Częstochowa
Częstochowa is a city in the Silesian Voivodeship in the south of Poland; it's industrial and had a population of 214,342 in 2021. It's best known for the monastery of Jasna Góra, holding the Black Madonna icon, and is a major pilgrimage site for Roman Catholics.
Understand
editThe town is named for a medieval baron, but perhaps he was Siamese twins, as documents of 1220 describe Częstochowa and Częstochówka side by side. It was on a trade route and in 1382 became the site of the Paulist monastery of Jasna Góra ("shining mountain"). The Paulists were a Hungarian order dedicated to the hermit Saint Paul of Thebes, and held or acquired the icon of the Black Madonna. Its origin is uncertain, as it was damaged by robbers in 1430, and the repair was botched: attempts to patch it failed so it was scrubbed clean then repainted, retaining the robbers' slash marks. It was probably made in Byzantium / Constantinople sometime between the 6th and 9th centuries, and was either brought from Hungary by the monks, or was the gift of Duke Vladislaus II of Opole. The icon is a painting 122 x 82 cm with the Madonna in Hodegetria pose, gesturing towards the infant Jesus who raises a chubby paw of benediction towards the viewer; a gilt riza covers all but the faces and hands. The dusky complexions appear intentional, not the result of ageing, candle smoke or repair - some 150 Black Madonnas are known, more accurately depicting a mother and child from Nazareth circa 1 AD than the standard whitewashed imagery.
The Madonna has accreted many legends, most famously that she saved the fortified monastery during a Swedish siege in 1655. It was actually a fake that protected the monks, as the original was taken away for safety during the invasion, and her benison did not extend to the town outside the fortifications where half the population was slaughtered. The icon has propelled Częstochowa into a major pilgrimage destination, with people coming secretly at some personal risk during the long years of oppression - the future Pope John-Paul II did so as a student during the Nazi regime. The Roman Catholic religion and the Madonna of Częstochowa became symbolic of national identity as Poland moved towards independence.
Get in
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By plane
editKatowice Airport (KTW IATA) is the closest, with LOT, Lufthansa and budget airlines across Europe. Flixbus runs four times a day from Katowice town via the airport to Częstochowa, otherwise take the shuttle bus into town then the hourly train to Częstochowa.
By train
edit1 Częstochowa Osobowa is the central station - a timetable reference simply to "Częstochowa" means here. It has trains hourly from Katowice (90 min), from Warsaw every 2-3 hours (2 hr 15 min, heading for Bielsko Biala) and from Łódź every two hours. It's a tatty old place with dim passageways and few facilities.
2 Częstochowa Stradom is two km south of town centre. Trains from Kraków run every two hours, taking 1 hr 40 min and continuing to Poznań and Piła. There's an occasional direct train from Wrocław, but usually you change in Katowice.
3 Częstochowa Raków is a halt for slow trains from Gliwice and Katowice towards Osobowa station. It's just an unstaffed platform halt on the southeast edge of the city, but you might use it to reach the Archaeology Museum, Sanctuary of St Joseph or the football stadium.
By bus
editFlixbus runs 4 times a day from Katowice, taking 70-90 min via Chorzów and Katowice Airport. One of these starts from Kraków. Change in Katowice for Berlin, Vienna, Bratislava and Prague.
Two buses daily run from Warsaw, taking 2 hr 45 min. One bus daily runs from Gdańsk, taking 7 hours via Toruń and Łódź.
Dworzec Autobusowy the bus station is 200 m south of the main railway station on aleja Wolności.
By road
editHighway 75 runs south to Katowice (75 km) and north to Łódź, Toruń and Gdańsk, with Highway 67 branching for Warsaw, Białystok, Kaunas and Riga.
In August a pilgrimage walks nine days (230 km) to Częstochowa, from Wrocław via Trzebnica, Oleśnica, Wilków, Włochy, Kluczbork, Borki Małe, Borki Wielkie and Puszczew / Węglowice.
Get around
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Walking is usually best, as town centre is small and the main sights are aligned east-west along Aleje Najświętszej Maryi Panny.
Buses (40 lines) and trams (3 lines) mostly run north-south, only useful for outlying sights. The trams start from Fieldorfa-Nila turnaround 3 km north, run downtown to Osobowa main railway station, the bus station and Estakada, then diverge: T1 and T2 go east, T3 loops southside then back east to Raków station.
Be careful about the ticketing. There are ticket machines inside public transport, but they don't have any English translation. The Polish menu is not very intuitive if you don't know the language. More specifically, paying looks like it's the last option among Normal ticket, Reduced ticket,... So foreigners will find it very difficult / impossible to buy tickets. One traveller has gotten into a big argument with a ticket inspector and was given a fine. Therefore, consider talking a Bolt (app like Uber) taxi, whose price is within the city area and Stradom station only about twice the public transport fare.
See
edit- 1 Jasna Góra, A Kordeckiego 2, ☏ +48 343 777777. Daily 05:30-21:30. The most important pilgrimage site in Poland, and mobbed during mass and Marian festivals. Main entrance is south side, and the Black Madonna is in her own chapel. The main basilica is 17th century Baroque. Within the monastery north side, you visit the Knights Hall, sacristy and arsenal and can climb the tower. A replica Madonna shows you the painting without its riza covering.
- Staszic Park is a pleasant bosky space just east of Jasna Góra, open daily 06:00-22:00, dogs permitted. The stubby little yellow locomotive is a Skoda BND 30 mine tug.
- 2 Church of St Roque and St Sebastian (Kościół św Rocha i św Sebastiana) is at Św Rocha 79, one km northwest of Jasna Góra. It's Baroque, built in 1641.
- Częstochowa Museum manages several sites in town: Iron Ore Mining, Wystawowy Pavilion, City Hall, Halina Poświatowska Museum and Archaeological Museum. These all have the same hours: June-Sept Tu-Su 11:00-17:00, Oct-May Sa Su 11:00-17:00, Tu Th F 09:00-15:30, W 11:00-17:30, and adult admission to each is 12 zł in 2024.
- 3 Museum of Iron Ore Mining (Muzeum Górnictwa Rud Żelaza), Staszic Park, ☏ +48 504 757 769. Hours and prices as for Częstochowa Museum. Iron ore mining here started in medieval times, much later than elsewhere in Poland as the ores lie 75 m deep, in a strip 120 km long by 20 km wide. A mixture of open-cast and deep mining was used, ramping up in the industrial 18th century, but hampered by a shortage of timber for charcoal to smelt steel, then shattered by the partition of Poland. It revived in the 20th century - the communists were keen on mining and metal bashing - but became uneconomic and collapsed in the 1970s. The museum admits at 30 min intervals and shows old equipment, techniques and tunnels.
- Wystawowy Pavilion just north of the Iron Ore Mining Museum is a venue for temporary exhibitions.
- 4 City Hall (Ratusz Miejski), Al Najświętszej Marii Panny 45 (on Plac Biegańskiego), ☏ +48 343 605631. Closed ufn. This is the main site of the museum, exhibiting history of the city and its citizens. There's a viewing gallery atop the clock tower. However vandals ripped open a water valve and flooded the place: the exhibits were saved, but it's not known if the building will be reparable.
- 5 Saint James Church (Św Jakuba Apostoła), Jana Kilińskiego 8, ☏ +48 343 241187. Built as an Orthodox church in 1870, it passed to the Roman Catholics in 1914.
- 6 Halina Poświatowska Museum, Jasnogórska 23, ☏ +48 504 757391. Hours and prices as for Częstochowa Museum. Halina Poświatowska (née Myga, 1935-67) was a poet and writer, whose lyrical but melancholy works remain popular today. At age 9 a streptococcal infection exacerbated a congenital heart condition, so she was an invalid with heart failure for her short life in spite of two operations. At 19 she married a similar young invalid, Adolf Ryszard Poświatowski, who died two years later. Her brother Zbigniew Myga curates this museum of her life and work.
- 7 St Sigismund, Krakowska 1, ☏ +48 343 241486. The oldest church in town, from early 15th century.
- 8 Jewish Museum, Katedralna 8, ☏ +48 667 605631. W Sa 11:00-17:00, F 09:00-17:30. The medieval town had a large Jewish population, and in the 18th / 19th century was a hotbed of Frankism, an anarchic Jewish sect. Almost all 30,000 were wiped out in 1941, events depicted in Art Spiegelman's graphic novel Maus.
- 9 Cathedral Basilica of the Holy Family (Bazylika Archikatedralna Świętej Rodziny), Krakowska 15, ☏ +48 343 653638. Built from 1901 to 1927 in sturdy Neo-gothic redbrick, with the towers added in 1997, it's cavernous inside.
- 10 Match Production Museum (Muzeum Produkcji Zapałek), Ogrodowa 68, ☏ +48 602 462285, sekretariat@zapalki.pl. June-Aug M-F 08:00-16:00, Sa Su 10:00-15:00; Sept-May M-F 08:00-15:00. Production of matches began here in 1882. What you see now is the process from 1930, when the factory was re-built after a second fire; a third fire in 2008 busted the owners and it never resumed production. Guided tours (only in Polish) walk you through the manufacture. Adult 20 zł, child 10 zł.
- 11 St Barbara's Church, Świętej Barbary 51, ☏ +48 343 684560. Daily 06:00-20:00. Baroque church built in 1637, supposedly on the site where the smashed-up stolen Madonna was recovered. (The Hussites got blamed for the deed, but the Mother Church detested those proto-Lutheran zealots and welcomed any excuse to burn them at the stake.) The holy spring here is reputed to cure this 'n that.
- Railway History Museum, ul Pułaskiego 100 (within Stradom Railway Station), ☏ +48 502 128 687. W, Sa 10:00-13:00. Small railway museum run by volunteers, the highlight is the locomotive simulator. Donation.
- 12 Archaeological Museum, Majora Waleriana Łukasińskiego 20 (Tram 1 or 2), ☏ +48 504 757190. Hours and prices as for Częstochowa Museum, but Sa Su open only on third weekend of the month. This is a necropolis of the Lusatian culture or Nordic Bronze Age, with graves and funeral goods dating back to around 700 BC.
- 13 Sanctuary of St Joseph (Sanktuarium św Józefa) at Stefana Okrzei 41 is a Baroque church, but only completed in 1928.
- 14 Jewish Cemetery is an atmospheric place 3 km east of town, open 24 hours.
Further out
edit- Olsztyn is a village 8 km southeast of Częstochowa, not to be confused with the Masurian city of Olsztyn. The reason to visit is its ruined castle.
- 15 Castle Olsztyn, Zamkowa 18, Olsztyn, ☏ +48 784 628845. Daily 09:00-19:00. This was built by Casimir the Great in the 14th century. It was wrecked by the Swedes in 1655 and abandoned. Adult 10 zł.
Do
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- Filharmonia Concert Hall is at Tomasza Wilsona 16, 500 m north of the main railway station.
- Adama Mickiewicza Theatre is at Jana Kilińskiego 15, 100 m north of St James Church.
- Cinema City Wolność is on Aleja Tadeusza Kościuszki, 400 north of the main railway station.
- Football: Raków Częstochowa play soccer in Ekstraklasa, Poland's top tier. Their home ground Miejski Stadion Piłkarski, capacity 5500, is one km south of Raków railway station.
- Park Wodny is an indoor pool and water park at Dekabrystów 47, one km north of town centre, open 10:00-22:00.
Buy
edit- Galeria Jurajska is a large shopping centre on al Wojska Polskiego 500 m east of Osobowa main railway station, open M-Sa 10:00-22:00.
- Auchan is a supermarket 200 m southwest of the station on Marszałka Focha, open M-Sa 06:30-22:00.
- Don't buy a single thing from shady characters hanging round the monastery selling stuff "in aid of restoration", or for cute babies in some fly-blown place. It will go straight to their next bottle of vodka.
Eat
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- Eating places are strung along Aleja Najświętszej Maryi Panny towards Jasna Góra. They include Rycerska, Czeski Film Pub, Gospoda Kwaśnica, Ecru, La Vita da Re, Aleja 57, Awokado, Topollino, Dobry Rok and Dom Pizzy i Wina.
- Another little strip is just north of Jasna Góra along Wieluńska. Here are Klimaty, Pireus, Il Gusto and Clusu.
Drink
edit- Pubs are along the restaurant strip of Aleja Najswietszej Marii Panny and include Lucky Saloon microbrewery, Piwiarnia w Alejach (below), Lomobar, Micro Klimat, Szafa Gra and Wall Street Burger Sports Bar.
- Piwiarnia w Alejach, Aleja Najswietszej Marii Panny 31. Su-Th 16:30-22:00, F Sa 16:30-00:00. Wide selection of Polish craft beers.
- Brewery: Piwo z Zuka brews unusual ales 200 m east of the main railway station at Ogrodowa 14.
Sleep
edit- 1 Hostel Open Garden, Jana Kilińskiego 32, ☏ +48 787 682 912. Friendly hostel north side of town. The rooms are more like studio apartments than bunkrooms.
- 2 Mercure Centrum, Ks J Popieluszki 2, ☏ +48 34 360 3100. Standard Accor chain hotel: tiny rooms but clean, functional and central. B&B double €100.
- 3 Hotel Park 17, Świętego Kazimierza 17A, ☏ +48 34 344 1010. New in 2023 so it's clean, comfy and eager to please. B&B double €110.
- Pilgrim House (Dom Pielgrzyma) is on Kardynała Stefana Wyszyńskiego facing the shrine.
- 4 Hotel Arche (Hotel Czestochowa), Oleńki 20, ☏ +48 34 344 1010. Slick welcoming place, modern with aircon and ample parking. B&B double €80.
- 5 ibis Czestochowa, Jaskrowska 22, ☏ +48 34 377 4500. Another value-for-money Accor hotel, near highway junction northeast edge of town. B&B double €80.
Connect
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As of March 2024, the town has 5G from all Polish carriers, and its approach highways have 4G.
Go next
edit- Nakło - 46 km east has an 18th century palace.
- Ogrodzieniec - in south-east direction, with epic 14th century stone castle
- Opole - small city by the river, centre of Opole Land
- Katowice - to the south is mostly post-industrial but is a transport hub with many sights of interest.
- Łódź - city 100 km to the north with textile industry traditions