Vilhelmina

Vilhelmina (Southern Sami: Vualtjere) is a municipality in Västerbotten County, in Swedish Lapland, with large forests and mires in the east, and fell birch forests, fell heath and alpine fells in the west.

Understand

Kyrkstaden

Volgsjön, by the centre

Vilhelmina is large and sparsely populated, with half of the 6,000 inhabitants living in the namesake parish village (founded 1840). The area is 8,700 km² (3,400 sq mi). There is some agriculture in the east, but the forests and the fells have traditionally been the main sources of income (now services, including tourism, dominate). There is reindeer husbandry and some small-scale industry.

In the 17th or 18th century settling in the northern wilderness was encouraged, as taxes from the Saami were limited. Taxation of farms was easier, and the Crown hoped for mining, which required workforce not available in the wilderness. Those settling at a farm would get land for free and some other benefits. Both Swedes and Saami chose to build farms. Also in the 17th century, large-scale reindeer husbandry was introduced, which meant changes in the lifestyle for those involved. Many Saami continued to mostly live from fishing and hunting.

Part of Vilhelmina centre is the "church town" from the 19th century, where people from the surrounding region overnighted at visits to the church, often combined with trade and other activities, so stays were of several days. In the late 19th century, staying in the church village for longer times became permitted and by time most became permanent dwellings. At first, services here (by the lake Volgsjö) was mostly for Forest Saami who lived around the lake, but later on also for settlers, who came to church by the rivers or by trails through forests and over fells.

There is another church town in Fatmomakke (Saami: Faepmie), where a church was built in the 18th century for the Fell Saami, but in the 19th century many settlers arrived and the church site became an important place for trade between the groups.

There is a ski resort at Kittelfjäll and tourist businesses also in other villages, in addition to those in the centre.

• 1 Visit Vilhelmina, Storgatan 9a (in Kyrkstan), ☏ +46 940 398-86, turist@vilhelmina.se. Tourist office (updated Mar 2024)

Get in

• 1 Vilhelmina Airport (VHM  ^IATA). Amapola Flyg from Lycksele and Stockholm–Arlanda. The airport is some 10 km from the centre, 4 km from E45. (updated Jan 2020)

Vilhelmina is on the railway Inlandsbanan and on the European road E45. National road 90 comes in from Härnösand on the coast, joining E45 20 km south of the centre.

There are minor roads from Norway:

• Roads 73, 804 and 7346 for a 110-km drive to Kittelfjäll, from Trofors on E6 (in Helgeland, some 50 km south from Mosjöen) via Aarborte/Hattfjelldal and Skardmodal
• Roads 773 and 7024 for a 110-km drive to Saxnäs, from Brekkvasselv (on E6 in northern Trøndelag, some 30 km south from the Helgeland border) via Røyrvik and Hudningsdal to Stora Blåsjön 40 km away in Strömsund, Sweden, then turn east and north for some 70 km more in the fells

If you want to stay on bigger roads from Norway, then take road 74 from Bjørgan on E6 (in Tröndelag, east of Namsos, some 60 km north-east from Steinkjer) to Strömsund, then E45 via Dorotea. Or take E12 (Blue Highway) from Mo i Rana to Storuman, then E45 southward.

For the wilderness backpacker, Lapplandsleden leads from Hemavan at Kungsleden's southern end, through western Vilhelmina passing by Klimpfjäll, to Borgarfjäll in Dorotea. There are a few cabins on the route, but a tent is needed.

Get around

While the centre is quite compact, expect driving long distances for points of interest in other villages. Public transport is sparse.

See

• 1 Vilhelmina Museum, Museigatan 2 (in Kyrkstaden), ☏ +46 940 398-86 (Visit Vilhelmina), turist@vilhelmina.se. By agreement. Local museum, mainly on the Saami and the settlers of the times of subsistence economy. Also a rich grave finding from the 8th century and a ski from the 4th century. 
• 2 Fatmomakke (Faepmie) (drive 90 km from Vilmelmina to Saxnäs, continue 18.5 km along Vildmarksvägen, turn right at the signage for 6-km along a gravel road, then a few hundred metres of footpath). Church town with Saami gåeties (goahtis) as well as settlers' timbered dwellings. Many are protected, most privately owned. Church services thrice a year: originally held when the Saami had their spring and autumn breaks between winter and summer pastures, later with a third in July after the hay harvest, suitable for the settlers. 
• Vilhelmina Saami association (Vualtjeren saemien siebrie), styrelse@vuass.se. Museum and cultural centre. Check what's going on and whether you can just drop in. 

Do

Kittelfjäll

Kittelfjäll ski resort

There is a ski resort 80 km north-west of the centre, by the 1,225-m 1 Kittelfjäll (Saami: Giebne), in the valley of Vojmån. The resort is known for its off-piste areas. Heli-skiing available. The Marsfjällen nature reserve of 860 km² (330 sq mi) is adjacent, with the highest peak Marsfjället (Southern Saami: Maaresvaerie) 1,589 m (5,213 ft) 18 km south-west from the resort.

Sleep

• STF Vilhelmina Kyrkstad, Storgatan 9A (Kyrkstaden), ☏ +46 940 398-86. Check-in: 15:00 (for weekends, call in advance), check-out: 11:00. STF hostel in old buildings of the "church town". The reception is in the tourist office nearby. Sauna, self-service kitchen, Wi-Fi, pets allowed. (updated Mar 2024)

Go next

Routes through Vilhelmina

Gällivare ← Storuman ←

N  S

→ Dorotea → Östersund