Xicotepec

Xicotepec, officially known as Xicotepec de Juarez, is a small town in the mountains of western Puebla known for its historical landmarks and the natural beauty of its mountain forests and rivers. It is the heart of one of Mexico's premier coffee growing regions and a scenic small town that is one of Mexico's Pueblos Magicos.

In the main square of Xicotepec

Understand

History

Xicotepec, like most places in Mexico, has a long history with various Mesoamerican societies influencing its growth and culture. It was first settled around 300 B.C. by the Otomi people. In the 5th century A.D., Totonoc people moved into the area. In 1120 it was conquered by the Toltec, in 1325 by the Acolhua, and in 1432 by the Aztec, who forced the town to pay tribute to Texcoco. In 1533, the Spanish moved in with Augustinian friars to convert the population. They built the first churches in town and declared San Juan Bautista (St. John the Baptist) to be the town's patron saint.

The town's 15 minutes of fame was actually 3 days in 1920, when, following the Mexican Revolution, President Venustiano Carranzo was assassinated in a nearby town and his body was taken to Xicotepec. During those 3 days, the official capital of Mexico was this small town. The story is told in exhibits at the Casa Carranza.

Geography

Rio San Marcos

Xicotepec is a mountainous town, lying within an area known as the Sierra Norte. The San Marcos River lies a few kilometers north of the town while the Necaxa River lies a few kilometers to the south. Both rivers are quite scenic and offer recreational opportunities for paddlers as well as some popular waterfalls. Springs within the town (called los Tezontles) feed several small streams. Several more streams are found in the hills and mountains surrounding the town and flowing into one of the two nearby rivers.

Climate

Xicotepec gets quite a bit of rain with rainfalls occurring regularly throughout the year, but the heaviest rains fall between June and October. Conditions change quickly in Xicotepec, with showers appearing and disappearing in an instant.

Get in

By bus

From Mexico City, Futura buses leave from Indios Verdes to Xicotepec and cost about M$300 for the 3-1/2 hour ride. They stop in Tulancingo and go onward to Xicotepec. Conexiones also has buses going to Xicotepec leaving from Indios Verdes, but you have to change buses in Tulancingo. The Conexiones buses are about the same price. Buses between Indios Verdes and Tulancingo are frequent, departing hourly throughout the day.

From Puebla, it's a bit more complicated. Autotransportes San Pedro Santa Clara buses go to Huachinango twice daily (M$200). From Huachinango you can take an ODT Ómnibus de Tizayuca bus to Xicotepec. The second-class buses run hourly and cost about M$50.

There is no central bus station in Xicotepec. Companies operate their own facilities.

• 1 Terminal Autobuses Estrella Blanca, MEX 130 (Av. Benito Juarez), Las Flores. Small bus station for Futura and Conexiones buses to/from Mexico City and Tulancingo. 
• 2 Terminal Autobuses ATAH, MEX 130 (Av. Benito Juarez) No.126, Las Flores. Regional buses to Hidalgo, Tlaxcala and Puebla. 

By car

Xicotepec is about 3 hours by car from either Mexico City or Puebla. From Mexico City, use federal highway MEX 130 (Carr. Piramides-Tulancingo). From Puebla, use federal highway MEX 119 via Santa Ana.

See

Mural in the Museo Casa Carranza

Monument to the Virgin of Guadalupe

• 1 Museo Casa Carranza, Plaza de la Constitución S/N, Col Centro, ☏ +52 764-764-2419. 10:00 - 18:00 (Tu-Su), closed M. This historical museum is a must for those interested in the Mexican Revolution and its after-effects. Following the Revolution, power struggles seemed to never end. President Venustiano Carranza was assassinated in the nearby town of Tlaxcalantongo and his body taken to Xicotepec. For three tense days he lay in this house, where he was autopsied and political machinations carried out. The museum's exhibits tell the story of Carranza's life, political struggles, the Mexican Revolution and its aftermath. Free. 

• 2 Zocalo. Xicotepec's main square takes up about 2 square city blocks and is filled with more flowers than just about any town zocalo you've ever seen. There's also some impressive topiary and lots of park benches for sitting, sipping coffee from the sidewalk vendors, and doing serious people watching, especially Sunday when all the families are out walking and browsing through the tianguis (since Sunday is also market day in Xicotepec.) This is where you'll find the big colorful letters spelling out the town's name. A popular selfie spot. 

• 3 Cruz Celestial (Heavenly Cross), Camino Rural Nactanca S/N. 06:00 - 18:00. Scenic overlook with a cross at the top of a hill. Popular place for photographers and selfie-takers. Great place to get some exercise since it's a bit of a hike from the main road along a dirt road, then you climb 746 steps to get to the cross. Best in the morning before temperatures get too hot. Bring water and snacks, though vendors are often in the parking lot. Free. 

• 4 Monument to the Virgen of Guadalupe, Colonia Tabacal (north side of town, just off Blvd. Benito Juarez (MEX 130)). 24 hours. Enormous statue of the Virgin Mary. Great photo ops, plus access to the trails up to the Heavenly Cross. Parking is available here and vendors sell food and drink. Free. (updated Aug 2023)
• 5 Parroquia San Juan Bautista, Iturbide 4, Col Centro. 05:00 - 22:00. The parish has a history dating back to its founding in 1571 by the Augustinian friars, but the church itself is shockingly modern and austere. In 1943, the parish priest had the original church demolished because it was getting run down and difficult to maintain. The new church lacks any of the character of colonial-era churches and has far fewer icons, paintings or sculptures than typical Mexican churches. It was designed in a gothic style and was patterned after the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris (though obviously on a much smaller scale). (updated Aug 2023)
• 6 Xochipila, Porfirio Díaz 118, Col Centro. Mystical place that was a ceremonial center in the pre-Hispanic era (probably built around the 12th century) and that is still used by indigenous shamans for purification rituals around June 23 each year. The place was used to worship Xochipilli (god of the sun, music, or flowers, depending on which pre-Hispanic culture you believe). Supposedly, the site was preserved through the colonial era due to locals convincing the Augustinians that they were worshiping the fish symbol that was part of the Catholic playbook, and certainly not any pre-Hispanic symbols, like the quetzal that actually was the symbol locals bowed down to. The site is maintained as an urban park by the State of Puebla. Free. (updated Aug 2023)

Buy

• 1 Amador Mercado Municipal, Plaza la Constitucion, Centro. 08:00 - 19:00 daily. Main marketplace for the town. Vendors sell fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, and dairy products. Many stands sell the most authentic regional cuisine. Lots of artesanias and household products as well. (updated Aug 2023)
• Tianguis, Plaza la Independencia. Sunday is market day in Xicotepec. (updated Aug 2023)

Eat

• 1 La Molienda, MEX 130, Hidalgo (south of town). 08:00 - 18:00. Quirky place with tons of character. The building looks like a windmill and the dining room is in and around an odd local museum of objects from the early 20th century as well as collections of plants, bugs, and geology. The food is almost secondary to the spectacle. Menu is traditional Mexican with sopas, enchiladas, and carnes asadas. M$250. (updated Aug 2023)
• 2 La Gloria del Mar, Lindoro Hernández 104, Col Chiveria, ☏ +52 764 110 9464. 07:30 - 19:00 daily. Seafood restaurant specializing in fresh fish dishes. (updated Aug 2023)

Drink

• 1 Cafe Aristoteles, Corregidora 127, Col 5 de Mayo, ☏ +52 764 764 1497. 15:30 - 22:00 Tu-Su, (closed Mon). Popular spot for coffee drinks of all sorts plus desserts, pastries, and light food. The apple pie and blackberry crepes are recommended. M$150. (updated Aug 2023)
• 2 Cafe Fabrica Vieja, Av Juarez 130, Col Centro, ☏ +52 764 764 4109. 08:00 - 18:00 M-Sa, (closed Su). Producers of organic coffee and related food products. Serves capuccino, espresso and cafe americano. Also sells freshly roasted coffee beans or ground coffee to go. (updated Aug 2023)

Sleep

• 1 Hotel San Carlos Plaza, Hidalgo 100, Centro, ☏ +52 764 764 1291. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Traditional hotel with rooms set around a central courtyard. Rooms are spacious, clean, and comfortable. Downtown location with off-street parking and on-site restaurant. M$1000. (updated Aug 2023)
• 2 Bugambilias, Guerrero 130, ☏ +52 764 764 3681. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Budget hotel close to the bus stations. Basic rooms are clean with TV and WiFi. (updated Aug 2023)
• 3 Villa de Cortez, Miguel Negrete 105, Col Centro, ☏ +52 764 764 1300. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate hotel with clean, comfortable rooms. On-site restaurant on the 6th floor has good views of the town and tasty traditional Mexican cooking. M$950. (updated Aug 2023)
• 4 El Cafetelero, Blvrd. Benito Juarez 120, ☏ +52 764 764 9207. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate hotel with spacious comfortable rooms with balconies offering good views. The on-site restaurant is highly regarded, particularly for their coffee. Off-street parking next to the highway. M$800. (updated Aug 2023)

Go next

• Huachinango
• Tulancingo
• Poza Rica