Yokosuka
Yokosuka (横須賀) is a major city in Kanagawa prefecture, Japan. Yokosuka city is on the coast and near to sea. The population is about 420,000 in Yokosuka city. Because of the naval base, many Americans are among its population.
Understand
editYokosuka has long played a part in Japan's naval history. Commodore Matthew Perry's landing in the area in the 1850s initiated the country's modernization, and today it is the site of a major naval facility used by the United States and Japanese forces. During World War II, it was spared the heavy bombing which was the fate of many other Japanese cities, as the US military had already chosen it as a post-war base location.
The city's famous foods are Kaigun (Navy) curry and a radish called Miura daikon. Yokosuka is also the home city of former Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi.
Tourist information sites
edit- The city and local tourist associations has a joint Japanese-only guide site.
- The city has official info pages in English on Guidoor.
- Kurihama Area tourist association has a separate Japanese-only guide site.
Get in
editBy plane
editFrom Narita Airport, the fastest and most expensive way to reach Yokosuka is to take the Narita Express to Shinagawa, and then take the Keikyu Line to the centrally-located Yokosuka-Chuo station. (2 hours; ¥3630 [¥2990 JR fare + ¥640 Keikyu fare]). With the Japan Rail Pass this trip costs only ¥360 for the Keikyu line if you change in Yokohama.
Regular JR commuter trains depart Narita Airport once per hour: some trains offer one-seat rides to JR Yokosuka station, or else change at wherever the train terminates to the next train bound for Yokosuka or Kurihama (About 2 3/4 hours, ¥2590). These trains offer a ¥980 Green Car seating upgrade; Green cars feature more comfortable seats and a drink and snack service.
A cheaper ride from Narita to Yokosuka is to take the Narita Sky Access train which runs into the subway. When you reach Sengakuji, change to a Keikyu Limited Express train for Yokosuka-Chuo (2½ hours, ¥1900).
From Haneda Airport, take any Keikyu Line local (普通) or express (急行) train and change at Keikyu-Kamata station to a limited express (特急/快特) towards Yokohama. The trip to Yokosuka-Chuo takes 50-60 minutes and costs ¥810.
By train
editThe limited express Keikyu trains make the run to Yokosuka-Chuo (横須賀中央) in 50-60 minutes from Shinagawa station (¥640). Many trains from the Toei Asakusa subway line continue on to the Keikyu Line. The ride takes 1 hr 15 min from Nihombashi (日本橋) station (¥930).
The slower JR Yokosuka Line, on the lower level of Tokyo Station, takes you to JR Yokosuka Station (75 minutes; ¥1050) which is about 2½ kilometers northwest of the more centrally-located Yokosuka-Chuo Keikyu station. If you wish to use JR, be sure to take any train bound for Yokosuka or Kurihama (and note that the front 4 cars of the train are removed at Zushi when Yokosuka-bound, so ask if you are not sure where to sit).
Local buses connect Yokosuka-Chuo and JR Yokosuka stations on a frequent basis (¥170).
By boat
edit- Kurihama Port (久里浜港, Kurihamako) by boat from Kanayako (金谷港) and Izu Islands, Ogasawara Islands (only low season).
Get around
editBy bus
editBuses run often and until about 23:30; they are very safe, clean and modern; many bus routes go either to and/or from train stations to connect the transportation network. They cost ¥170-300 on average.
At train stations, there will be a master bus map in front of bus stops showing the different routes with bus numbers. This bus number will only stop at one of several bus stops in front of the station or near the station. Each stop has a large sign that lists all the buses and schedules for that stop.
Along the road, bus stops are usually spaced out several blocks apart and are denoted by a white round sign or 4-sided square sign, sometimes lit. Bus drivers are very conscientious to look and stop for passengers waiting. The bus stops will be announced along the route and show on an electronic display. Passengers push the "stop" button located at every seat to indicate their stop.
Get on at the door halfway down the bus and get off at the front door. It's easiest to pay with Pasmo/Suica contactless smart cards, but if using cash, take the small-white ticket from the dispenser as you enter, paying the amount displayed on the price screen which corresponds to the number on your ticket. Place the white ticket and change in the same slot on top of machine next to driver). Buses will make change for ¥1000 notes and ¥100 coins. Bus drivers will often help you make the change.
By taxi
editTaxis are plentiful and very clean. ¥710 for the first two kilometers (and additional ¥300 charge for telephone pick-up requests). There is also a higher charge for nighttime taxi rides. There are taxi stands at all train stations and other strategic area. Taxis with red LED lit sign on dash are available and can be flagged (though may not stop if near a taxi stand). Taxis with yellow placard on front grill have permit to enter base and many drivers at JR station will ask foreigners (if going to) "base-u?" to ensure a permitted cab is used. Sample costs for longer trips: to Kurihama or Uraga about ¥4,000.
See
edit
- Travelers won't be able to see much of Yokosuka Naval Base, headquarters of the U.S. Navy's Seventh Fleet, but sailors based there are a common sight around the city, and certainly add to its atmosphere. Once a year, the base hosts a "Friendship Day", allowing Japanese nationals to tour the base. Also, one can go onto the naval base when an event takes place, such as a fireworks display or Halloween party.
- Battleship Mikasa (戦艦三笠). She was Admiral Togo's flagship in the Russo-Japanese war (1904-1905), and in the Battle of Tsushima it led to the annihilation of the Russian forces. English signage is present, but English-speaking staff is hit or miss. The surrounding Mikasa park is free, and features a recurring fountain show. \600.
- Perry Memorial Hall and Monument (ペリー記念館、上陸記念碑). The monument marks the place where U.S. Navy Commodore Matthew C. Perry landed from his squadron of "black ships", forcing the Tokugawa Shogunate to sign a treaty of peace and friendship with the United States, thus opening the country to the world after 250 years of isolation. The park is in Kurihama (久里浜), a few stops away by either the Keikyu or JR train line.
- Kurihama Hana-no-Kuni (くりはま花の国). This "flower country" park is renowned for its 1 million blooming poppies from Mid-May to Mid-June, and beautiful cosmos flowers from September-mid October. It also has a nice herb garden and children's play area with a large Godzilla slide.
- The Verny park (ヴェルニー公園) (near Shioiri station). Elegant seaside park with a lot of roses and fountains.
- Yokosuka Research Park. 3-4 Hikari-no-Oka (shuttle bus from Keikyu's YRP Nobi station). Not exactly a tourist attraction, this vast research complex is devoted to telecommunications in all shapes and sizes. You won't be able to see much if you show up unannounced, but symposia and meetings are held here regularly and usually include guided tours with companies showing off their latest and greatest.
- Sarushima island (猿島) (take ferry from Mikasa Park). Old fortress and nature preserve in Tokyo Bay. This is a private island and the only natural island in Tokyo Bay. Locals frequent it for hiking and it is a popular sun-bathing and barbecue in the summer. The island closes every evening, so make sure you don't miss the last ferry off (17:00 in Mar to Oct, 16:00 in Nov to Feb) or you will be marooned there alone overnight. There is no night staff.
- Downtown's "Blue Street" (中央大通り chuo o-dori) (between the Navy base and Yokosuka-Chuo station). Yokosuka's main street. See sculptures honoring Yokosuka as one of the country's gateways to jazz music as well as local street musicians and dancers.
- Dobuita Street (ドブ板通り) (near Shioiri station). There are many kinds of shops visited by a lot of foreigners. Especially famous is Yokosuka jacket (called Sukajan - "Yokosuka jumper"). Fans of the Dreamcast game "Shenmue" will notice a lot of similarities between this place and 1986 Dobuita as depicted in the game. There’s an arcade but no hot dog truck.
- Tsukayama Park (塚山公園, tsukayama-kōen ; Anjinzuka Park) (1 mile from Anjinzuka Station or Hemi Station on the Keikyu Line.). The scenic hilltop park where William Adams (called in Japanese Miura anjin and the inspiration for the Richard Chamberlain character in Shogun) and wife Oyuki are buried. The park's 10,000 cherry trees make this the best blossom viewing in April in Yokosuka. Locals find it a nice place to walk dogs! Park also has a scenic overlooking north.
- Chōgan-ji temple (長願寺), 237-0072 (3 minutes on foot from Anjinzukastation.). A very historic temple. Not so large, but has a unique atmosphere. This temple holds a variety of events, including the festival that celebrates flowering is called Hanamaturi, and learning sessions about the religion. Everyone can take part in these events, but you need to contact the temple beforehand.
Do
edit- 1 Yokosuka Stadium (10 minute walk from Oppama Station on the Keikyu line). in the summer or fall. The home field of the farm team of Yokohama DeNA Baystars (baseball). ¥1200 the ticket.
- Tanoura Pool (田の浦公園水泳プール). A small place. Some children swimming in the summer. Charge is very reasonable. It's recommend place when hot summer.
- 2 Yokosuka Museum of Art (横須賀美術館), ☏ +81 46 845 1211. 10:00-18:00. Glass-clad museum with views over Tokyo Bay, housing modern & contemporary paintings & sculpture. ¥380.
Buy
edit- Saikaya Shopping Plaza (さいか屋), 1-13 Otaki-cho. Traditional department store.
- Coaska Bayside Stores (コースカ ベイサイド ストアーズ) (between the Navy base and the Yokosuka JR station). Large 6-storey shopping mall, opened in 2020.
- Mikasa Shopping Plaza (三笠ビル商店街) (on "Blue Street" between the Navy base and Yokosuka-Chuo station).
- More's City (モアーズシティ) (Immediately adjacent to Yokosuka-Chuo station). Two floors of restaurants with a great view of the harbor. The basement floor has a food hall and small supermarket. There are many clothing stores and small shops. There is also an amusement arcade.
Eat
editYokosuka claims to be the place of origin of the quintessentially Japanese dish curry rice, and it seems everywhere you turn there's a sign for "Navy curry" (海軍カレー kaigun karee). It's not idle boasting though as the dish is believed to have been introduced in the late 19th century by British sailors who regularly ate the easily preserved meal. The tradition of serving curry was also adopted by the Imperial Japanese Navy, who served it to their sailors every Friday. This tradition continues in the modern Japan Maritime Self-Defense Forces today.
Many restaurants feature the "Yokosuka burger", based on an American Navy recipe.
Food "halls" (similar to a grocery store) are under the Saikaya department store, the More's City shopping plaza, and the Avenue 580 shopping arcade. Saikaya and More also feature floors of restaurants, as does the Daiei Shopper's Plaza on the waterfront near Shiori Station.
- Tomato & Garlic, ☏ +81 46-822-8558. More's 9F, Italian restaurant. Serves pizza, salads and dessert. Also a great restaurant if reserving for a party.
Drink
editYokosuka's best-known bar district is known as The Honch, a half-block from the CFAY Naval Base Main Gate and a popular haunt of American sailors. The Honch encompasses parts of Honcho 1-chome, 2-chome and 3-chome and runs parallel to Route 16 from Chūō-o-dori ("Blue Street" in sailor slang, due to the blue composition asphalt) and all the way to Shiori-eki; basically covering the entire commercial district between Yokosuka Chūō and Shioiri stations.
The Honch is home to dozens of different bars, eateries and nightclubs. These establishments range from traditional Japanese-style bars to American-oriented hang-outs that cater primarily to American sailors. Additionally, there are several "buy-me-a-drink" bars located in the area, typically staffed by Filipina women. There are also a number of "Japanese only" bars in the area.
- Tommy's Chu-Hi Stand (2 min from Shioiri station). Has no seats and customers must stand up while drinking at homemade wooden tables. The Chu-hi's are made here by mixing off-the shelf canned flavored chu-hi's with Shōchū. Has a very interesting blend of American and Japanese money on the walls with various drawings or sayings
- Jammin. Popular rock bar located on the Honch. Bar adheres to a strictly all rock policy. There are frequent live band performances from all over Yokosuka and sailors from the US Naval Base.
- Pumpkin Live House (かぼちゃ屋). Easily recognizable by the many band stickers and fliers adorning the bar's outside hall, the Pumpkin is a 'proper' live music venue specializing in punk rock. Contrary to popular belief, the bar welcomes Japanese and foreigners alike, and the staff speaks perfect English. The bar has a schedule for upcoming gigs for the month posted on the outside of the bar. Admission prices vary from gig to gig, but the usual range is from ¥1,000 to 3,500. Of course, when not hosting any events, admission is free.
- George's. A country and western bar located on Dobuita Street across from Rock City. George also owns several other bars in the Honch, including Rock City. Has a beer pong table and also a pool table, a lot of "country" or people who grew up in small towns enjoy the atmosphere here
- . Amazing mix of Philippine and American style pub, great music, great atmosphere, a lot of room and great bartenders who speak flawless English. One of the top newer bars in the Honch area.
- Popeye's Located slightly off the beaten path, this is the quintessential dive bar. The bar stools are made of stacked milk crates with a thin cushion stapled to the top, and the margins of the room are littered with old car parts. A staircase in the back enticingly leads upstairs, but it is piled high with clutter and unusable. The pool table gets a lot of use, despite its tattered appearance. The bar is notorious for its extremely strong drinks, which are nonetheless priced similarly to other bars in The Honch. Order a Long Island Iced Tea, and watch Popeye (the bartender) fill it up to see for your own eyes.
Sleep
edit- Central Hotel (セントラルホテル), ☏ +81 46-827-1111. Older business hotel behind Keikyu Yokosuka Chuo station. Known for its small rooms.
- Hotel Harbour Yokosuka (ホテルハーバー横須賀) (Near Keikyu Shiori station), ☏ +81 46-822-0001. Pleasant older rooms, good rates.
- Mercure Yokosuka (メルキュール横須賀). The nicest hotel in this part of Yokosuka. Formerly part of the Prince and Trinity chains. This hotel is directly across from the Daiei mall. The staff is exceptionally courteous and speak English. Rooms are larger here than most other hotels in the area. ☏ +81 46-821-1111.
- Hotel Yokosuka (ホテル横須賀), end of Yonegahama Street, ☏ +81 46-525-1111. An older, but well-kept hotel. Same group as the next
- Hotel New Yokosuka (ホテルニューヨコスカ). A large, newer hotel a couple blocks from the CFAY Yokosuka Naval Base main gate. Caters to foreigners (and sometimes referred to as "Little America"). All front desk staff speak English. Handsome bar and lobby. Tel ☏ +81 46-820-1111.
- Hotel Palace (ホテルパレス), 1-11-11 Wakamatsucho (a few blocks from Yokosuka Chuo station).
Go next
edit- Nokogiriyama — Famous cliffs with a large, outdoor stone Buddha; take the Tokyo Bay Ferry from Kurihama across to Chiba
- The beach towns of Zushi and Hayama are nearby.
- Kamakura is only 20 minutes, ¥210, from Yokosuka Station (JR line).
- Miura
- Fujisawa
- Chigasaki
- Yokohama
- Kawasaki
- Machida
| Routes through Yokosuka |
| END ← | S  N |
→ Zushi → Kamakura |
| Misakiguchi ← Uraga ← | S  N |
→ Yokohama → Kawasaki → Shinagawa |
| END ← | S  N |
→ Zushi → Yokohama |
| END ← | S  N |
→ Yokohama → Sagamihara → Hachioji |
| Ōiso ← Kamakura ← Zushi ← | W  S |
→ Miura |