 Gustav III statue. Gustav III ruled Sweden from 1771 to 1792. Inspired by the French Enlightenment, he was a patron of the arts, founding the Swedish Academy, the Opera, and a collection of ancient sculptures, today on display in the Palace. He was assassinated at a masquerade ball in the Opera House. The statue was erected in 1808 on the quay where he landed after his victory against Russia in 1790.  
• 25 Royal Palace (Kungliga Slottet). The Royal Palace remains the monarch's official residence, but King Carl XVI Gustaf, reigning since 1973, lives in Drottningholm in Ekerö. Most of the palace is open to the public, unless being used for a state ceremony. Entrance ticket includes The Royal Apartments, the Tre Kronor Museum, the Treasury, and Gustav III's Museum of Antiquities. Since 2011, a restoration of the Palace's exterior is under way, scheduled to finish in 2050.  
• 10 Royal Palace's southern wing (Kungliga Slottet). The southern wing was intended to represent the Nation. 
• 11 Royal Palace's eastern wing. The eastern wing of the Palace was intended to symbolise the female, in particular the Queen. It contains a setback for a garden, Logården, open for special events. 
• 12 Royal Palace's northern wing. The northern wing was intended to symbolise the Power. It is the oldest, as construction began in the 17th century, before the 1697 fire. 
• 13 Solsångaren (The Sun Singer.). A 1926 statue by Carl Milles.  

Norrmalm

• 26 The Royal Swedish Opera (Operan) (T-Centralen). This 1898 building, stages classical operas in original language or Swedish, as well as classical ballets and concerts. The first opera house was built in 1782, commissioned by King Gustav III; 10 years later he was assassinated at a masquerade ball in the same building (which was torn down in 1892). The Opera House offers guided tours. Strömterrassen is a café open at summer, with an astounding view of the Royal Palace.  
• 3 Grand Hôtel, Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8. A Grand Old Hotel opened in 1874 overlooking the Royal Palace, and the usual accommodation for visiting heads of state, Nobel laureates and pop stars. The first Nobel Prize ceremonies were held here, and room No 702 is the astounding Nobel Room, where the literature prize winners stay overnight. The restaurant gives an excellent Swedish smörgåsbord, and the piano bar is a delightful end-of-the-evening place to get a sophisticated drink.  
• 14 National Museum of Fine Arts (Nationalmuseum), Södra Blasieholmshamnen. Sweden's national museum for European art and interior design opened in 1866. The neo-Renaissance building is impressive in its own right, with central heating and large gallery windows. The collection features Rembrandt, Rubens, Goya, Renoir, Degas and Gauguin, as well as Swedish artists such as Carl Larsson, Ernst Josephson, C F Hill and Anders Zorn. The 20th century is represented only through industrial design; modern and contemporary art can be found in Moderna Museet on Skeppsholmen.  
• 27 Radisson Blu Strand Hotel, Nybrokajen 9. Founded in 1912, previously owned by the Swedish Freemason Order, this waterfront hotel is a prominent example of Swedish architecture. 
• 4 Hallwyll Museum (Hallwyllska Museet), Hamngatan 4. This urban palace was built in 1898 for Walther och Wilhelmina von Hallwyl, collectors of art and antiques from around the world. Since 1938 it is a museum with a restaurant. While some rooms have a historic or geographic theme, the building is a showcase of upper-class life of the early 20th century.  

Strandvägen

Strandvägen was built in the 19th century, with residences of the rising capitalist class.

• 28 Playing bears. Made in 1909 by Carl Milles. 
• 29 Royal Dramatic Theatre (Dramaten), Nybroplan. Sweden's national theatre, built in Wienerjugend (art nouveau) style in 1908. The building has rich ornaments in gold and marble, and a row of sculptures, with a bust of playwright August Strindberg (1849-1912) whose play Master Olof inaugurated the building. A statue of actress Margaretha Krook (1925-2001) represents the theatre's later history. The building has a restaurant.  
• 30 Svenskt Tenn, Strandvägen 5 (T Östermalmstorg). A store for high-quality Swedish design, in business since 1924. Famous for its art deco collection.  
• 31 Hotel Diplomat, Strandvägen 7. As Sweden was one of few countries in Europe to stay outside World War II, Stockholm became a haven for diplomats and spies. The 1911 art nouveau palace at Strandvägen 7 has hosted several embassies; for the United States, Italy, Yugoslavia and Turkey, and the German military attaché. On the backstreet was the local branch of the German Nazi Party. Since 1966, one wing of the building is a hotel, appropriately named Diplomat. Businessman Raoul Wallenberg had his office here. He carried out a rescue mission at the Swedish Embassy in Budapest, saving some 10,000 Jews from the Holocaust. A bust of Wallenberg stands on the waterfront.  
• 32 Environmental obelisks (Miljöobelisker). Since 1994, these obelisks provide a live bar chart of pollution and other parameters for air and water in Stockholm. 

Djurgården

Djurgården was a royal park; since the 19th century it has hosted museums and exhibitions. This is a presentation of landmarks visible across the water.

• 15 Nordiska Museet (The Nordic Museum), Djurgårdsvägen 6-16 (On Djurgården, next to Djurgården bridge.). A museum of cultural history from 1520 to our days, in an impressive 1907 cathedral-like building on Djurgården. Exhibitions focus on Swedish handicraft, customs and traditions.  
• 16 Vasa Museum (Vasamuseet), Galärvarvsvägen 14. This museum displays the Vasa, a warship built for the Thirty Years War which sank in Stockholm Harbour on its maiden voyage in 1628, during the heyday of the Swedish Empire. Salvaged in 1961, the ship is almost wholly preserved, and is the only one of its kind.  
• 17 Kaknästornet. Stockholm's tallest free-standing building is a 155 metre brutalist TV tower from 1967. Not open to the public.  

Go next

• The Södermalm heights tour is a walk among more mundane 18th and 19th century buildings, with a panoramic view of Stockholm, and many arts and crafts galleries.
• Swedish Grace tour takes the timeline into the Roaring Twenties
• Functionalist architecture in Finland: Finland has a common history with Sweden, but became independent only in 1917. Most of Finland's monumental buildings are built in 20th-century style.