Huachinango

Mural commemorating the Feria de Santo Entierro in Huachinango

Huachinango is a scenic small city in the mountainous Sierra Norte region of northern Puebla, Mexico. The city is known for its colonial central core and its natural beauty with mountains, forests, rivers, and waterfalls. It is one of Mexico's Pueblos Mágicos.

Understand

Huachinango is a mid-size city of more than 50,000 people. When all the villages of the surrounding areas are included, the figure rises to almost 100,000. The city itself retains much of its charm, with colonial era buildings in the town center, cobblestone streets, wrought iron details on balconies and window frames, and an attractive zocalo.

History

Huachinango was first settled on the banks of the Texcapa River between 1116 and 1120 by Chichimecas under the leadership of Nopaltzin. The settlement was small and grew slowly. It was conquered in the mid 15th century by the Aztecs and forced to pay tribute to Texcoco. The Spanish arrived in town in 1527, with the Augustinian missionaries following in 1543. There are no archaeological sites in or near Huachinango and the only visible remnants of pre-Hispanic history are four mounds in the El Cerrito neighborhood.

Huachinango grew steadily in the colonial era and prospered in the 19th century when it was a stop along a busy trade route between Mexico City and ports on the Gulf of Mexico.

Get in

By bus

From Mexico City (Autobuses del Norte), buses leave hourly for the 2-1/2 hour trip to Huachinango. Autotransportes San Pedro Santa Clara buses also depart Mexico City from Indios Verdes, tickets cost M$120. From Puebla's CAPU terminal, Futura and ADO operate several buses per day to Huachinango.

• 1 Central de Autobuses Huachinango (Bus station), Libramiento México - Tuxpan, KM 192. Small but spacious and clean bus terminal operated by Omnibus de Mexico. Minimal services (limited food and drink). You can catch frequent buses that are headed to Mexico City (Autobuses del Norte) and much less frequently to Puebla or cities to the north. 

Get around

The historic Centro area is compact and enjoyable to walk, with cobblestone streets and a number of staircases to handle its hilly terrain. Taxis are located at a sitio next to the zocalo (town square), also known as Plaza de la Constitucion, and you'll want to use them to get to the waterfalls or nearby lakes.

See

Streets in the historic town center

• 1 Plaza de la Constitucion, Portal de Zaragoza. The zocalo (main city square) is a hectically peaceful oasis in the town's center, with fountains, topiary, shade tree, park benches, and vendors setting up food stands (especially on Sundays when local families flock to the city center). Arched portals on adjacent buildings house shops and sidewalk cafes. 
• 2 Sanctuary de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo en su Santo Entierro. 06:00 - 20:00. 16th century church and monastery built by the Augustinians, the church is dedicated to the town's patron saint. Famous for its painting of Jesus Christ lying buried in a cave after the crucifiction. The painting is said to have healing powers and many miracles are attributed to it. The church itself is very unusual with bare stone walls and open gabled ceilings in the main nave, though side chapels are more elaborately decorated with spectacular ceiling murals. 
• 3 Church of Santa María la Asunción (Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción), Guillermo 1, Centro, ☏ +52 776 762 0090. 06:00 - 20:00. Modern church that preserves some elements of the original colonial era structure. One of the largest domes in Latin America. The interior is decorated with biblical scenes that reflect indigenous Mexican interpretations. 
• 4 Huachinango Scenic Park (and Museum of Indigenous Attire of the Sierra Norte), Centro. 07:00 - 22:00. Urban park with open walkways, paved paths. Home of an interesting small museum about the clothing made and worn by indigenous groups in northern Puebla. 
• 5 Museo Etnologico Huasteco (Huastec Museum), Catalina, ☏ +52 222 352 9121. 10:00 - 16:00 (closed M,Tu). Nature retreat and cultural exhibits about the Huastec people, who inhabited the northern Gulf Coast region of Mexico. M$20. (updated Aug 2023)

Do

Presa Necaxa

• Presa Necaxa, MEX 130 and MEX 132D. Large reservoir with boating and fishing. Many lakeside restaurants on its shores. About 4 km north of town. 
• Presa de Tenango de las Flores. Another large reservoir and dam, this one known for being featured in the 1957 movie Tizoc, which won a Golden Globe and was the last film starring Pedro Infante. Though the film's story allegedly took place in Oaxaca, it was filmed in Huachinango. If you're a film buff, you can hire a local to show you the house, tree, and other places from movie scenes. 
• 6 Cascadas la Morena, MEX 130 (Carr. Federal Mexico-Tuxp), KM 91. Protected natural area with 7 waterfalls and well-marked hiking trails (about 5km in length). Good spot for observing nature and bird watching. Lots of scenic spots including a swaying suspension bridge and a place where you can go behind one of the falls. Trails are easy to moderate. Free parking and food is available for sale. 

Festivals

Costumed Huehue during Carnaval

• Carnaval - celebrated the week before lent (ending on "Fat Tuesday", the day before Ash Wednesday), carnaval is a period of food, drink, music and dance. In Huachinango it is celebrated by traditional huehues, costumed characters representing old men (though the modern costumes don't look very old), dancing through the streets (though the traditional violin musical accompaniment has given way to modern banda music). Times change, but the festival is still a raucuous celebration before sobering up for Lent.

• Feria de Flores - this is a commercial flower show to market the town's biggest agricultural products (especially azaleas). Begins the first Sunday in Lent and runs for 9 days. A highlight is the crowning of the Queen of Flowers. Since 1938, Feria de Flores has been combined with and runs concurrently with Feria de Santo Entierro.

• Feria de Santo Entierro - this is a religious and cultural festival that honors the town's patron saint. A highlight is a recreation of the story behind the town's adoption of the saint. The story is that at some point in 17th century, a wagon driver arrived at the Augustinian mission with a large crate. The crate was unloaded and the driver and his horses provided a place to rest for the night. The next morning, the monks discovered that the driver and his horses had disappeared without a word. They left the crate alone for a few weeks, assuming the driver would return. When he never did, they opened the crate to discover the image of Jesus Christ in his burial chamber. The image was displayed in the church, which eventually changed its name to Santo Entierro. Several miracles have been ascribed to the image, which itself, never seems to age. The Feria has been celebrated annually since 1923 and includes traditional dances, cock fights, charreadas, parades of floats and masked characters, and processions carrying the image of the Lord of the Holy Burial.

Eat

• 1 Carboncito Norteno, Camino a Catalina, El Potro, ☏ +52 776 767 8235. 10:00 - 20:00 (closed Tu). Casual restaurant specializing in grilled meats (steaks, ribs, carne asada, arrachera) and seafood (the grilled octopus is very popular). (updated Aug 2023)
• 2 Restaurante del Lago, Carretera México-Tuxpan KM 199 (2 km north of Huachinango, north side of the lake), ☏ +527767625736, restellago2016@gmail.com. 08:00 - 18:00 daily. Outdoor patio dining with views of Lake Necaxa. Traditional Mexican food, known for their enchiladas. M$300. (updated Aug 2023)

Sleep

• 1 Hotel Villa de Cortez, Miguel Hidalgo 3, ☏ +52 776 762 6230. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Colonial style traditional hotel in the heart of downtown. Rooms are a bit small, but clean. Beds are hard. Offers off-street parking and has an on-site restaurant with buffet breakfast. (updated Aug 2023)
• 2 Meson del Portal, Portal del Hidalgo, Centro, ☏ +52 776 762 1179. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate traditional style hotel in the historic city center. Comfortable rooms with balcony views. On-site restaurant serves buffet style meals. (updated Aug 2023)
• 3 La Casona, Miguel Hidalgo 1, ☏ +52 776 762 2100. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Traditional colonial style hotel with modern updates in the rooms, which are clean and comfortable. Rooms have no A/C and can get warm on summer days. M$600. (updated Aug 2023)
• 4 Hotel Yekkan, MEX 130, El Paraiso, ☏ +52 776 109 4353. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 13:00. Budget hotel with small rooms that are clean and comfortable. Off-street parking available. Swimming pool. Oxxo store next door. M$400. (updated Aug 2023)
• 5 Hotel Villa Real, Distrito de Catalina 91, ☏ +52 776 762 2233. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Quiet hotel, off the beaten path. Rooms are spacious, clean, and comfortable. Exterior is covered in vines giving it a natural feeling. (updated Aug 2023)

Go next

• Xicotepec
• Pahuatlán