Pahuatlán

Pahuatlán (also known as Pahuatlan del Valle) is a quaint village in the mountains of northwest Puebla. Sometimes described as part of the Huasteca region, the town is actually home to a large Otomi and Nahua population. It has a picturesque colonial center and is known for a number of handcrafts including weaving, pottery, and the artisans making amate paper in the nearby village of San Pablito. The town has been designated as one of Mexico's Pueblos Mágicos.

Church of Santiago Apóstol

Understand

This part of Puebla is very rural with few large towns. Pahuatlán is the largest town in the municipality (county) with a population just over 3,500 in 2010. The second largest town is San Pablito with a population of almost 3,200. San Pablito is an interesting village that's worth a visit if you are interested in indigenous artesanias because it is the best source for a unique pre-Hispanic type of paper called amate that is made from tree bark. Three artisans have workshops in San Pablito and welcome visitors to learn about their traditional craft and watch it being made. (Amate may also be sold in local artesania shops or the Sunday tianguis.) Other nearby villages include Xolotla and Cuauneutla (both of which grow a lot of coffee).

Local culture in Pahuatlan includes traditional huapango music. The town claims to have originated the Danza de los Voladores, which is performed during town festivals. A pole for voladores is in the town's zocalo.

Get in

From Mexico City, it is about a 2-hour bus ride to Xicotepec (Futura buses depart from Indios Verdes). Xicotepec is the nearest bus station to Pahuatlán. From there, it is a 50-km taxi ride on twisty (but scenic) mountain roads to Pahuatlán.

Get around

The town itself is very compact and enjoyable to walk. You'll want to use taxis to reach some of the more remote sites.

See

• 1 Zocalo. Enjoyable town square with fountains, walkways, towering palm trees, and a large kiosk (bandstand). Many vendors out on weekends. Next to the town hall (presidencial municipal). Photos of the town's colorful letters are taken here. 

• 2 Jardin Botanico Santillan, 28 de Enero, ☏ +52 776 105 0571. Sa Su 10:00 - 17:00 (closed weekdays). Small private botanical garden with a good collection of endemic local species as well as fruit orchards that are used to produce wines and liquers (tastings and bottles available for sale). 

• Cascada Velo de Novia (Bridal Veil Falls) on the Río Acalpa

Do

• Carnaval - for eight days leading up to Ash Wednesday the town celebrates carnaval with music, dance, food and drink. The highlight are the Huehues of Pahuatlán, costumed characters wearing carved wood masks.
• Semana Santa - Holy week (the week before Easter) is the town's biggest celebration, featuring music, dance, and the Festival Cultural de la Sierra.
• 1 Puente Colgante Miguel Hidalgo. Natural area with well marked trails and a swinging wood suspension bridge. Walk to the Bridal Veil falls and enjoy the great outdoors. (updated Jul 2023)

Buy

• Tianguis - Sunday is the weekly tianguis, held in the main plaza (zocalo). This is a good place to find local artesanias, especially rebozos, pottery and fresh cut flowers.

Eat

There are few restaurants in Pahuatlan, though most hotels serve at least breakfast and may have an on-site restaurant serving other meals. While there are few restaurants, there are quite a number of panaderias, bakeries selling fresh baked goods and typically also serving coffee and sometimes other food. There are also more cantinas than restaurants in this town and some of the cantinas serve light meals.

• 1 Cocina Tlayolotl, José Luis Lechuga, Centro, ☏ +52 776 112 5692. daily 07:30 - 21:00. Regional cuisine, enchiladas are recommended. Good coffee in the morning, spicy micheladas in the evening. (updated Sep 2023)

• 2 Panaderia Santa Cruz, Calle Santa Cruz, ☏ +52 776 752 0622. F-W 10:00 - 20:00, closed Th. Traditional bakery with wood-burning oven. Rolls, sweetbreads, cakes, baguettes. (updated Sep 2023)

Sleep

• 1 Hotel San Carlos, 2 de Abril 26, ☏ +52 776 752 0570. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Cozy traditional hotel set around a beautiful courtyard with large swimming pool, off-street parking, and on-site restaurant. Rooms are clean, small, but adequately furnished. (updated Jul 2023)
• 2 Cabañas el Mirador, El Mirador, ☏ +52 554 600 5879. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Beautiful modern cabins with kitchens and great views. (updated Jul 2023)
• 3 Hotel Jardin, A. Tellez Vaquier 3, Centro, ☏ +52 776 752 0555. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate hotel with small rooms, basic furnishings. Cash only. M$500. (updated Jul 2023)

Connect

This is a remote, mountainous, rural area. Cell phone reception is often spotty and will likely be 3G (5G not available here). Expect your apps to lose connectivity frequently.

Go next

• Huachinango
• Xicotepec
• Tulancingo
• Tuxpan