UKK trail

The UKK trail is a legendary long-distance hiking route through much of Finland, all the way from Koli National Park in North Karelia to Urho Kekkonen National Park in Finnish Lapland, passing through several nature reserves and national parks. Most of the route is marked and well maintained, but there are several legs that are unmaintained and on them the original route may be unsuitable because of forestry or other activities.

Understand

Hepoköngäs falls in Puolanka. The trail passes many natural wonders.

See also: Hiking in the Nordic countries, Finnish National Parks

The trail is named after Urho Kaleva Kekkonen, President of Finland for most of the Cold War, who hiked the route in 1957. The total length of the UKK trail is, depending on source and the exact route chosen, 850–1,000 km. Some parts of the route have long ago been used for trade. The trail is part of the European long distance path E10 from Gibraltar to Nuorgam.

The trail goes through the regions of North Karelia, Kainuu and Northern Ostrobothnia (on Wikivoyage: Kainuu and Eastern Oulu region), and Lapland. It leads from Koli National Park in Lieksa, through Juuka, Nurmes, Valtimo, Sotkamo, Ristijärvi, Hyrynsalmi, Puolanka, Pudasjärvi, Taivalkoski, Posio and Salla to Urho Kekkonen National Park in Savukoski.

Not all the route is marked on maps or in the terrain. Many parts belong to local hiking trails, which are more easy to follow. Anyone who wants to walk the UKK trail end to end will need to make up their mind about how to handle possibly missing parts.

The route is part of European long distance path E10, which comes from Rügen, by (the possibly non-existent) ferry from Rostock to Helsinki and then from Hamina by the eastern border to Nuorgam. Some parts of the route (e.g. Hamina–Lieksa) are just planned and should either be improvised or covered by coach or similar means, and the work on the UKK stretch seems to have stalled.

The UKK trail in itself does not seem to have any official status. It has been discontinued by several municipalities, but it is well-known, Metsähallitus maintains much of it as separate legs and also municipalities that have discontinued the route as such may maintain parts of it for local use, sometimes still calling the legs the UKK trail.

Metsähallitus maintains or is otherwise involved in several parts of the trail: the leg in Lieksa (from Koli National Park to the municipal border), the legs through Sotkamo and onward to Syöte National Park, the leg through Riisitunturi National Park, the Karhunkierros trail, the leg from there to and through Salla National Park until Hanhikangas, and from Naruska to Haukijärvenoja, where the trail officially ends. These sections are consistently maintained, although infrastructure off the busiest legs may get into quite bad shape before maintenance is budgeted. Metsähallitus also maintains information on these legs on its nationalparks.fi website – but not all legs are called the UKK trail, connecting legs aren't always linked and some legs are not covered in detail.

The main gaps in the trail are those in Juuka between Itälahti and Juuka centre (4+10 km of it with no good route), from just before the border to Nurmes through that municipality (6+6 km of it with no good route), between Syöte National Park and Riisitunturi National Park (20 km of it with no good route), between the latter and Karhukierros (unmarked route to Ristiranta, then no good route for 9 km), and between Hanhikangas and Naruska (30 km with no good route). On the missing legs there are often parts of the UKK trail left, but they are not maintained as one trail or at all, and they may not combine well. Normal roads can be used instead, and often these are not too bad for hiking, although a bit boring and hard on your feet if the stretch is too long; the wood may be too dense for keeping to it to be worthwhile where there are no footpaths, or there may be fields and houses. At some such places you need to use the shoulder of a busy thoroughfare.

Tenämä in Ristijärvi. The trail is across the lake, but similar small roads are used for much of the distance.

Through national parks and on other busy sections the trail is often wide, allowing maintenance vehicles and a freestyle skiing lane in winter. Elsewhere the trail may be a narrow footpath, a wide forestry road with little traffic or a local road, looking like they did half a century ago. On missing legs you may also have to use paved roads with regular traffic.

As usually when hiking in Finland, most of the trail goes through sparsely inhabited areas. Service such as farmhouses with lodging and shops in villages are available only on some legs, while others lead through different kinds of preservation areas or unprotected forest. The nearest house may be several kilometres away. There are lean-to shelters and campfire sites along more or less all the trail, but some may not be properly maintained and not all have firewood provided. There are also open wilderness huts, although not too many, and at a few places there is also commercial lodging. Sauna is available at a few of the wilderness huts. At the unofficial legs there may be fresh clearings obstructing the trail.

The right to access gives you freedom to choose routes as you wish, regardless of who owns the land. The most important exceptions are nature reserves, where designated trails usually have to be followed at least part of the year, farmlands (and young forest) which may not be crossed if that would cause damage, and yards and gardens, where domestic privacy applies. Still, you should mostly use existing paths, to minimise wear of the ground.

The trail leads through taiga: mostly coniferous forest, with lakes, some deciduous woods, bogs and hills. In Lapland you will also have fell birch forest, larger mires and open fell landscapes. There shouldn't be any real fords, unless you hike off season.

Prepare

There are no fees to be paid, unless you are going to fish or use paid lodging, and no permits are needed, unless your route leads through the border zone or strictly protected areas.

Open fire requires landowner permission, so will mostly be restricted to maintained campfire sites. Have a camping stove and check how to resupply on fuel. Ethanol/methanol is widely used and should be available e.g. in fuel station shops, many village stores and in some national park visitor centres. Gas containers may also be available, but check that your type is one widely used here. Regardless of what you use, checking with the businesses where you intend to resupply does not hurt. Likewise, You may not be able to get special hikers' food at every shop (and shops are sparse on the trail). Plan your resupplies and check the available services, so that you have enough provisions where you need to be self-sufficient.

If you are going to use any of the few reserveable huts (a bed for €15) or rental huts (all the hut), check how to book, pay and get and return the keys.

There is usually an outhouse toilet by shelters and campfire sites maintained by Metsähallitus, but elsewhere there sometimes is nothing but the shelter. Carry toilet paper and a garden trowel. Washing your hands is nearly always your own problem.

Water is plentiful in most of Finland, and the trail leads from the Finnish Lakeland to Lapland, where this certainly applies. It is often potable as is. If you aren't sure about the quality, you could boil also good-looking water for a few minutes, but locals seldom do. Instead they just avoid water that they believe might not be up to their standards. In lowlands, where much of the water is still in bogs, and in the few places where the trail leads through more densely populated areas, you should still carry water.

Mosquitoes are a nuisance in summer (especially June–July), although they carry no diseases. You should have a mosquito-proof tent (perhaps a suitable net for overnighting in lean-tos), suitable clothes, repellent and perhaps a mosquito hat.

As the trail covers latitudes about from 63° to 68° N, 475 km of latitude, and will take considerable time on a through hike, you will need to prepare for changing weather. Your packing should still not be too heavy. Even on shorter legs, you may need to carry food for many days.

Get in

See articles on towns and parks that you are going to use as trailheads. In many areas the trail crosses roads with coach service. Taxis are available where you find a road, although not necessarily in the night and not in five minutes.

Walk

Koli-Juuka

The trail starts at Koli. After the border to Juuka it mostly follows narrow forest paths, forestry roads and other minor roads.

The section from Lieksa's border to the parish village of Juuka is not maintained any more, except for the shelters at Pieni Telynlampi (20 km from Hotel Koli) and Korkeavaara past Nunnanlahti. The paths and small roads it follows may still be there. The trail is marked on the map as going via Lintaniemi, Talvivaara and Haukivaara, the bottom of the Mellihtanlahti and over Telynvaara to the lean-to shelter at 1 Pieni Telynlampi (swimming possible). It continues via the farms Eerikkala and Pyltsy northward, then west by Pohjala of Itälahti (you might have to take the bridge instead). 2 km farther is Nunnanlahti, a bigger village on the Joensuu highway. Aim for the school and the beach in the north-west part of the village. A 3.5-km stretch of the UKK trail leads from the school to 2 Korkeavaara with nice views and a lean-to shelter, 12 km after Pieni Telynlampi and 9–10 km before the parish village.

Juuka-Nurmes

The maintained UKK trail continues by the sports field in Rostuvi, in the western end of the Juuka parish village, 2.5 km west from the Joensuu highway. The trail leads by many lakes, at a few point on narrow isthmuses.

There is a lean-to shelter 4 km (3 Sorveuskoski) and a campfire site another 2 km forward, by Ylimmäisenjärvi (shed, table, benches, beach). For the 4 Kangas-Valkeinen shelter (lean-to shelter, table and benches, beach), turn north when off the Ylimmäisenjärvi/Raittilampi isthmus. Return to the trail to the west, going south of Kaivos-Valkeinen. There is another lean-to shelter (5 Ruukinkoski) 6.5 km after Sorveuskoski by the trail. The next shelter, at Hepopuro after 6 km (still maintained?), is a kota, a Finnish version of a goahti. There is a campfire site 1 km farther, on the shore of Kiteenjärvi, and a wilderness hut 1 km farther along the lake shore: 6 UKK-tupa, with sauna, well and beach. The trail turns west, again north, reaches a road 1.8 km after the hut and follows it westward for 300 m, then turns north and leads via Käkipuronkangas to Porttilouhi 5.5 km from the hut.

1 Porttilouhi is a gorge, turning up suddenly, with an otherworldly ambiance. There is a cave and a campfire site. The place is said to have been used by shamans and traditional healers. Take a look also at the "amphiteatre", the north fork, used for sacrifices.

There is another campfire site 2 km farther, by Saaripuro and Saarilampi. This is the last maintained facility before the border to Nurmes.

Nurmes

Nurmes doesn't maintain the UKK trail and most of the trail is now more or less non-existent on many stretches. Don't depend on infrastructure being in place, or the footpath to be visible. You need to choose your route yourself where the trail is missing or destroyed by new developments. One option is to aim at Tiilikkajärvi National Park instead, then backtrack by coach to the Nurmes–Sotkamo border or to Valtimo. You could also just use normal small roads where the trail is missing.

Via Valtimo

Short stretches of the UKK trail are marked on the map. It seems you can get by more or less by footpaths and small roads. Cross the border to Nurmes west of Talkkunamäki and continue by Louhivaara. There is a shelter north of Louhivaara (7 Louhilampi shelter, 7.5 km after Saarilampi. Continue via the southern slopes of Kökönvaara to Välivaara and Kejolanvaara, east of Tiikkajalampi and a kilometre along the highway 6 (Joensuuntie). Just before the strait Aronsalmi there is a lean-to shelter (8 Aronsalmi), 8 km after Louhilampi. To the south-east you have a view towards Kojonselkä of Pielinen; looking in the right direction (through the sounds) there is no land for 40 km!

There are footpaths west of Lampovaara that you could use, crossing over the highway at Tievaara/Heinävaara. The UKK trail leads to a harness racing track in the Vanhakylä village 11 km from Aronsalmi. There is a (9 campfire site by Saarilampi east of the racing track, and possibly a lean-to shelter a bit north, adjacent to the track.

You are probably best off crossing the railway in Rauhala, where you can get mostly by forest paths north of highway 75 (Kuopiontie). From there you can get northward by forest paths and small roads to the lean-to shelter north of Kuokkasenvaara, 10 km from Vanhakylä: 10 Hiisilampi. Continue westwards by the footpath, passing just north of Ristivaara and turning north at Rämeelä. The UKK trail turns east and the path forks: turning to the right you end up in Paavola, north-west of the lake Lautiainen, turning left you continue by the UKK trail.

The trail leads over Louhivaara to the 11 Lehtomäki lean-to shelter. The UKK trail continues to the north-west to Rannankylä and Valtimo centre.

From Valtimo the trail continues to the north-north-east to a 12 campfire site. From here it leads to the north-west, north-east and north to a kota by Halmejärvi (13 Mäntykangas kota, a 14 lean-to shelter and a campfire site at Tavikoski of Verkkojoki. The trail turns westward, crossing Selkäsuo by duckboards (which may be in bad condition), continues towards the small rapids Rumonkosket and turns north, following Kokkojoki on higher ground. There is one more lean-to shelter at (15 Kokkolampi. The trail follows the railroad by Alasenjärvi and reaches the Sotkamo border near the 2 Rommakkovaara old-growth forest reserve, 2 km east of the village Kekkola (which is on the Nurmes–Sotkamo road just past the Sotkamo border).

Rommakkovaara-Sotkamo

There is a lean-to shelter 5 km from the reserve along the trail (16 Hoikanlampi (private?), 150 m from the Heitto junction of the Nurmes–Sotkamo road.

The first service on the UKK trail after Heitto/Hoikanlampi is a 17 campfire site close to a road 12.5 km after Hoikanlampi – near another Hoikanlampi. The next lean-to shelter is 12 km farther along the trail (18 Ansalampi; maintained?). After another 3.5 km, close to the road there is another lean-to shelter (19 Rönkkö) and 3 km farther a third shelter (20 Porttivaara kota). There is a series of protected areas, Porttivaara just before the shelter, Lehtovaara just after it and Matovaara 3 km farther on the trail. There are also more shelters: 0.5 km and 2.3 km forward – you arrive at the ski resort Vuokatti. From the kota at the summit of Iso-Pölly, it is 2 km down beside the downhill slopes to the resort itself. The centre of Sotkamo is 7 km to the east. There are shelters also 4.5 and 7 km past Vuokatti: Naapurinvaaran lasikota and Naapurinlouhen kota. The Vuokatti shelters may not be intended for sleeping, and the area may be too busy for your taste. There is also a commercial 21 campsite.

Pintamo-Syöte

Spruces in Syöte National Park: here up north the branches don't extend far from the stem, as they have to carry significant snowloads.

Pintamo is a small village by the lake Pintamonjärvi, 8.5 km from Haapuanoja. There is a camp centre of the Pudasjärvi parish, Kangasjärven eräleirikeskus, adjacent to which the 22 Pintamo lean-to lies. The next shelter, at 23 Kaakkurilampi, is 4.5 km farther. This one is maintained by the municipality, part of the local trail Kannonnousu. A reindeer round-up site is close to the north. You can pass on either side of it, with the forks rejoining at Iso-Syöte.

The western fork leads north to Taimenmutka open wilderness hut and on via Mustarinta lean-to shelter (both maintained by the municipality) to Iso-Syöte.

Choosing the eastern fork, the trail crosses the gorge Portinkuru 2.8 km after Kaakkurinlampi. 7.3 km after Kaakkurilampi there is one more municipal lean-to shelter, at 24 Ylimmäinen Pirinjärvi. 4 km farther you enter Syöte National Park.

You pass another Portinkuru and the trail leads over Pitämävaara. Where the trail crosses Säkkisenoja, there is an old timber slide. The next shelter is 25 Myllyn laavu, by a former mill. There are several ghost stories about it.

You are now close to the Syöte resort. At Kovalampi there is a beach. You could make a detour to the shop in Syötekylä. You climb Pikku-Syöte ("Minor Syöte") and continue to Iso-Syöte, with the main resort, with hotels, cottages, a beach and the national park visitor centre. There is a lean-to shelter at 26 Luppovesi. There is a "nature centre" at the summit. The national park visitor centre is a bit farther, at the parking north of Iso-Syöte.

Syöte-Posio

Syöte National Park has a good trail network and services such as campfire sites, and even some open wilderness huts. Across the border to Posio the trail is probably not maintained and its route as marked on maps may not be ideal. The markings seem to end at the village Kouva.

There are two day huts, Annintupa 1.5 km and Välitupa 5 km from the visitor centre. The first open wilderness hut is 8,5 km from the visitor centre, 27 Toraslampi, a former loggers' cabin's sauna. On the following leg there are lean-tos after 3.5 (Pikku-Jaaskamo?) and 7 km (Peurolampi). Another 7 km forward there is a Rytitupa rental hut (€75/8 pers.) with sauna, at the 3 Rytivaara Crown Forest Croft (unmanned, free entry). 10 km farther you arrive at the village Kouva.

The next open wilderness hut is 4 km to the north-east of Kouva (28 Lomavaara). The last one is (29 Hoikkalampi) a further 7 km northward. The trail passes some distance from the huts, make a detour to visit them. The trail continues to a bridge over Laivajoki north of Laivavaara 5 km farther north and another over Livojoki still another 5 km north-eastward. The Ranua–Posio road is 11 km forward from the bridge (by the small road Lauhkeantie), Posio 10 km farther. There are no more campfire sites after Hoikkalampi, but there should be no problem camping wild by Lauhkeantie, such as between the lakes Lauhkea and Iso-Kurppu 2 km from the Ranua–Posio road (the Naali Lodge is near though, and the area may be used for programmes).

Posio-Karhunkierros

View from Noukavaara, in the northern end of Riisitunturi National Park

There is no official trail through Posio. You may want to take a coach (or hitchhike) to the municipal centre. Riisitunturi National Park is close and there is a trail from the centre through and beyond the park, marked on some maps as the UKK trail although not signposted as such. It should be easy to catch a coach to Ruka if you want to bypass this leg.

A 5-km jogging trail with a 30 lean-to shelter leads from Posio centre to a trail through Riisitunturi National Park. There are lean-to shelters after 3, 12 22 and 27 km and open wilderness huts after 6 km (31 Karitunturin Ahmatupa) and 25 km (32 Riisitunturi) from the junction. Markings end 30 km after the jogging trail, between Noukavaara and Alimmainen Noukavaara, but the UKK trail continues. Lean-to shelters after 5 km (33 Kivikoski shelter) and 9 km (34 Autiomaa shelter, by Rintajärvi, north of Elijärvi). The trail continues to the south-east between the lakes to the Ristiranta village, 7 km forward. You can then follow roads for 9 km to cross the isthmus between Yli-Kitka and Ala-Kitka. When past Kantolahti, at Kivipaise, turn south along a minor road over Riihisuo, where there is a lean-to shelter (35 Riihisuo). After 3.3 km, at Kantojoki, turn south along the thoroughfare for 0.5 km, then continue 1.5 km by a forest road to the kota of (36 Viiousjärvi). The trail leads southward over Valkeaisenvaara and Salmilammenvaara and you end up at Karhunkierros in Ruka 4.5 km after the shelter.

Karhunkierros

Aallokkokoski, close to where you enter Oulanka National Park

The Karhunkierros trail leads from Ruka through Oulanka National Park to Hautajärvi. Here you can lodge in wilderness huts, although they tend to be crowded in season, and practice is first come first served instead of the normal practice of latecomers' rights – most hikers here aren't real wilderness backpackers and are ignorant of such rules.

In Oulanka National Park you should mostly keep to the trails and not camp wild. Camping by a shelter or campfire site is allowed and there are enough of them. Deviating from the trail is forbidden in a few areas. You may pick berries as usual.

Karhunkierros first leads through the Valtavaara-Pyhävaara Nature Reserve, with a cooking shelter, a day hut and a lean-to shelter (37 Suolampi shelter in the 8 km stretch through the reserve. The Valtavaara peak at 482 m is the highest point in Kuusamo. There may be many day trippers from Ruka. The next shelters are Iso-Kumpuvaara 2.5 km and 38 Kumpuvaara 4 km from the reserve, the latter 12 km from Ruka. 16 km from Ruka you reach the 39 Porontimajoki former water mill, now an open wilderness hut, and the adjacent purpose-built open wilderness hut, cooking shelter and lean-to shelter.

For 7 km after the mill, the trail keeps to lowland, with the 40 Puurosuo shelter halfway. Then you reach Oulanka National Park and the Little Karhunkierros joins the trail. There is also a trail to the village 1 Juuma 2.5 km away. You soon reach the steep slopes of Kitkajoki. 8 km from the mill you get to the small 41 Siilastupa open wilderness hut by the Jyrävä waterfalls. In the national park you can sleep indoors if you happen to be early or the huts happen not to be crowded, and there is often a shelter nearby, and at least a place for your tent.

The next leg is 15 km, to 42 Jussinkämppä, then 8 km to 43 Ansakämppä, 7 km to 2 Oulanka Visitor Centre ☏ +358 20-639-6850 and 3 km more to the commercial campsite (44 Oulangan leirintäalue ☏ +358 44-740-0001; also cottages, showers and a kiosk). The next legs are 7 km to 45 Taivalköngäs (with a 9-km connection to the 1 Ristikallio trailhead; wilderness hut also at 46 Ristikallio), 3 km to 47 Savilampi (also with a connection to a trailhead, 1.5 km), and then 14.5 km to the Hautajärvi trail gate and its information point. The 48 Rytiniva shelter is 0.5 km before the Karhunkierros gate and the highway. The village 3 Hautajärvi is to the south; the UKK trail continues across the road 500 m northward.

Oulanka-Salla

The UKK trail continues to Salla and through Salla National Park as a marked trail (Hautajärvi–Hanhikangas/Kelloselkä). The leg to Salla is also known as Topsakantaival. There are shelters also along this leg, including one day hut. The trail continues to the north-east after the park, still marked, with shelters, and described as the UKK trail. Aatsingenvaara just before Hanhikangas has lots of foxholes as a memory of World War II.

4 Hanhikangas is 2 km from the Kelloselkä border crossing. There is a small arms shooting range by the border guard station in Hanhikangas; if you hear fire it is probably not the start of a war. The marked trail makes a last detour to Tuohivaara and gets back to the road.

Hanhikangas-Naruska-Karhutunturi

The leg between Hanhikangas and Karhutunturi is not properly maintained, there may be no markings and the previous route may have become unfit for hiking. It makes a detour to Tuohivaara after Hanhikangas, follows the road to the village 5 Kotala and then forks off to the north-east, more or less following the Naruska road. Feel free to choose your own paths, but mind rivers and reindeer fences. There is a bridge over Naruswkajoki at Siekaköngäs just after the Naruska village. Use it and take the road to Karhutunturi. The UKK trail forks away to a shelter on the slopes (and perhaps to the summit), but returns to the road and continues as marked and maintained.

Naruska-Haukijärvenoja

The Tuntsa river

There is a connecting trail (not necessarily marked) from the village Naruska to where the marked trail continues by the fell 4 Karhutunturi (Naruska–Tuntsa).

The trail leads close to the Joutsentunturi nature reserve and through the large 6 Sorsatunturi nature reserve, the latter with some service, including campfire sites and 49 Takkaselkä reserveable wilderness hut with sauna (just outside the reserve; solar electricity available). Check how to pay (€16.50/person) and get the key (probably easiest at the Salla Visitor Centre).

The trail forks before Tuntsa, the eastern trail leading via Tuntsa and the Saihoselkä nature reserve, while the western trail takes a more direct route. On entering the Tuntsa Wilderness Area they join again.

The trail crosses the border to Savukoski bypassing the Värriö Nature Reserve, which is off limits. The Tuntsa wilderness area has a few campfire sites and two open wilderness huts: 50 Murhahaara and 51 Härkätunturi, the latter also with reserveable part and sauna.

The trail leads via the village 7 Tulppio to 8 Haukijärvenoja, where the UKK trail ends and the Urho Kekkonen National Park starts, with a hiking trail along the Nuortti river

Stay safe

Know your limits. You will often be far from people, there may be gaps in mobile phone coverage, the terrain may be difficult, and in the north cold weather might be possible, at least in shoulder season.

Respect

The facilities, such as trails, shelters and wilderness huts, are maintained as a service to the public. Do your part as well as you can: leave the place at least as tidy as you found it, chop and carry in new firewood from the woodshed, and don't use the last dry sticks. Don't appropriate the facilities, but tighten up and welcome others – latecomers should never be let down, leave yourself if needed – and put up your tent at half a stone throw from the fire ring to show it is not occupied.

Use firewood sparingly where provided, and don't make open fire during wildfire warnings (announced in most weather forecasts). If a campfire site lacks firewood, you might be able to use branches from the ground, but consider what wood you can take without degrading the experience of later hikers or upset the landowner.

Go next

• The 47-km Nuortti trail in Urho Kekkonen National Park
• Through Urho Kekkonen National Park along unmarked trails, with services such as wilderness huts. Kiilopää, Kakslauttanen and Saariselkä are some 100 km away.
• Nordkalottleden, an 800-km trail beyond the Arctic Circle.