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city in Macedonia, Greece
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Thessaloniki (Greek: Θεσσαλονίκη) is the capital of the administrative region of Central Macedonia and the whole historical region of Macedonia, Greece, and is, at about one million inhabitants (2021), the second largest city in the country. More importantly, it is a city with a continuous 3,000-year history, preserving relics of its Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman past and of its formerly dominant Jewish population. Its Byzantine churches, in particular, are included in UNESCO's World Heritage list.

Understand

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History

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Once the biggest port of the Balkans, Thessaloniki is a city that has been conquered by many empires, with each one leaving its mark. One can find Ancient Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman buildings all throughout the city.

During the Ottoman years a sizeable Jewish community formed in the city, giving it the name 'The Jerusalem of the Balkans'. Muslims, Jews and Christians lived together in Thessaloniki for over 400 years. During the 1923 Greco-Turkish population exchange hundreds of thousands of Christians arrived from Asia Minor and most of the Muslims moved to Turkey. The 55,000 strong Jewish community was eradicated during the 1941-1945 German occupation, with 2,000 remaining after the war.

Orientation

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Aerial view of Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki lies on the northern fringe of the Thermaic Gulf on its eastern coast and is bound by Mount Chortiatis on its southeast. The metropolitan area, with population of about 1 million, can be divided roughly in 3 parts: The northwestern, the central and the southeastern.

The central part, corresponding to the region that used to be inside the Byzantine walls and can in turn be divided in the "Ano Poli" (Upper City) region which lies on the hillside that is actually the southwest end of Chortiatis, and the part of the city located between the Upper City and the sea.

The later is the "center" of Thessaloniki, as most commercial, entertainment and educational facilities can be found here, while it also remains a densely populated residential area. It is the area surrounded by the seafront to the southwest, Olibiados street to the northeast, Dimokratias square to the northwest and the University campus and the facilities of Thessaloniki International Fair to the southeast. Most places with tourist interest are either in the center or very close to it.

Most roads in the center are either parallel or perpendicular to the coastline. A simple rule that helps the visitor is that if the a street goes downhill, then following it will lead you to the sea. The biggest parallel streets to the sea starting from the sea are Leoforos Nikis, Tsimiski, Egnatia, Agiou Dimitriou and Kassandrou. The main vertical to the sea streets, starting from northwest, are Dragoumi, Venizelou, Aristotelous, Agias Sofias and Ethinikis Aminis.

Tourist information

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There are tourist info and ticket booths at the central bus stations. You can get a free bus line chart there. The tourist information office is at Tsimiski 136, a few minutes from the White Tower. It is open M-F 08:00-20:00, Sa 09:30-16:00 in winter and 08:00-20:00 in summer, Su closed. If you find it closed, walk up to Aristotelous and buy a map from Iannos bookshop. You can also visit the OASTH website.

Get in

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By train

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Caution Note: All international trains to Thessaloniki have been cancelled until further notice. More information can be obtained via the web page of TrainOSE.
(Information last updated 27 Apr 2022)

Thessaloniki is an important rail hub within Greece and it is quite easy to travel here by passenger trains. Hellenic Train operates up to six daily trains from Athens via Larissa. The journey used to take 4 hours but after a huge flood that destroyed the central part of the line it now takes around 5 hours. Restoration and improvement works are on the way and by 2025 the journey will again take 4 hours, possibly even lower. Additionally, there are trains from Alexandroupoli via Komotini, Xanthi and Serres in Western Thrace region. Regional trains connect with Florina, Kilkis, Kalampaka and several other cities in Northern Greece. Thessaloniki also has a suburban railway also operated by Hellenic Train that connects the city to Larissa via Katerini running multiple times a day and stopping at many smaller cities and villages that the Intercity Trains do not.

There are normally staff at all major stations to facilitate transportation of disabled persons.

  • 1 New Thessaloniki railway station (Νέος Σιδηροδρομικός Σταθμός Θεσσαλονίκης, Neos Sidirodromikos Stathmos Thessalonikis), Monastiriou St 28, ☏ +30 2130 121530. daily 05:00-00:30. Thessaloniki railway station (Q15116556) on Wikidata New Thessaloniki Railway Station on Wikipedia (updated Jan 2020)
  • 2 TrainOSE travel service (Thessaloniki TrainOSE travel service No. 4), 18 Aristotelous Str., ☏ +30 2130 121532, . M W 09:00-18:00, Tu Th F 09:00-21:00, Sa 09:00-15:00, Su closed. Recorded information about train departures are provided by TrainOSE, call 1440 for domestic departures from Thessaloniki. (updated Jan 2020)

Discounts

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Ask for these discounts even if the TrainOSE employee does not mention them:

  • Children (ages 4-12) get a 50% discount.
  • Youth under 26 and elderly over 65 get a 25% discount (not on ICE).
  • Disabled people and their escort get a 50% discount.
  • Groups get a 30-50% discount.
  • Two-way trips also get a discount.

By bus

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Thessaloniki is connected via the intercity KTEL bus network with every corner of Greece.

  • 3 Macedonia Intercity Bus Station (Υπεραστικού Σταθμού ΚΤΕΛ Μακεδονία), Giannitson 244 (In the westside of the city), ☏ +30 231 059 5400, fax: +30 231 054 4633, . 
  • 4 Halkidiki Bus Station (Σταθμού ΚΤΕΛ Χαλκιδικής). Terminal station for buses from Chalkidiki (Halkidiki). Located on the east side district of Pylaia. The station is served by bus line 45, which links the station with the Makedonia Bus Station and line 36, which links it with the Voulgari Bus Terminal. To reach the station from the airport, take bus 79 to IKEA, which is a major center for bus line transfers. Next, take bus 36, which passes by the Cosmos Mall and Balkan Center before reaching the KTEL Halkidiki bus station. Taxi service is available at the bus station. A ride into the town center (Arch of Galerius on Egnatia Road) should cost approximately €15. (updated Aug 2022)

Prominent long-distance bus connections

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  • Athens/Volos – Buses from Athens and Volos make the trip to Thessaloniki in about 6 hr 30 min and 2 hr 30 min, respectively, the former including a 20-min stop at a roadside restaurant, usually near Lamia, with toilet facilities. Buses are air-conditioned, and some offer WiFi internet access.
  • Belgrade – There are weekly departures to Belgrade (Serbia) from Thessaloniki and Athens, in the arrangement of the Greek and Serbian Agency. Ticket price in one direction from Thessaloniki to Belgrade is about €45.
  • Istanbul – Regular buses between Istanbul and Athens also call in Thessaloniki.
  • Skopje – A number of local travel agencies in Skopje also arrange transport to Thessaloniki daily by car or minibus. These generally leave around 05:00, and cost around €25 for a day return (returning at 17:00) or a single (i.e. €50 if you want to come back on a different day from when you leave) The travel agent at the back of the shopping mall by the Central Square arranges this departing from beside the Holiday Inn. Others depart from the bus station, or other locations around the city. Simeonidis tours, N⁰ 14, 26th October St. There is one bus daily departing for Thessaloniki from the central bus station in Skopje and it takes about 5 hr to Thessaloniki. It departs at 06:00. Reservations are recommended.
  • Sofia – There are at least four daily buses from Sofia, Bulgaria which pass through Thessaloniki, plus several non-daily. Prices are generally around 50 Bulgarian leva. See here for more info.
  • Tirana – There are a number of buses to Thessaloniki and Athens every day, departing from most major Albanian cities. You can catch a bus from Tirana or Shkodra and travel all the way south, making stops in most major Albanian and Greek cities. Since buses stop to pick up and drop passengers in most major cities, you can catch the bus at those cities en route.
  • Budapest — Buses to Budapest do not run everyday and the journey is quite long. It may involve stops in Skopje, Belgrade and Nis.
Macedonia Airport enjoys a seaside location, making approaches quite scenic

By plane

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  • 5 Thessaloniki International Airport "Macedonia" (SKG  IATA) (lies 15 km south of the city center). The airport sees highly seasonal traffic, peaking in the summer months. International destinations particularly well served include most of the major European airports and destinations in the Middle East and Turkey. Thessaloniki Airport "Makedonia" (Q127958) on Wikidata Thessaloniki International Airport "Macedonia" on Wikipedia (updated May 2024)

The domestic flight network is quite extensive, with most flights provided by either Aegean Airlines, its regional subsidiary Olympic Air an operator of subsidized public-service-obligation flights to less frequently served destinations, Sky Express a new greek airline that offers cheap flights to Athens and multiple islands. Some domesitc connections are also provided by major European low-cost airlines like Ryanair, EasyJet and WizzAir.

Apart from those, the majority of flights are charter and seasonal flights by holiday specialists. There is also substantial low-fare traffic by pretty much all major low-fare carriers in Europe, with Ryanair having a base at the airport and the largest number of connections out of those. When it comes to traditional international airlines, the airport is mainly served by those belonging to the Star Alliance, which also includes Aegean and Olympic, such as Austrian, Turkish and Swiss.

The airport is not as well served as the Athens airport, to which it is connected by multiple daily flights taking around 50 min, provided by multiple airlines. Aegean's frequent shuttle flights are of particular interest, as they can be booked on a common ticket with an Aegean or other Star Alliance flight to other destinations in Europe and beyond.

A luggage storage room is available on the arrival floor.

Getting there

A taxi ride may be a quicker, but much more expensive way to get to the city than the bus

The airport is 15 km south of the city centre.

  • By bus – The public transit connection is provided by bus line 01X, a 24/7 service between the airport, the New Railway Station, and the Macedonia InterCity Bus Terminal. Frequency is between 15 min and 30 min during the day. At night, the bus number changes to 01N and runs every 30 min. A ticket costs €1.90 for one trip (see Get around / By bus). Tickets can be bought at a vending booth at the airport bus stop or at ticket machines on the buses. However, for these exact change is needed. The ride from the airport to the city centre takes around 40 min. Buses can get very packed so do not expect a very comfortable ride.
Bus number 79 from the airport does not get you to the city centre but to A.S. IKEA bus terminal in the city's east side. However, from there you can take another bus (ask the counter), and the double ticket (stamped once in 79 and another time in the next bus) is just €1.20— in case you want to spare 80¢.
  • By taxi – A ride from the city centre costs about €15-20. It's hard to find one during peak hours (07:00-08:00, 14:00-16:00 and 19:00-21:00), so plan early. Taxi can be prearranged through travel apps like Booking.com as well as ordered on demand through FreeNow or Uber.
  • On foot – If you'd like a panoramic trail, after or between your flights, you can spend this time on a fairly pleasant river and sea-side trail. It starts about 600 m from the terminal, where the 1 airport's main access road crosses a small river. From there, a trail follows the river's right (NE) bank toward the north-west for about 1 km, until the river enters the sea; watch for water birds. From the river's mouth, the trail follows the sea coast to the NE and N for about 1 km, until it reaches the mouth of another little river. While not an official beach, swimming in the sea is possible. From that point, one can continue east for about 500 m along a small residential street named Floridas, until reaching the main highway (Leoforos Georgikis Scholis) just south of the 2 Lidl store. From there, two shopping centers, Hondos Center and IKEA (both with air conditioning, soft chairs, food, and free Wi-Fi) are within walking distance. From the 3 IKEA bus terminal you can take one of the bus lines to the city center (e.g. bus number 2) paying the standard one journey ticket price which is cheaper than taking the bus 01X/01N directly from the airport (see Get around / By bus). The trail takes about 1 hr one-way and of course can be done in the other direction if you are arriving from the city center at the IKEA bus terminal and have some time to kill before your flight.

By car

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Finding parking is difficult: be prepared to spend a lot of time looking for a place or to pay for space in the parking lot (starting from €4 for 3 hr). Don't assume you're safe from paying a fine just because locals flagrantly flout parking laws. Traffic congestion is a problem, largely due to double-parked cars, but generally fellow drivers and passers-by are helpful in showing you the way if you're lost.

Get around

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Map
The city centre of Thessaloniki
An OASTH bus leaving towards the A.S. IKEA terminal

By bus

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The city's bus company is called OASTH and runs a total of 85 different bus lines, which are the only public transportation within the city. Maps of the bus routes are available on OASTH's website. Moovit or Rome2Rio mobile apps can be used to plan the journey and check the schedule on the go. Bus services usually operate from 05:00 until just after midnight.

Bus number 50 ("cultural line") follows a figure-of-8 route past all the major tourist sights. There is an English speaking guide aboard, who provides you with maps and information. The whole route takes 50 min, and it departs every hour on the hour from the White Tower. The connection to the airport is provided by bus 01X, which runs as 01N in the night (the only night bus line in the city).

The 01N night bus runs from 22:00-05:00 every 30 minutes on average. Being the only public transportation option after 00:00 it is usually packed with people, especially on Friday and Saturday nights, so don't count on it if you have a late night flight to catch.

This being Greece, the bus drivers go on strike occasionally. Notices about strikes may appear (in Greek only, naturally) at the bus stops information panels.

Tickets

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Ticket machine inside the bus.

Tickets can be bought at OASTH's ticket outlets and at machines on the buses. Certain types of tickets (see below) are also available at various other sales points. There are five types of tickets available:

  • One journey ticket: €0.9; valid for one journey on all lines except 50, 01X and 01N.
  • Two journey ticket: €1.10; valid for two journeys on all lines except 50, 01X and 01N, the second journey starting within 70 min of the first.
  • Three journey ticket: €1.30 from OASTH's ticket outlets or on the bus; valid for three journeys on all lines except 50, 01X and 01N, the third journey starting within 90 min of the first.
  • Four journey ticket: €1.90 from OASTH's ticket outlets or on the bus; valid for four journeys on all lines except 50, 01X and 01N, the fourth journey starting within 120 min of the first.
  • Airport line (01X/01N) / Cultural line (50) ticket: €1.8 from OASTH's ticket outlets or on the bus; valid only on these lines.

Students, persons aged over 65, and persons with over 67% disability get a 50% discount if they have the documents required by OASTH to prove it. Accompanied children under the age of six ride for free.

1-, 3-, 6- and 12-month cards for unlimited journeys on all lines (including the Airport line 01X/01N and the Cultural line 50) are also available. They are valid from the first day of the month they were issued until the last day of the month, third month, sixth month, or year. A photo-ID and a recent photograph are required to issue such cards. An one-month card costs €30.

By taxi

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FreeNow app helps to order a taxi in Thessaloniki.

By bicycle

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Bicycle lanes often do not exist, even on main roads. Sometimes, there are bicycle lanes on the pavement. There is a decent bicycle lane that runs along the seafront. You should always be very careful.

ThessBike is a bike sharing system with stations mainly near the center of the town. More stations located in other areas are being planned. You can either become a subscriber or pay per hour. In general, expect to pay €1 per hour.

The White Tower of Thessaloniki is the city's landmark

The northernmost 1 Byzantine Walls of the city and parts of the eastern walls are still standing, as is the city's symbol, the White Tower. The rest of the walls are in the picturesque Upper Town which offers a spectacular view over the bay, especially in the late afternoon.

The city is also known as "the mother of Israel", due to the once flourishing Jewish community here, which existed from the Roman period and grew substantially after the Ottoman Empire took in Jewish refugees expelled Spain, Portugal, and Spanish territories in Italy; these Jews are known as "Sephardim". Sephardi Jews formed a significant percentage of the city's population and infrastructure until World War II, when, in spring 1943, almost all were deported by the Nazis to the extermination camp at Auschwitz, never to return. However, there are still two Synagogues, and you can see the Jewish Museum.

Also interesting are the Turkish public baths Bey Hamam, the Bezesteni (Ottoman closed market for jewellery and precious materials) the Alatza Imaret (Ottoman poorhouse) and Hamza Bey Camii (both restored and used for exhibitions).

Seafront and lower town

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  • 2 White Tower, ☏ +30 2313-306400, . Summer 08:00-20:00, winter 08:00-16:00. A 16th-century fortified tower, part of the city's erstwhilse Byzantine walls - the only surviving one on the seafront. Apr-Oct €6 and €3 reduced, Nov-Mar €3. White Tower of Thessaloniki (Q550576) on Wikidata White Tower of Thessaloniki on Wikipedia 
  • 3 Aristotelous Square. the biggest of the city-and the promenade with its cafes and restaurants. Aristotelous Square (Q667472) on Wikidata Aristotelous Square on Wikipedia 
  • 4 Eleftherias Square (Πλατεία Ελευθερίας). In July 1942, during the Nazi occupation, all Jewish men aged 18 to 45 years old were brought here and were ordered to perform humiliating acts. Eleftherias Square (Q20717313) on Wikidata Eleftherias Square on Wikipedia 
  • The bustling Modiano and Kapani markets - see "Buy" below for details.
  • 5 Roman forum. 09:00-16:00. Excavations and a very interesting museum underneath. €4. Roman Agora of Thessaloniki (Q16932289) on Wikidata Roman Forum (Thessaloniki) on Wikipedia (updated Jun 2019)

Upper town

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Visit the upper town for its traditional old houses, small cobbled streets, Byzantine citadel, the Eptapyrgion fort. Next to the Rotunda, see the Arch of Triumph of Galerius and the ruins of his palace.

  • 6 Heptapyrgion (Επταπύργιο, Yedi Kule). Medieval fort and jail built by the Ottomans, overlooking the city. Heptapyrgion (Q1572213) on Wikidata Heptapyrgion (Thessaloniki) on Wikipedia (updated Apr 2022)
  • 7 Trigoniou tower (Πύργος Τριγωνίου). There is an observation deck just outside the tower, offering great views of the city. 
  • 8 Thessaloniki Zoological Garden (Ζωολογικός Κήπος Θεσσαλονίκης). A small municipal zoo with many hilly climbs. The exhibited animals are mostly goats, sheep, ducks, deer, and peacocks. Admission is free. 
The Agia Sofia church

Paleochristian and Byzantine monuments

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On no account should you miss the Byzantine churches built between the 5th and 14th centuries, some of which are on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

  • 9 Rotunda, St. George Square. Started life as a Roman temple of Zeus, built by Caesar Galerius, and is almost as old as the Pantheon in Rome. The monument has a diameter of 24.5 m and its dome reaches a height of 30 m. It was converted into a Christian church during the Early Christian era, and its interior was decorated with magnificent mosaics. However some inside frescoes are a work of the British artist Alexander Rossi (1840-1916). In 1591 the Rotunda was converted into a mosque, and a tall minaret still stands beside the monument. Frequent earthquakes from the early 7ᵗʰ century until 1978 caused several damage. The latter caused the destruction of the dome section. After being restored, the monument reopened to the public in 1998. Rotunda (Q1584841) on Wikidata 
  • 10 Saint Demetrios (Agios Demetrios). Constructed in the mid-7th century on the ruins of a Roman bath complex, in honor of Demetrius, a Roman officer who was imprisoned and martyred here in 303 AD. An earlier small church, built on the site of martyrdom, burned down during the earthquake of 620 and a new large basilica was erected at expenses of Leontius, the Byzantine prefect of Illyricum and the Bishop of Thessaloniki. The new church of S. Demetrios became one of the most famous centers of pilgrimage for Orthodox Christians until its Muslim conversion in 1492. In the Great Fire of Thessaloniki of 1917 the basilica was gutted. The work of restructuring the church lasted fifty years. Most of the ancient mosaics in the western wall and in the inner central aisle survived the heat from the fire. free. Hagios Demetrios (Q730019) on Wikidata Hagios Demetrios on Wikipedia 
  • 11 Church of the Acheiropoietos (Panayia Acheiropoietos), Agias Sofias 56. A 5th-century church included in Thessaloniki’s UNESCO World heritage. Church of the Acheiropoietos (Q1584774) on Wikidata Church of the Acheiropoietos on Wikipedia 
  • 12 Latomou Monastery. 
  • 13 Hagia Sophia (Agia Sofia). 9th century, one of the oldest churches in the city still standing today. World Heritage Site. free. Hagia Sophia (Q1568660) on Wikidata Hagia Sophia, Thessaloniki on Wikipedia 
  • 14 Panagia Chalkeon. Church of Panagia Chalkeon (Q1650229) on Wikidata Church of Panagia Chalkeon on Wikipedia 
  • 15 Saint Catherine. Church of Saint Catherine, Thessaloniki (Q1742784) on Wikidata Church of Saint Catherine, Thessaloniki on Wikipedia 
  • 16 Saint Panteleimon. Church of Saint Panteleimon (Q1504607) on Wikidata Church of Saint Panteleimon (Thessaloniki) on Wikipedia 
  • 17 Church of the Holy Apostles. Church of the Holy Twelve Apostles (Q1742795) on Wikidata Church of the Holy Apostles (Thessaloniki) on Wikipedia 
  • 18 Saint Nicholas Orphanos. Particularly worth a look for its well-preserved early 14th Century Byzantine frescoes. See if you can spot one of the turtles in the garden. free. Church of Saint Nicholas Orphanos (Q1504317) on Wikidata Church of Saint Nicholas Orphanos on Wikipedia 
  • 19 Church of the Saviour. Church of the Saviour (Q1728464) on Wikidata Church of the Saviour, Thessaloniki on Wikipedia 
  • 20 Vlatades Monastery. Vlatadon Monastery (Q962846) on Wikidata Vlatades Monastery on Wikipedia 
  • 21 Church of Prophet Elijah. Church of Prophet Elijah (Q1147957) on Wikidata Church of Prophet Elijah (Thessaloniki) on Wikipedia 
The Ancient Forum

Museums and galleries

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Thessaloniki is home to many museums, mostly archaeological and ethnographic. The two big archaeological museums are in the city centre, under the OTE Tower at the CHANTH Square. It is possible to obtain a pass for €15 which allows entry into five museums (valid for three days): Thessaloniki Archaeological Museum, Museum of Byzantine Culture, White Tower, Archaeological Site and Museum of the Roman Agora, and Galerian Complex. Note that Winter opening times are shorter than Summer opening times.

Thessaloniki's 'Ano Poli' (Old City)
Map
Map of the region around Thessaloniki


  • Take a walk along the long seafront promenade (about 12 km altogether).
  • Thessaloniki Cultural Tour by public bus line 50: OASTH has launched a special “Cultural Route” (Bus No 50) to make the rich historical and cultural heritage of Thessaloniki more accessible to its citizens and visitors. The bus departs from the White Tower for a 50-minute tour around the citys main historical and cultural monuments. The tour is supported by a telematics based audio-visual material (in Greek and English), as well as by printed leaflets (also in Greek and English and soon in more foreign languages).
  • Thessaloniki has a very active nightlife, as a 2007 New York Times article called it "Seattle of the Balkans".
  • The very lively and youth-oriented international film festival is held in November, the International Trade Fair[dead link] in September.
  • 1 Thessaloniki Concert Hall, "25 Μartiou" Str. (near the Posidonio Athletic Center of Thessaloniki - Kalamaria). The venue includes a main hall of 1,400 seats, designed by the Japanese architect Arata Isozaki and inaugurated on 2 January 2000. The Thessaloniki State Symphony Orchestra plays Italian Operas and works of Greek composers. Current events listed on in their website. (updated Feb 2016)
  • 2 Waterland. A large water park near Tagarades Hill. Free bus service starting at the city centre. (updated Feb 2016)
  • Go to the beach . There are frequent ferry services from the Port and White Tower to the sandy beaches of Peraia, Neoi Epivates (and some to Agia Triada) - expect a 40 minute trip each way. These have a range of bars and restaurants.
  • Watch football . The city has two teams playing in the Super League, the top tier of Greek football. PAOK FC play at Toumba Stadium, capacity 29,000, 2 km southeast of city centre. Aris Thessaloniki FC play at Kleanthis Vikelidis Stadium, capacity 22,800, a further kilometre south.
  • Join the amazing World Naked Bike Ride in Thessaloniki every year in June. A celebration of Cycling, Environment, Body Freedom!

Yachting

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Thermaikos Gulf is a challenging place for yachting and sailing. Many days there are strong North winds but with low waves making sailing a fun and joy for all sailors. There are three sailing clubs in Thessaloniki and world championships take place here every year. Thessaloniki has several marinas with a new one containing 182 mooring places under construction in the centre of the city and next to Aistotelous square. There are a couple of yacht charter companies renting sailing yachts.

Clothing

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For fashion, Tsimiski (the main fashion street, which runs parallel to Egnatia Road and is southwest of it, with shops such as Zara and H&M), Proxenou Koromila, and Mitropoleos. You won't find many bargains, but the shopping area is conveniently small and full of cafes when you get too tired. For cheaper clothing, check out Egnatia Road.

Books

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Books and maps in various languages can be bought in stores such as:

  • Ianos bookshop, Aristotelous Sq (in the city centre). Books & art-objects, cultural events. 
  • Maliaris-Pedia bookstore

Also in the 9th International Book Fair, that is held annually in late spring.

Food

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You can buy local food products, such as olive oil, sometimes at significantly lower prices than in nearby countries.

For eating out, see the "Eat" section below

For food specialities, go to Modiano market and try the Terpsis and Omega delicatessens (the most famous is Kosmas, but it specialises in Asian food). Any Greek will expect you to bring back sweets from Salonica, so try tsoureki, plaited sweetened breads for which Terkenlis is famous, and desserts (baklava and galaktoboureko) e.g. or Nikiforou on Venizelou street. The most famous of the baklava joints is Hatzis, but fame has not made it any better - it's become overpriced and not as good as in previous years.

For a morning or late-night snack, try Bougatsa pies: cream (sweet) or cheese (savoury) filling.

  • 1 Modiano market. The traditional central food market, with hundreds of stalls selling meat, fish, fruit, vegetables (sometimes cheek-by-jowl, an unnerving experience for North Americans), cheap clothes and shoes, flowers, herbs and spices, near Aristotele Square.
    The indoor portion is closed for an extensive renovation. It was supposed to reopen in 2021, but as of August 2022 the work is ongoing. The shops in the back alleys are still good for a wander.     Modiano Market (Q15711710) on Wikidata Modiano Market on Wikipedia (updated Aug 2022)
  • 2 Kapani Market, . The city's oldest market, with a wide variety of shops. Kapani (Q16329958) on Wikidata (updated Feb 2020)

Sweets and pastry

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If you like sweets, there are 3 typical pastry shops you should try, typical of this city:

  • Chatzis. It is famous for its collection of Greek Asia Minor sweets (politika glyka) originating from Constantinople. 
  • Terkenlis. It is famous for its variety of "tsoureki", a sweet bread much like challah or brioche but containing spices too, covered and filled with several combinations of chocolates, creams, and nuts. (updated Jan 2022)
  • Elenidis. It is considered the expert in "trigona" (triangles made of sfoglia, filled with cream). 
  • Choureál. Very popular for its profiterole

Popular winter drink: hot sahlep (salepi) by wayfarers.

Landmark summer drink: frappé coffee, iced coffee drink generally made from spray-dried instant coffee, water, sugar, and milk, the hallmark of postwar outdoor Greek coffee culture, once by far the most popular among young people, invented in 1957 in Thessaloniki International Fair.

This page uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:
BudgetUnder €15
Mid-range€15-€20
Splurge€20-€30 and up

Greeks consider Thessaloniki a gourmet city - but bear in mind that this refers to the excellent local specialities and cheap-and-cheerful ouzo taverns rather than to haute cuisine or a range of foreign restaurants. The latter are best avoided in Thessaloniki.

  • Try a crepe in one of the numerous crepe shops patronised by the student population at Gounari St, near Navarinou Sq.
  • There are plenty of shops selling gyros. Usually there are pork and chicken gyros. This is the best calories per money option, since with less than €3 you get a meal that, although not that healthy, can keep you going for many hours.
  • During the winter you can try roasted chestnuts (kastana in Greek) that are sold from carts.
  • During the summer one can buy boiled or roasted corn on the cob that is sold from carts. Cost €1-2.
  • You can try stafidopsomo, a small bread with raisins, or koulouri a donut-shaped small bread with sesame. You can find them sold in a bakery or on carts. Cost: €0.50.
  • For breakfast you can have a bougatsa, a type of cream pie, that Thessaloniki is famous for. You can accompany it with a cacao milk or coffee.
  • For a carnivore's treat, try soutzoukakia: minced meat pellets either grilled (at the central market or rotisseries) and topped with chilli pepper flakes, or cooked in tomato and cumin sauce (Smyrna-style).
  • For a late night (or early morning) meal try patsas (Tripe soup).
  • Seafood: gemista kalamarakia (stuffed squid), mydopilafo (rice with mussels) or mydia saganaki (mussels in tomato sauce).
  • 1 ΚΛΕΑ Fine Bakery. Cafe with light meals and takeaway. (updated May 2018)
  • 2 Villa Luna. Ask to eat in the restaurant terrace - fantastic views at sunset. (updated May 2018)

Budget

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Go for a meal in one of the many central ouzo restaurants (ouzeri). Accompany your ouzo or tsipouro with a battery of small dishes - by far the best way to eat in Salonica. Particularly good are the fava beans, octopus either grilled or in wine sauce and mussels (fried, or in pilaff, or with a hot cheese sauce, saganaki). If you see "boiled vegetables' on the menu in wintertime, you'll be amazed at how good they taste. Another typical winter salad is politiki, a combination of shredded cabbage and pickles.

Many fast food options are found on the Dimitriou Gounari Street (between Rotonda and the sea).

All these are in the city centre:

  • 3 Porto Gyros, El. Venizelou 2. Delicious gyros, nice and polite staff, very close to the seafront of Thessaloniki. The gyros is for €4.50. Some tables to eat on site. Hospitable and competent staff. (updated May 2022)
  • 4 Evi Evan, Olympou 68 (Bit-Bazaar). A nice small place near the ancient market of Thessaloniki. Very cozy and nicely decorated. The personnel are very friendly and helpful and eager to make you feel welcome. Very nice place with traditional style and music. You will get nice plates and local drinks. (updated May 2022)
  • 5 Verges Lagies, Βενιζέλου 63. Reminiscent of old taverns from the 80s with very helpful staff and respect for the customer. Really nice charcoal grill food. Small bistro and worthwhile a try. Good quality for little money. (updated May 2022)
  • 6 Pizza Chris, Armenopoulou 17. One of the nicest pizzas in Thessaloniki. Well made dough and incredible flavors. The pizza slices are only €1.50. (updated May 2022)
  • 7 Tarantoúla, Arrianou 16. Nice place with good vegan food. This is the best place to enjoy vegan mezze in Thessaloniki. You can find a decently sized menu with several options to choose from. The space is very alternative but small with some outdoor seating and expect to have to wait for seating if you arrive at peak hours. The beet salad is fresh and delicious. (updated Aug 2022)
  • 8 Nostimo - The Art In Taste, Fotakou 5. Very tasty homemade food with lots of vegetables from their garden. Friendly staff, affordable rates, nice and clean interiors (updated May 2022)
  • 9 Ouzománia, Paster 5. This is a small tavern. One of the oldest ouzories. Kind staff and great atmosphere. (updated Aug 2022)
  • 10 Olive Oil & Oregano (Λάδι και Ρίγανη), Ερμού και Αριστοτέλους 20. 12:00–00:00. (updated Oct 2022)

Mid-range

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  • 11 Agora, Kapodistriou 5 (Off Ionos Dragoumi). Ouzo restaurant (ouzeri) in one of the most interesting old downtown areas. (updated Aug 2022)
  • 12 To Manitari, Themistokli Sofouli 57, Kalamaria, ☏ +30 2310 415289. 13:00-00:00. Mediterranean cuisine, with an emphasis on seafood. Offers vegetarian options. Well-supplied with many regional Greek wines. €10-30 (March 2022). (updated Aug 2022)
  • 13 Omilos The Beach Club, Leof. Meg. Alexandrou 12 (in Sailing Club of Thessaloniki), ☏ +30 2310 869950, . Daily 10:00-00:00. Regional Greek ingredients. (updated Aug 2022)
  • 14 Nea Diagonios, Themistokli Sofouli 64A (Take the bus 5 from Aristotelous square stop at Akaion Station), ☏ +302310029085, . 12:30-00:00. Here you can eat pork gyros and soutzoukakia from executive chef Ioannis Chantakis €25 (Nov 2015). (updated Aug 2022)
  • 15 Pire kai vradiazei (Πήρε και βραδιάζει), Omirou 7 (Off Theagenio Hospital). Great taverna, unique style, good food and some days (Th-Su) live music. (updated Aug 2022)
  • 16 Toixo Toixo (Wall by Wall), Polydorou 1 (Ano Poli (Kastra)). An hipster hang-out, nice atmosphere, very expensive for the quality. (updated Aug 2022)
  • 17 Tsarouchas (Τσαρούχας), Olymbou 78 (Off Ancient Forum). 24/7. For those with adventurous tastes, preferably go after a hard night's drinking, for a "patsás" (tripe) soup - a delicious way to prevent a hangover. (updated Aug 2022)
  • 18 Ouzo Melathron, Karipi 21. (updated Feb 2016)
  • Heavy Melon (Vary Peponi, Βαρύ Πεπόνι), Apellou 4, ☏ +30 231 024 3332. 14:00-00:00. Traditional Greek, Mediterranean and Middle-Eastern recipes. Also, a selection of desserts. (updated Nov 2019)
  • Glykia Symoria, Ioustinianou and Zaliki 1 (Bit-Bazaar). (updated May 2022)
  • Goody's. It is the Greek fast-food chain. You will find classic hamburgers, also souvlaki, pasta and salads. 
  • Apo Dyo Horia (Navarinou Sq). Cretan and Pontian restaurant. Here, order raki rather than ouzo or tsipouro. 
  • Kamaras (Near Rotonda). Great traditional dishes. 
  • Lila Cafe Bistro, Diogenus 23 (Ano Toumba district), ☏ +30 2310 947377. Traditional pies and sweets, croissant and dishes accompany the coffee or your drink. Porcelain miniatures and collective drinks are available for original gifts. 
  • Myrsini (Behind the state theatre Etairia Makedonikon Spoudon). Good Cretan restaurant. 
  • Pizza da Pepe, Stefanou Tatti 10 (Side street off Egnatia, near Aghia Sophia Church), ☏ +30 2310 242407. For the best pizzas in town head here. 
  • Tombourlika (Τομπουρλίκα), Navmachias Limnou 14 (Off Vardaris Sqare), ☏ +30 2310 548193. Great traditional ouzeri, with fresh fish and meat dishes and live rembetico music. 

Splurge

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  • Krikelas, Ladadika (Near Morichovou Sq). 
  • Odos Aristotelous (Lepen), Odos Aristotelous. Most Salonicans know it as the "Lepen". 
  • Zythos-Dore (White Tower Square). An upmarket brasserie with a wide range of specialties and interesting ambiance. 

Drink

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Thessaloniki is by far the liveliest city in Northern Greece- maybe even the whole country. Most of the trendy bars at the old sea-front (Nikis Ave.) and around, many of the tavernas are either downtown or in the old city (Kastra). You can also find numerous bars and tavernas at Krini, an area in eastern Thessaloniki. If you want to check out what the whole bouzoukia scene is all about, try the clubs Pyli Axiou and Mamounia, at Vilka. You will also find a lot of night clubs, bars and restaurants in Ladadika, the neighbourhood with the old warehouses next to the port. The student area is around Kamara (the Arch of Galerius), with many cheaper cafes and bars.

If you will be in town during summer, take a ride on the floating bars plying the harbour. Every 2 hr or so they leave from the White Tower area for a short evening trip (30 min) in the Gulf of Thessaloniki. They play mostly ethnic and alternative foreign music.

A beer would cost you €3-7, an alcohol drink €5-10 and a coffee €2.50-5.

Aristotelous Square

Among the most popular places to drink a coffee or a beer are:

  • Aristotle Sq (Aristotelous) - The most popular tourist cafés and bars lie in the central square of the city and the homonymous street. One can find quiet cafes or noisy ones usually preferred by the young. Breakfast is also served, some restaurants are also available.
  • Nikis’ Av - The centre’s seafront avenue is full of cafeterias usually crowded around the clock, available for coffee in daytime and beer or drink at night.
  • Proxenou Kroromila St - Parallel to the seafront Nikis avenue is Pr. Koromila street with some cafés and bars.
  • Iktinou pedestrian - Another place in the city with cafes and bars and a couple of restaurants. The last two years a "street beer" culture has been created by both locals and students. People just buy beer from the kiosks and hang out on the surrounding benches. This is probably one of the most economic ways to drink some Retsina and socialize with locals.
  • Ladadika district - At the west side of the center lies the picturesque neighbourhood of Ladadika (meaning: oil stores). Named this way by the many stores selling oil arrived from the adjacent harbour. This district used to be notorious but has been renovated, and many stone build warehouses now host the most known nightclubs with all sorts of music including traditional Greek bouzoukia.
A street in the Ladadika neighbourhood
  • Aretsou - Aretsou is in the southeast part of the city, in the Kalamaria District. In the seafront Plastira Av. are restaurants which change to bars during night featuring loud music and hosting many young.
  • Karabournaki - A place in Kalamaria district hosting delicate bars, restaurants and pizzerias. All of them along Sofouli street next to the seashore.
  • Boat bars - Quite interesting are the boats near the white tower’s seafront, which make a short trip around Thermaikos gulf where you can enjoy a late night city view. Most of them play ethnic and alternative foreign music.
  • 1 Vilka (The area around the old trains station) - A set of high-range café, bars, restaurants, disco, ouzeris some with live music at the city’s west.
  • Valaoritou and Syggrou - A lot of Thessaloniki's nightlife has moved here. The old industrial centre has become a place for entertainment for everybody. Many bars, clubs and cafes may remind you of Berlin, or English pubs.
  • 2 Mylos Club, 56 "Andrea Georgiou" Str., ☏ +30 231 051 0081. Hosting concerts, events, exhibitions, music bands, famous Greek artists etc. Venue can change. Check their page on Facebook. (updated Feb 2016)

Sleep

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Budget

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  • 1 Little Big House Hostel, 24 Andakidou St, ☏ +30 231 3014323, . This is a new hostel in Thessaloniki run by a brother and sister who are hosts. They have five rooms in a reconstructed house, each room with private bathroom and kitchenette and big lockers. There is also a common room and kitchen, and a nice, cozy garden area with tables and chairs. Welcome drink, maps of the city, wifi and linens, tea and coffee, all free. Laundry and breakfast for €2. €17 for bed in 6-person dorm, €19 for bed in 4-person dorm. 
  • Backpackers Refuge, ☏ +30 698 3433591, . Near the city centre (5-min bus ride) and the water front (7 min on foot) is well connected to the train station, bus station and the airport. 24 hr hot water, free linen, washing machine, kitchen, free city map, info available about Thess, and activities in northern Greece. Pick up and other transport options, free internet. Only a small capacity and advanced booking is recommended-staff is not present around the clock. 6 bed dorm €15. 
  • 2 Studios Arabas, Sachtouri 28 (Σαχτούρη 28), ☏ +30 697 381 7188. €11.50 for dorm. 
  • 3 [dead link] The Tourist Hotel, 21, Mitropoleos St (Right in the center), ☏ +30 2310 270501, . 2-star hotel, cheap, clean and welcoming. Single, double or triple rooms. Free WiFi. Parking with an extra charge of €15 per day. €75 for a double room including breakfast. 
  • 4 Rex Hotel, Monastiriou 39, ☏ +30 231 051 7051, . Cheap hotel opposite the train station towards the centre. Only a 5-min walk from train station. Not great, but adequate. Two-bedroom in peak season €60. 
  • Hotel Acropoli. Close to the train station. Clean but shabby rooms, most with a balcony. A triple costs €80 or €60 for a double. 
  • 5 Alexandria Hotel, 18 Egnatia St (there is a bus stop outside, buses link to train station, bus station and airport), ☏ +30 2310 536185, . Check-out: 12:00. Bang in the centre of Egnatia Str., with easy bus connections. Friendly staff. Price includes private bathroom, A/C, WiFi, fridge and TV. Snacks and laundry for extra charge. €33 for twin room. (updated Feb 2016)
  • 6 RentRooms Thessaloniki, Konstantinou Melenikou 9, ☏ +30 2310 204080, . Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:00. Travellers and backpackers hostel. Nice & clean rooms and dorms with balconies. Cafeteria garden for drinks and snacks near a green park. It is in city centre's university side, overlooking "Rotonda" UNESCO World Heritage Roman monument site. Cozy atmosphere and friendly staff really helpful. Available breakfast and bicycles. Free internet stations, WiFi in rooms and common areas. (updated Nov 2017)
  • 7 Hotel Pefka (Pefka Hotel). (updated May 2018)

Mid-range

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There are many hotels in the area a few blocks north of Aristotelous. Some of these are a bit upmarket, but if business is slack it is worth shopping around - they might give you a good discount rather than turn you away.

Splurge

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Connect

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As of Sept 2021, Thessaloniki has 5G from Cosmote and 4G from Wind and Vodafone. WiFi is widely available in public places.

Stay safe

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Watch your pockets and travel documents as there are pickpockets, especially in buses during rush hour. Some people may feel very uncomfortable walking in the areas around the railway station at night, and it's better to avoid them along with areas like Dendropotamos, and Sfageia. These areas are full abandoned buildings and factories and are a hotspot for drug-use and prostitution.

Police number: 100

Stay healthy

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Tap water is safe to drink. In some places in the city centre you might get a slight "taste" from the water. That means that the pipes in the building are getting old, so you might want to buy bottled water.

Greece is a sunny place, and if your skin is light-coloured, intense sunlight can be a serious danger. The sun can be strong at noontime and during the early afternoon, even during the autumn and spring. Use sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses.

Emergency phone number: 112

Cope

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Consulates

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Go next

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Kavala Port & Old Town

The suburb of Panorama is well heeled and has good restaurants, and spectacular views over Thessaloniki - especially at sunset.

The classic trips out of Thessaloniki are:

Thasos, Scala Potamia
  • Thasos island – A green island with high mountains and wonderful beaches. You can visit the island on a day trip but its definitively worth to spent more days. There are ferry boats from Kavala harbor and Keramoti.
    Halkidiki
  • Halkidikí peninsula – There are 500 km of wonderful beaches on the two first fingers of this peninsula, one of the main tourist destinations of Greece. The first "finger" from the West is called Kassandra and its the place where many Salonicans (and tourists) spend their holidays. The second "finger" called Sithonia is the most beautiful place of Halkidiki both in landscape and beaches. In the summer, the Armenistis campground (Sithonia peninsula) stages concerts and other events. Also check out the jazz and classical concerts in Sani (Kassandra peninsula). Try to schedule your visit in summer so that you're not driving back to the city on Sunday evening. The third finger is the monastic community of Mount Athos. Mount Athos is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This peninsula houses over 1,700 monks in 20 Eastern Orthodox monasteries. The visit is strictly controlled and only male visitors are allowed. Tourist require a visa. But there are also sightseeing boats that offer tours around the peninsula (without landing). These do not require permits and are the only option for women who want to see Mount Athos. The boat tours start in Ouranopolis from about 10:00.
  • Mount Olympus coast (towards Platamonas) – A very scenic region which has fallen out of favour with the trendy set but has lost no business - it is now mainly catering to tourists from Eastern Europe.
  • Pella – The Macedonian capital during the time of Alexander the Great.
  • Vergina – The spectacular site of the Macedonian royal tombs.
  • Dion – A beautiful archaeological site near Mount Olympus.
  • Prespa and Doirani lakes – Near the borders with Albania and North Macedonia, respectively, the Prespas especially offering an austere and evocative Balkan landscape and plenty of birdwatching.
Routes through Thessaloniki
Igoumenitsa ← Vergina ←  W  E  → Asprovalta → Kavala


This city travel guide to Thessaloniki is a usable article. It has information on how to get there and on restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please feel free to improve it by editing the page.
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