Kumano Kodo

The Kumano Kodō (熊野古道) is a collection of pilgrimage routes in Kansai. These routes terminate at the Kumano Sanzan, a set of three shrines in southern Wakayama. The routes are one of two pilgrimage routes that are inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Understand

The Hongu Taisha, one of the Kumano Sanzan

The Kumano Kodo have been in use for over 1,000 years by pilgrims travelling between the many sacred sites on the Kii Peninsula. The centre of this sacred area were the Kumano Sanzan, a collection of three sacred shrines. These shrines are the 1 Hongu Taisha in Hongu, 2 Hayatama Taisha in Shingu, and 3 Nachi Taisha in Nachikatsuura. The Kumano Kodo was not just a way to travel to these shrines but it was also its own religious experience as pilgrims would have to pass through harsh mountainous terrain. Depending on the route you choose to travel the journey can take between two days to half a month.

Prepare

The Kumano Kodo is best hiked in spring or fall due to the temperate weather, the journey can be uncomfortably hot during summer and during winter some routes can be unsafe due to ice or snow. If you are travelling with large amounts of luggage you may want to pay for a luggage carrying service which are available on the more popular routes such as Nakahechi. The route of Omine Okugakemichi may require you to camp and bring food during the pilgrimage as there are long sections without human inhabitant on the route.

Routes

Some of the main routes of the Kumano Kodo

Kumano Kodo is not a single route, but a group of them, which vary in difficulty and time taken. Some routes have become less serene due to modern development. The mountainous Nakahechi and coastal Ohechi routes are the "core" trails between the shrines, while the other routes connect to their various starting points. The most popular route is Nakahechi due to the fact it still travels through undeveloped nature while also passing through many small villages where travellers can sleep or get a bite to eat.

Nakahechi

The 68 km Nakahechi (中辺路) connects 1 Tanabe and the Nachi Taisha via the mountains. It is by far the most popular route and also the easiest to complete. Depending on your pace, the route takes anywhere from two to four two days to complete. There are many shrines, teahouses and rest stops along the route. The Tanabe tourism board offers a luggage shuttle to lighten your load when hiking. The descent to the Hongu Taisha at the route's end is considered the one of the beautiful parts of the trail as it offers stunning views of the Torii gate.

Ōhechi

Daimonzaka, a pass that functions as part of the Nakahechi

The 92 km Ōhechi (大辺路) follows the coast from Tanabe to the Nachi Taisha, it connects the same destinations as the Nakahechi but through different terrain. The trail takes three to five days and offers views of the ocean that are not available on the other routes. The route has decreased in popularity in modern times due to the development of roads and highways on the route. Visitors will mostly have to walk on paved road during the routes early sections but the route will head through primeval forest as one continues. There are many small villages and train stations on the route where one can rest or purchase while travelling the trail.

Kohechi/Kōya-san Chōishi-michi

The 70 km Kohechi (小辺路), whose first part is also known as Kōya-san Chōishi-michi (高野山町石道), has been travelled since the 13th century as pilgrims would travel between 2 Mount Koya and the Hongu Taisha. It takes roughly four days but one may have to go out of the way to find accommodation. It is one of the most mountainous hiking routes in Japan with over 1,000 meters elevation gain and travellers should be well prepared and have experience with long mountain routes.

Ōmine Okugake-michi

The 170 km Ōmine Okugake-michi (大嶺奥駆道) connects 3 Yoshino with the Kumano Sanzan while travelling via Mount Omine. Okugake means 'running into the deep'. Typically tackled in 5-6 days, due to the low number of towns on the route it is considered one of the most dangerous routes and camping may be required in some sections, additionally you may need to pack food with you due to the lack of options on the route. Women may not travel this route due to the fact that Mount Omine is closed to woman.

Ise route

The 170 km Ise route (伊勢路 Ise-ji) connects the 4 Ise Grand Shrine in Ise to the Kumano Sanzan. It was particularly popular during the Edo Period. Most of the route has been developed with modern roads and may be less appealing than other routes. Some parts of the route such as those in Kumano (city) are still natural thought. The journey takes around two weeks.

Kii route

The Kii route (紀伊路 Kii-ji) connects Nara and the central Kansai region to the Kumano Sanzan. It is rarely walked, since Highway 42 and the JR Kii Line now duplicate much of the ancient route.

Go next

After finishing a route you will probably want to visit the all three grand Kumano shrines rather than just the one your chosen route ends at. The nearest station to the shrines are Shingu Station and Nachi Station. From these stations infrequent trains depart northeast towards Ise and Nagoya, you can also head west to Wakayama and Osaka. You can head to Mount Koya by bus through the mountains with a transfer in Totsukawa, this takes about four hours, it also passes through Ryujin Onsen in Tanabe where you can relax after the pilgrimage.