Kazakhstan

Kazakhstan (Kazakh: Қазақстан Qazaqstan; Russian: Казахстан) is the largest of the states of the former Soviet Union apart from Russia, and it dwarfs the other countries of Central Asia and stretches into Eastern Europe. Kazakhstan is the richest country in the region due to its large oil and natural gas reserves and is also the largest in Central Asia. And while the endless, featureless steppe might repel some visitors the emptiness and mystery of this goliath state keeps many others captivated.

Regions

Kazakhstan regions - Color-coded map

Almaty Province This is the location of the former capital, with treks into Tian Shan, historic towns, and ancient petroglyphs.

Kazakhstani North These are the cold steppes home to the national capital, the country's Russian minority, and industrial cities.

Kazakh Desert The location of ancient desert cities dotting the Silk Road.

Altai Includes remote and beautiful alpine scenery.

Caspian Basin Includes Caspian beaches and oil industry, and where local tribal affiliations are still strong.

Central Highlands This is a land of endless and sparsely populated steppes.

Cities

• 1 Astana — second largest city, and capital since 1997. Worth visiting but you only need a few days to get to the most worthwhile sights. This city is brand new and being built very rapidly. If you want to see what the old Aqmola looks like, you need to do it now as it is disappearing very rapidly.
• 2 Almaty — largest city, and capital until 1998. Definitely a must-see. Beside the Soviet-style city, you may want to go to the Medeu and other places in the nearby mountains.
• 3 Aktobe
• 4 Atyrau — oil capital of Kazakhstan, with large onshore Tengiz and offshore Kashagan oilfields nearby
• 5 Pavlodar — Kazakh city in the very north of the country, founded in 1720, closed until 1992 for its military significance in tank production, and home to one very impressive mosque, as well as other interesting Orthodox churches and various memorials
• 6 Semey (Semipalatinsk) — university city notorious for the nearby atomic bomb testing site
• 7 Shymkent — Kazakhstan's third largest city, very crowded with Uzbek people, it is an old market town located near Tashkent and some beautiful mountains; now booming with oil exploration
• 8 Turkestan — another ancient city, long a border town between the Persian culture to the south and the Turkic nomadic culture to the north, now majority Uzbek and home to several important cultural-historical monuments
• 9 Ust-Kamenogorsk — mining city in the Altai mountains; primarily Russian-speaking

Other destinations

Landscape in the Altai Mountains

• 1 Aksu-Zhabagly — a nature reserve
• 2 Altai Mountains
• 3 Baikonur — site of the spaceport
• 4 Karkaraly National Park
• 5 Talgar — a town nearby the Talgar Mountains
• 6 Zailiysky Alatau (Trans-Ili Alatau) — a 200 km long mountain range

Understand

Capital	Astana
Currency	Kazakhstani tenge (KZT)
Population	19 million (2021)
Electricity	220 volt / 50 hertz (Europlug, Schuko)
Country code	+7
Time zone	UTC+05:00
Emergencies	112, 101 (fire department), 102 (police force), 103 (emergency medical services)
Driving side	right
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History

Ethnic Kazakhs, a mix of Turkic and Mongol nomadic tribes who migrated into the region in the 13th century, were united as a single nation in the mid-16th century. The area was conquered by the Russian Empire in the 18th century, and Kazakhstan became a Soviet Republic in 1936. The traditionally-nomadic Kazakhs were forced to sedentarize as part of Stalin's collectivization policies. While it became independent following the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, the country is still home to a large ethnic Russian minority, and the Russian language continues to be widely spoken.

During the launching of the 1950s and 1960s agricultural "Virgin Lands" program, Soviet citizens were encouraged to help cultivate Kazakhstan's northern pastures. This influx of immigrants (mostly Russians, but also some other deported nationalities, including the Volga Germans) skewed the ethnic mixture and enabled non-Kazakhs to outnumber natives. Independence has caused many of these newcomers and their descendants to emigrate.

Modern Kazakhstan is a neo-patrimonial state characterized by considerable nepotism and dominance over political and economic affairs by President Nursultan Nazarbayev, who stepped down in March 2019 after a 29-year-tenure. However, it is not a severely authoritarian government compared to bordering Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan and China and opposition is not usually sacked or imprisoned. Since independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, the Kazakh government has allowed foreign investment to flow into the capital to develop. The development of significant oil and gas reserves, particularly in the north and west, has brought a large amount of wealth to the country, though the money falls into the hands of just a few people. Nevertheless, Kazakhstan is now labelled a middle-income country, and is already classified with a high human development index. Corruption in Kazakhstan is ubiquitous compared to China, but it is not as widespread as other countries in the region.

Religion

While Islam is the majority religion, Kazakhstan is nevertheless a secular state with a significant Christian minority, and the variety of Islam practised here tends to be more liberal than that in the Middle East.

Economy

Current issues include: developing a cohesive national identity; expanding the development of the country's vast energy resources and exporting them to world markets (an oil pipeline to China has been built; the gas pipeline is under construction); achieving a sustainable economic growth outside the oil, gas, and mining sectors, and strengthening relations with surrounding states and other foreign powers. Kazakhstan is also a key part of China's Belt and Road Initiative, with plans for a high-speed rail through Kazakhstan linking China to Europe.

Visitor information

• Kazakhstan Travel website
• Kazakh Tourism webiste

Get in

Historically, entering Kazakhstan used to be a hassle. The Kazakh government is keen on opening up Kazakhstan to the rest of the world and today, most people can enter the country without a visa.

Entry requirements

Citizens of the following countries (ordinary passport holders) may enter Kazakhstan without a visa for up to a certain number of days:

• 14 days: China (mainland), Hong Kong, India and Iran
• 30 days: Australia, Austria, Argentina, Bahrain, Belgium, Bulgaria, Brazil, Vatican City, United Kingdom, Hungary, Vietnam, Germany, Greece, Denmark, Israel, Indonesia, Ireland, Iceland, Spain, Italy, Canada, Qatar, Cyprus, Colombia, South Korea, Kuwait, Latvia, Lithuania, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malaysia, Malta, Mexico, Monaco, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, United Arab Emirates, Oman, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Saudi Arabia, Serbia, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, United States, Thailand, Turkey, Uzbekistan, Philippines, Finland, France, Croatia, Czech Republic, Chile, Switzerland, Sweden, Ecuador, Estonia and Japan
• 90 days: Azerbaijan, Armenia, Belarus, Georgia, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova, Mongolia, Russia, Tajikistan and Ukraine

Check the Kazakh government website for the latest list. All other nationalities are required to obtain a visa in advance, which will require you to present a letter of invitation from a resident of Kazakhstan. If you are joining a package tour, the tour company can usually procure the letter of invitation for an additional fee; check with the company to be sure.

If you know in advance that your stay will be longer, e.g. for work, then you need a visa, which will need to be supported by an official Letter of Invitation from the employer or agency in Kazakhstan. For more information see Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Kazakhstan. For tourist visits where you're enjoying the country so much that you want to stay on, the simplest way is to take a trip to neighbouring Kyrgyzstan, which also has no visa requirement for many countries, and come straight back to gain another 30-day stay. There's no limit how often you do this.

Registration (card): this practice has been discontinued since 2020 - you now only get an entry and an exit stamp.

By plane

Air Astana plane at the runway of Almaty airport

Kazakhstan's flag carrier is Air Astana which flies into Almaty and Astana from Abu Dhabi, Moscow, Delhi, Beijing, Istanbul, Bangkok, Baku, Kuala Lumpur, Frankfurt, and Seoul.

Air Astana keeps a monopoly on some international routes by limiting which airlines can fly to Kazakhstan.

Lufthansa also has daily flights to Almaty, from where you can go anywhere via local carrier SCAT, which flies to most cities in Kazakhstan. Turkish Airlines is a good passenger carrier, with flights from Istanbul (ask a travel agent about the student fares, which can be a great deal). Many airlines from Middle East, e.g., flyDubai and Qatar Airways fly to Kazakhstan as well.

There are twice a week flights from Seoul to Almaty; one is with Asiana Airlines, and the other is Astana. Airbaltic also flies to Almaty; if you reserve tickets in advance, you can go there for €130 (from Riga).

Etihad flies weekly from Abu Dhabi to Astana. Flight time is around 4½ hours.

Taxi fares from the airport to the city range are 2,000-3,000 tenge.

A Russian transit visa is needed if changing planes in Russia when travelling to or from Kazakhstan.

By train

See also: Moscow to Urumqi

Trains in Kazakhstan are slow but comfortable and clean. Popular routes include Almaty to/from Moscow (77 hours), Novosibirsk (35 hours) and Ürümqi, China (34 hours). Count on a 3–4 hr stay at the Russian border or 6–8 hr at the Chinese border. Trains in Kazakhstan can also be booked on-line. For trains use Railways.KZ and book Talgo trains are much more modern and the smell of the bathroom makes the slight increase in price entirely worth it.

By car

You can enter Kazakhstan by car through many of the border checkpoints on main roads into the country. However, be prepared to wait up to 24 hours in the queues, with rather poor facilities.

By bus

From China

It is fairly easy to travel from Ürümqi to Almaty via sleeper bus, especially if you aren't in a hurry and don't mind living on a bus for 24 to 36 hours. The border crossing itself is a bit of a hike, and you may be made to carry all of your belongings with you for quite a way in some seriously warm weather. The bus trip and "baggage fees" are around US$45. You can pick up your Kazakhstan visa at the consulate in Ürümqi as well, but be prepared to chill for at least a week waiting, and be sure to get a copy of your passport before handing it over.

From Kyrgyzstan

It is a straight forward 3½-4½ hr (mini) bus ride from Bishkek to Almaty for about 1,200-1,800 tenge, depending on the option you choose (e.g. 500 som directly from the Bishkek Western Bus Station). For more information, see Almaty.

By boat

See also: Ferries in the Caspian Sea

Freighters travel regularly between Baku and Aktau, and it is possible to hitch a ride. It is common for ships to be held up, even for weeks, before entering port, so you had better stock up on food and water before boarding. See freighter travel to better understand how this works.

Get around

Road sign pointing to Uzbek Khan's grave near Aktau

You can travel within the country using taxis, buses, trains and planes, it depends on your budget and demands.

By bus

In Semipalatinsk (Semey) a marshrutka costs 35 tenge, and a large bus costs 35-40 tenge. In Astana it ranges between 60-65 tenge.

Public buses

Public transportation in big cities is rather popular. You can use buses, trolleys, trams and minibuses. One big minus of all of them is that they never come on schedule and very crowded on peak time. Moreover, there is absolutely no plan with bus stops and schedule whatsoever. If you don't speak Russian, taking the bus will be quite tricky but not impossible.

Marshrutkas

Similar to regular buses and another cheap way to get around is by taking a marshrutka. These are the dilapidated transport vans that cruise around or between towns. They usually have a sign (in Russian) listing the destination, and the driver will usually call out where they are going. However, you will not find them operating inside of Almaty city.

Long-distance buses

"Old bus in Kazakhstan"

They're a popular alternative to trains and are faster, but less comfortable. Similarly to train travel, you will need to buy your ticket in advance and will be given a seat number. Be careful when the bus makes a toilet stop, the driver often does not check whether all the passengers are on board before driving away!

Fares are relatively low, for instance a single from Almaty to Karaganda (14 hr) will cost you 2,500 tenge—much cheaper than a flight ticket.

By taxi

Use taxis as they are very cheap (€2-6 within the city). You don't have to use official taxis in most cities, basically you can stop almost any car on the street by raising your hand. It works well in Almaty & Astana, but in Karaganda the best way is one of taxis by phone. It some cheaper and even faster than hitch-hike waiting.

Apps such as Uber or Bolt do not work in Kazakhstan, but you can download Yandex Go and use this for everything. If you are staying there for any length, this is highly advisable as they are cheap and efficient nationwide.

Getting to the Almaty airport can be expensive. Taxis to the airport vary greatly in price. Any foreigner will be quoted a very expensive rate but usually drivers will come down once they see they aren't going to be able to get that much. US$50 is outlandish. Do not accept the first price as it will result in your being overcharged. It should be less than US$15, although it can never be guaranteed that a foreigner will get that price. A better option are the minibuses and buses that go to the airport. The word "airport" is very similar in Russian and English.

A common way to get around is by unofficial taxis. Any time of day, just wave your hand and someone will stop. Locals do this all the time. Negotiate the price and destination before you agree to go. About US$2-4 is fair for a ride within the centre of Almaty. If your Russian is poor or non-existent, you will be charged a lot more than locals; to avoid this, try to use public buses as much as you can and don't hesitate to tell the driver how much you are ready to pay (do this before he tells you how much he wants). To be safe though, do not get in a car if more than one person is driving. Also, do not take these kind of taxis for long distances or anywhere that goes through remote areas, as there are frequent robberies, especially of foreigners.

Always try to have exact amount of money in cash (the price which you negotiated with a taxi driver), since usually they will not give you change. So if the price should be 350 tenge, give the driver 350 tenge, not more (as he or she might not give change).

Shared taxis (usually old Mercedeses with room for 4 passengers) are a common means of transport between the big cities in the south (for example: Taraz - Shymkent, Shymkent - Turkestan). They usually leave where the marshrutkas leave from as well, and are slightly more expensive (and slightly faster). Often used by the local elderly and women.

By rail

Railway map of Kazakhstan

Train is the most popular way of covering the huge distances between Kazakhstan's main cities. The main railway stations are in Astana, Karaganda and Almaty, but stations can be found in almost every big city.

The rolling stock, train classes, ticket and reservation systems were inherited from the former Soviet Railways, so they are very similar to the Russian train system.

Ticket prices are slightly lower than in Russia. Kazakh Railways tickets can be bought online.

Kazakhstan is a large country. For instance, it will take you almost 24 hours to get from Almaty to Astana. However, going by train is a very fun way of travelling, since the trains are a great way to meet people. A lot has been written about the pitfalls of being included in a vodka drinking party on a train, but for the most part fellow travellers are friendly, and keen to find out about you ("why aren't you married?" and, if you are, "why don't you have children?", and if you do, "why don't they have children?"!) Most travellers take food for the journey, as restaurant car provision is sporadic (and they expect you to share yours too!). If you don't have enough to last the distance, the trains generally stop for 15–20 minutes at each station and there are always people on the platform selling food and drink, at any time of day or night.

There is also a train called the Talgo, which can cover the distance from Almaty and Astana in 9 hours. The cost of the ticket is about 9,000 tenge.

By plane

Air Astana provides offices in a few major hotels in big cities; it's the fastest way of travelling within the city for those who can afford it. Planes are brand new and match European standards in quality. Qazaq Air and SCAT are cheaper alternatives and also provide connections between major Kazakh cities, with the most frequently served connection being the route Astana - Almaty.

By car

Renting a car is rather costly compared to other means of transport.

The traffic culture is different from that in the West. Cars and roads in Kazakhstan are often in poor condition. The use of seat belts on the front seats is compulsory and carefully enforced by the police. However, rear seat belts are often not worn or not used. In general, traffic rules are not always respected and speeding is common.

There are relatively few petrol stations on the roads, so if you are going on a longer journey, it is a good idea to take enough fuel with you, including for spare tanks. It is a good idea to buy fuel only from well-known petrol station chains because of the uneven quality of the fuel sold.

Avoid driving at night. In most urban areas, only the main roads are lit. In winter, road surfaces are often dangerously slippery and in winter, roads outside towns and cities may be closed due to snowstorms or high winds.

Talk

See also: Kazakh phrasebook, Russian phrasebook

Mausoleum of Khodja Ahmed Yasavi, Turkestan

Kazakh and Russian are the two official languages of Kazakhstan. Of the two, Russian is the more useful language.

Kazakh is a Turkic language and shares a high degree of mutual intelligibility with Kyrgyz.

Kazakhs are very proud of their native language; demonstrating interest in or speaking a few words of Kazakh will be met with jovial, delighted reactions!

Many people under age 25 will know some English, as will many customs officials and airport staff.

It is difficult to get around the country without some Russian or Kazakh language skills; though, within the more modernized cities, it is easier. Have your place of residence written on a card and get a taxi if you get lost (you might be somewhat overcharged by the taxi, but it is better than being lost).

See

As the Kazakhs were traditionally nomads who lived on horseback, Kazakhstan for the most part lacks the monumental Islamic architecture of neighboring Uzbekistan. However, Kazakhstan makes up for this with its wealth of natural beauty, which can be seen in the wide open spaces between its cities.

Visitors wanting to experience the traditional Kazakh nomadic lifestyle will likely be disappointed. Under Stalin's collectivization policy during the period of Soviet rule, the Kazakhs were forced to sedentarize and become farmers, all but wiping out the nomadic tradition within the borders of modern Kazakhstan. There are opportunities for tourists to stay in Kazakh yurts, but these were re-created in the post-Soviet era as tourist attractions, and are not an authentic part of the daily lives of regular Kazakh people. Nevertheless, traditional Kazakh clothing still reflects that nomadic heritage and traditional life on horseback, the horse remains an important part of Kazakh culture, which visitors can see on display in its full glory during major traditional festivals. Perhaps ironically, the traditional Kazakh nomadic lifestyle is better preserved among the ethnic Kazakh minorities in Western Mongolia and China's Xinjiang province than in Kazakhstan, making those better destinations if that is what you are looking to experience.

Various tour companies operate in Almaty and Astana year-round, shuttling tourists to nature and scenic destinations outside of urban centres. These companies primarily cater to Indian and Mainland Chinese tourists, and their styles of travel, which involve many short photo stops and short visits to as many destinations as possible. Private tours are frequently just private taxi transfers to the entrances of attractions with little to no English commentary.

• Baikonur – The famous cosmodrome site for the launch of the first manned orbital flight by Yuri Gagarin. The modern town of Baikonur was built near the existing village of Tyuratam. As the cosmodrome area (6,000 km²) is rented by Russia, no Kazakh visa is needed if you fly in directly from Moscow. Tours can be organised but reportedly these take weeks to be approved by Russian authorities.
• Köl-Say Lakes
• The modern buildings of Astana – A contrast to most of the rest of Kazakhstan
• Endless desert and steppe in much of the country
• The Altai mountains in eastern Kazakhstan, and other mountain chains along the southern border.

Do

Many attractions in Kazakhstan are closed on Monday as a "sanitary day", so that uninterrupted cleaning and maintenance can occur.

• Saunas: Because of its cold and windy weather, visiting saunas with friends is very popular in Kazakhstan. Saunas (Russian banyas or Finnish steam rooms) are an excellent place to discuss business issues or just socialize with friends. Having parties (birthdays, New Year, etc.) in saunas is a normal practice. In fact many modern sauna complexes in Almaty and Astana are usually fully equipped with karaoke, billiards, swimming pools, relax rooms, massage rooms, etc. Some saunas are a cover for sex services, and many will include a "happy end" option when taking a massage.
• Football: Kazakhstan is about as central in Asia as you can get, but it has a fingernail of territory west of the Volga in Europe and chooses to affiliate to UEFA. That means its national and leading club soccer teams are often involved in tournaments with better-known western teams, involving a very long journey. The domestic playing season is March-Nov to escape the rigours of the steppes winter. The men's national team usually play in Astana. The domestic top tier is the Premier League with 14 clubs, two in Astana and one in Almaty.

Buy

Money

Exchange rates for Kazakhstani tenge As of January 2024: US$1 ≈ 460 tenge €1 ≈ 500 tenge UK£1 ≈ 580 tenge Exchange rates fluctuate. Current rates for these and other currencies are available from XE.com

The national currency is tenge, denoted by the symbol "₸" or "T" (Cyrillic: тенге, ISO code: KZT). On Wikivoyage we use tenge to denote the currency, e.g. 100 tenge. Coins come in denominations of ₸1-, ₸2-, ₸5-, ₸10-, ₸20-, ₸50-, ₸100 and ₸200. Banknotes come in denominations of ₸200-, ₸500-, ₸1,000-, ₸2,000-, ₸5,000-, ₸10,000 and ₸20,000.

Costs

What does it cost? (2019) Meal, inexpensive restaurant: 2,000 tenge Meal for 2, mid-range restaurant, 3-course: 10,000 tenge Domestic beer (0.5 l draught): 400 tenge Coke/Pepsi (0.33 l bottle): 190 tenge Water (0.33 l bottle): 120 tenge Loaf of bread (500 g): 90 tenge Beef (1 kg): 2,000 tenge Apples (1 kg): 450 tenge One-way ticket (local transport): 80 tenge Taxi start, per km: 425, 100 tenge Gasoline (1 l): 170 tenge Apartment (1 bed) in city centre/month: 111,000 tenge Average monthly net salary (after tax): 139,000 tenge

Kazakhstan is slightly more expensive than Uzbekistan, but still cheaper than Turkmenistan. A street snack costs around US$0.30-0.70. A night in a dorm in the big cities is US$10-20. A more comfortable double room is US$60-80.

Shopping

Even for people who are not big shoppers, the beautifully crafted felt items will appeal. They are also easy to carry and inexpensive to post.

Kazakhstan is also home to its own carpet weaving tradition, which is similar to that in neighboring Kyrgyzstan. The two types of traditional rugs in Kazakhstan are called syrmak and tekemet.

Eat

Meat, potatoes, rice and pasta. And lots of it. If you're vegetarian be wary, because if it doesn't have meat in it, it will be almost certainly cooked in meat stock.

Beshbarmak

Manty

Korean carrot salad, created by Koryo people (the Korean diaspora in Central Asia)

Some recommended dishes:

• Beshbarmak - "five fingers", a horse meat and pasta dish with potato and onion. The national traditional dish of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan most often served for special occasions. Can also be made with beef or lamb. Most restaurants that serve it will present a portion enough for two or three people.
• Kazy - handmade horse meat sausage, could be cooked and served with Beshbarmak, but not at the restaurants, unless you ask to do so when preorder menu. If you did not, it would be served as cold meat appetizer with other types of cold meat appetizers (Zhaya, Basturma, Shyzhyk). And separate price would be charged. Kazakh dish.
• Laghman - a thick noodle dish with meat, carrot and onion, usually served as a soup.Some other veggies could be added too.
• Manty - large steamed dumplings full of meat and onions. Sometimes made with onions or pumpkin. Traditional Uighur dish.
• Plov - wonderful dish of fried rice, meat, carrots, and sometimes other bits such as raisins or tomatoes. Traditional Uzbek dish.
• Shashlyk or Shish Kebab - skewered, roasted chunks of marinated meat, served with some sort of flatbread (usually lavash) and onions. Various marinates can be used, and different ways to cook it, open fire or other.
• Baursaky - bread best served piping hot. A little like an unsweetened doughnut. Kazakh.
• Pelmeni - boiled dumplings made from different kinds of meat or potato. Russian.

If you're a vegetarian, you're probably thinking there's nothing for you in Kazakhstan. And you're right, if you eat out. But if you're cooking your own food, you'll be more than satisfied. Kazakhstan has some excellent products available at little markets everywhere. You will be amazed at the taste and availability of fresh organic veggies at low price! For a treat in Almaty, try Govinda's, a delicious vegetarian Hare Krishna restaurant. Malls have food courts with some vegetarian options too. Even some small Kazakh eateries will prepare vegetarian meals for you if you make it very clear to them (e.g. "byez myasa" (without meat), "ya vegeterianetz" (I [male] am a vegetarian), "ya vegetarianka" (I [female] am a vegetarian) in Russian). At some places (e.g. smak) you can even find vegetarian manty made with pumpkin.

The legacy of Korean resettlement in Kazakhstan means that Korean dishes, particularly salads, are very common. At the country's many bazaars (independent food and goods markets), look for the Korean ladies selling these. They will wrap you up any number of delicious, often spicy and garlicky salads to take away in plastic bags. If you are vegetarian, this may be the only decent thing you get to eat while you're in the country.

On the other hand, in Kazakhstan you can find any dishes you want, but Chinese and Japanese dishes are very expensive. The most delicious is caviar, which is very cheap, you can buy 1 kilo of caviar for less than US$300 in Almaty Zyeloniy Bazaar, but you can't export or take it with you home; you will be stopped at the airport and pay high fines.

Eating out is relatively cheap; you basically order the meat dish and then add rice, potatoes, etc. Each element is priced individually, so you can order for instance only meat or only rice. Prices are relatively cheap, count 500 tenge for chicken, 1,000 tenge for beef, and up to 1,500 tenge for horse, a local delicacy. Of course, the fancier the restaurant, the higher the price. If you don't speak Russian, things are relatively hard as the majority of restaurants don't have English menus (with the exception of some hyped places in Almaty).

While Kazakhs are not very religious, most do not eat pork. Be aware of this if you are dining out with Kazakhs or planning a dinner at home. Also many dishes that are made elsewhere with pork (such as dumplings or sausage) are made with beef or mutton here.

Drink

Kumys looks just like regular milk (this individual brand is from Russia)

Traditional beverages include:

• Kumiss - fermented mare's milk, up to 6% alcohol content. Imagine tart lemonade, mixed with semi-sour milk.
• Kumyran (Shubat)- fermented camel's milk
• Kvas - described as similar to root beer it can be bought in a bottle in a store, or by the cup from people with giant yellowish tanks of it on the street.
• Tan. Fizzy beverage made of mare's milk.
• Cheap alcoholic drinks can be found at every little corner shop (called the astanovka). These places are open 24/7, just knock on their door if the shopkeeper is asleep. Kazakhstan's speciality is cognac, though stores still sell vodka cheaper than bottled water at times. However, some of these astanovka sometimes sell alcohol of dubious origin; for the sake of your stomach you may want to buy your beverage in a supermarket, although the price will definitely be higher.
• Several brands of beer, of good quality and flavor, are made in Karaganda. Becker, Staut, Tian-Shan, Derbes, Irbis, Alma-Ata. Local brands brewed in Almaty are pretty good.
• Juices, in cartons, are common and delicious, especially peach juice.
• Tea is widely available, mostly very good and often quite strong. If you are on a budget this is the thing to order with your food. Tea is culturally important in Kazakhstan - "shai" time is one of the most important things a visitor can engage in to learn about the culture.
• Coffee. Modern coffee houses and western-style cafés are appearing. They serve good coffee. Coffeedelia (Kabanbai batyr and Furmanov) is popular with expats and does OK coffee. One of the best coffee in Almaty can be found at 4A Coffee where they roast their own daily. Gloria Jeans and Marone Rosso also can be found.
• Wine. Try the local variety. A good one can be had for less than US$4 a bottle. "Bibigul" is perhaps the most consistently good wine, and it comes in a semi-dry red or semi-dry white. Avoid drinking wine in restaurants. It's usually very expensive.
• Vodka. Good vodka at US$8–10 per bottle. In restaurants that do not usually cater to foreigners you get 20(!) cl if you order a vodka, smaller servings not available. Buy a bottle of "Kazakhstan" vodka to take back. It is in a pretty bottle with a picture of Kazakh hunting with a falcon seen through a "window". Try Edil vodka, which is made with the pantacrene of local deer antlers.

Sleep

There are numerous hotels, from very cheap ones (€10 per night) to the luxurious ones. You wouldn't find the cheapest ones on the web; the only way to book them is to call directly, but in that case you'll have to speak Russian at the least.

There are almost no camping sites except in Burabay/Borovoe in Kazakhstan. You can, however, camp almost anywhere due to the huge uninhabited spots. The scenery is beautiful but because of the very hot weather: don't forget to take plenty of water with you as you can very easily spend many of days without seeing anybody. If you camp near a nomadic tribe, ask for the permission to stay near; it will not be refused.

Work

Unlike certain European countries still recovering from recession, Kazakhstan abounds in employment or business opportunities. Skilled professionals may be able to find a job in the energy or educational sector. Salaries tend to decrease as the country is working towards ensuring equal pay for locals and expatriate staff. Expatriate candidates must obtain a work permit. It is difficult to get a work permit.

Stay safe

Kazakhstan is a country where the population has a long history of balanced, harmonious, multi-ethnic social interaction, where both guests and locals are treated with respect during everyday life, with certain exceptions (described below in more detail). Visitors will experience hospitality and warmth in this country. However, your personal safety may vary from very safe to relatively unsafe depending on your location, time of the day, circumstances, and your personal behaviour. Unlike in some other former Soviet Union countries, black, South Asian and Middle Eastern people should feel comfortable.

Generally, Kazakh cities are safe during the day, but certain parts of major cities should be avoided at night to reduce risk, namely, all parts of Almaty below Tashkentskaya street and all microdistrict areas within these zones, certain other remote microdistricts, and areas with high concentrations of shabby private houses (such as Shanyrak) and all smaller towns such as Shar, Stepnogorsk, and Temirtau may present a higher risk of mugging and violent crime.

In smaller towns, e.g. Taraz, Balkhash, Shymkent, Taldykorgan, Uralsk, Semey and Ust-Kamenogorsk, going out at night should not present a significant risk, though infrequent muggings do ocur.

Although illegal, prostitution has become widespread in many big cities lately. Usually prostitutes work in hotels, night clubs or saunas. Also, local classified newspapers typically have a whole section dedicated to escort services. Many sex workers in Kazakhstan are in fact from neighbouring less economically developed states such as Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.

Keep your passport (or a certified copy of your passport and visa) with you at all times. While the situation has improved lately, police might still try to extort money from foreigners, especially on trains and long-distance buses. Unless the officers involved are drunk, it is possible to avoid paying them by pretending not to understand, or by claiming poverty.

The risk of violent crime is comparable with Eastern European countries and rougher parts of major US cities. An ordinary tourist should not experience any violent crime and is unlikely to be a target of minor crimes, if their behaviour stays within generally accepted norms in public places.

Dusk in Almaty

Excessive consumption of alcohol and visiting a nightclub will always present a higher risk, especially if a person goes out alone. It is advisable to go out as a group, or even better, with locals. Late at night, people speaking foreign languages may receive extra attention from local police, who have been known to falsely accuse a person of petty crimes, make an arrest, and attempt to obtain a 1,000-5,000 tenge cash payment "fine". Mobile phones work in most places and should be used to call a local-language speaking friend.

A foreign man soliciting a local woman on the streets or in a nightclub may draw unwanted attention from locals, or might result in arguments. Normal western attention and respect for women and children, including a smile or kind greeting, can be taken by a local husband or father as threatening or offensive.

Carrying expensive phones, watches and jewellery; or otherwise demonstrating wealth in public may result in closer attention from pickpockets and potential criminals. Outside Almaty and Astana, this should be avoided.

There is zero tolerance for any drugs, and trace amounts may result in criminal investigation, prosecution and a prison sentence. Prisons are known to be dangerous and often inhumane.

Careless and drunk driving is a problem. It is always advisable to obey traffic rules and wear seat belts. In most cities, using local taxis may present a higher risk than official public transportation due to many taxis operating unlicensed with incompetent drivers. Situations of unlicensed taxi drivers demanding additional fees before releasing luggage from their boot, or driving off and stealing luggage are more common than would be expected in western cities with a well-regulated taxi industry. It's advisable to keep your valuables and passport in your pockets and your most valuable bag on your lap. Public transportation and taxis are much less expensive than in western cities.

Major criminal organisations are active in the Shu valley, between Taraz and Almaty. Locals widely report a heavy police presence, and that corrupt police are known to plant drugs on both local and foreign visitors.

Watch out for food poisoning from shady vendors in smaller towns. In Astana, completely legitimate cafes may include milder drugs in their drinks menu. A misunderstanding can get the unwary traveler lots more than he bargained for.

There have been cases of violence against foreign workers in West Kazakhstan. A housing camp of Turkish workers was destroyed, with many workers assaulted, due to anger about foreigners taking local jobs and an alleged rape of a local woman.

Stay healthy

In general, the level of health care and hygiene is not up to Western standards. When travelling to smaller places, it is a good idea to bring your own medical supplies. There may also be a shortage of medicines.

In an emergency, call an ambulance at the general hospital on duty on 103. However, you should consider using local hospitals.

When travelling to forested and mountainous areas, especially in the early summer months, tick-borne encephalitis should be taken into account. Tuberculosis and HIV are also present in the country. There have been a few cases of Crimean-Congo haemorrhagic fever in South Kazakhstan and cases of Lyme disease in rural areas.

In order to avoid stomach infections and food poisoning, particular attention should be paid to hygiene when preparing food and drinks, especially during the summer months. The municipal water is more or less drinkable, with no real nasties, but try to boil it if possible. Bottled water is cheap and easily available. When at restaurants, ask specifically for Asu, Borjomi, Sary-Agash or Tassay mineral waters. Many other widely-known water brands can be found in restaurants and supermarkets. If you have to use tap water, it is advisable to boil the water before using it.

Travellers should have comprehensive travel insurance, including cover for aircraft evacuation in the event of serious illness or accident. Many hospitals either do not accept international travel insurance at all or only accept it from certain insurance companies. Payment by international credit card is not possible in all hospitals, so payment must be made in local cash (tenge). Before you travel, check with your insurance company which clinic in Kazakhstan you should contact in case of an emergency.

Respect

Kazakh people have more pride than most Westerners would expect. Therefore, insulting or negative comments about Kazakhstan or local Kazakh people will often result in arguments and possible threats of physical violence. It is not recommended to get into an argument with locals, as Kazakhstan is a nation where physical power is part of the local culture, and can occasionally lead to a fatal last argument.

Do not associate the country with Borat. Kazakhs believe the movie misrepresents and defames the country, and are quite tired of hearing of Borat jokes and comments. That aside, the catchphrase "Very nice" was used in a tourism promotion campaign.

Connect

Phone numbers

Kazakhstan has used +7 6xx or +7 7xx as its dialling code (as with Russia), but on January 1, 2023, the country started to progressively switch to using +997. However, the +7 code will still be used (through permissive dialling) until the end of 2024.

Go next

The land border can be crossed to Russia, China, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan. Check the requirements for crossing the border to Turkmenistan. There is a ferry to Azerbaijan.